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Fastwoman sent you a private message, look under your username on the left side MESSENGER & NOTIFICATIONS She can fix global warming.

The one I bought from Nissan was for my 240. I checked MSA and they're no longer available for the '77 & '78s. Maybe you can get yours working if it's stuck.

Look under the back mat by the spare and you'll see a circle with 2 screws, remove it and you'll see the sending unit under there. Short the 2 wires together by connecting the post together with a small wire, your gauge should peg out at FULL if the gauge is working. You can take a screwdriver and hammer and knock the locking ring hold down loose and twist it off, then carefully work the sending unit out. Pull all the way up until the float is at the top of the tank then lay the sending unit horizontal and the float will come out. Be extra careful with it though as it has some fine wires that the float sweeper contact rub against. It may just be stuck, squirt it with carb cleaner and try moving the contact.

I hadn't noticed that guys, thanks! My 240s have looped and the 280 is cut I guess, it looks like fake black fur, all original. I've had it outside under a cover for a month and got in this past Saturday to find some kind of mildew looking stuff lightly covering the carpet on the transmission tunnel to the sides of the shifter. Brushes right off by hand and it was dry as a bone so I don't know what it could be. I guess it's just old and getting grey headed. I wish my grey would wipe out.

Hey, I appreciate that diagram! I had no idea where all those smaller washers went.

I just bought Nissan side seals last week, p/n 12289-W0400. They were $3 The rear main is p/n 12279-2B500. It was $28. Local Nissan dealership got them both in a couple of days. Tom Monroe's book tells how to get those rear caps off pretty easily with a bolt, a piece of wood and something to pry with. When mine was on the engine stand it was simple, is your's in your car? I feel like pulling my hair out with my guy too but I've decided to drive my Camry to Memphis and take my time with the rebuild. He's getting my block done and back to me "ess week sumtime" he says but the head is going to be awhile. So I'll leave him alone, he seems kinda weird anyway.

I've made up my mind to go in comfort, white Camry 4 door. We can use it as a free taxi cab, I'm not drinking and driving so maybe for the brewery crawl we'll need a real cab or a recovering alcoholic with at least a six months chip. I'll post on this site when I get there, maybe even give out my room number or phone number. I'm going Friday, so I'll be there around lunch central time. Have y'all noticed check in's at 3pm central? That's kinda late isn't it? See ya soon, Cliff

I've got the part number for a new nissan fuel sending unit. You'll need a new o ring too, $1 83 I think, you get locally. I paid $48 but I get a discount, haha. I'll post it later if someone else doesn't. Cliff

I just bought 2 sets of carb gaskets from my local Nissan parts guy. Google p/n 16455-H2310 and look at kit. They were $3.65 each. Crush washers, float camber lid gaskets and something else? Cliff

It's easy enough to do yourself if you have a little space. I have never used Por-15 but have heard nothing but good about it. I opted for a less expensive tank liner, Red-Kote. $50 for everything, $30 for quart of the liner, 1 gallon muratic acid and quart of Acetone. A leaf blower helps and empty 5gal buckets, a few. One Saturday morning. It needs to cure though and that's about a week in my opinion, minimum. I'm no expert but I've done a '77 280 and a 240 with good results. Three years on the two eighty and still clear. I'll put up some stuff to read when I get home. Cliff

Like this?

So would the overflows on the lid relieve any pressure he's worried about? Is there a difference in fuel bowl and Float Bowl?

My SUs have a vent nipple on the float chamber lid with a hose that connects to the air filter housing. If I'm thinking right the banjo fittings let the fuel into the float chambers so any pressure should come out that nipple on the lid. I tightened the heck out of mine when I rebuilt them and thinking back there's 2 per banjo bolt, one on each side of the fuel inlet.

It's easier to spell and faster to type. If your tach is acting funny then that very well could be associated with a bad ignition module, or TIU.

If it's leaking coolant above the spark plug at the rear, that's #6, you may have a cylinder head gasket leaking. You could very carefully re torque the head bolts and maybe stop it but if you have to have the head gasket replaced, that is a major job unless you're a mechanic, shade tree even. If I was you I would start a new thread topic on your problem, you'll get more responses. Good story about your history with the Z. Cliff

The distributor is what we call the "dizzy", it has a cap with 6 spark plug wires going around the outside edge and the 1 in the middle goes to the coil (beer can looking thing on the driver's side firewall). Taking the center wire from the distributor cap, HT lead (high tension), and holding it about a quarter of an inch away from something metal it should make a pop sound and you should see a small "lightning strike" from the metal inside the rubber boot to the metal you're holding it next to. Do this in the darkest light you can or you won't see it. If you're feeling sparky, just hold it and let somebody crank over the car. It'll shock the crap out of you, but you'll be okay. The one going off to the right in this picture,

I'm pretty sure the hose from the tank to the pump is 3/8" (10mm), and can be the cheaper low pressure fuel hose. Everything from the output port of the pump is 5/16" (8mm) HIGH PRESSURE for fuel injection, more costly but you've got to have it. You'll see the difference.

You can buy from Advance online then use a coupon code and save some pretty good money. Usually I have it shipped to the store then go get it, quicker. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-or-airtex-electric-fuel-pump-e8312/5772834-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14986%7CL3*15378 Coupon codes; http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

It goes before the pump. Between the tank and the pump. Read this, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Holy moly! The OE pumps are $400 now. I paid $250 for my Bosch a few years ago, now they're Beck Arnely. http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-152-0253-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000CB32QG/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan%7C67&Model=280Z%7C874&Year=1977%7C1977&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive

From the searches I've done, they're all made by these folks; http://www.accmats.com/ Zcarsource is as cheap as anybody else I've found. I don't know about doing the seats yourself, it's pretty involved from what I've read. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44331-diy-how-to-recover-your-z-seats-lots-of-pictures/ I've bought 2 more Zs and the carpet fell to the bottom of the 280s list.

Anybody ever used this stuff?

I've used a siphon gun in the past with coal slag, it gives a rougher finish but works pretty good. It's so damn humid down here the siphon would stop up every other minute. I wanted something a little less abrasive for a smoother look. I'll be clear coating the aluminium parts with a high heat clear from Eastwood Paint and my steel parts with black satin finish. Drive Shaft, transmission mount etc. Arrrghhh Cap'n!!!

If you can drive it and it not feel like the front ends gonna twist off I'd buy it. Those early ones are scarce as hen's teeth. Part it out at the worst. Those holes may be a bargaining point. $5,000 !!!

Have you tried routing your AAR hoses like the later '78s? That made a noticeable difference in warm up on my car. It pretty much did away with the 1200 rpm when cold.