siteunseen

I just bought 2 sets of carb gaskets from my local Nissan parts guy. Google p/n 16455-H2310 and look at kit. They were $3.65 each. Crush washers, float camber lid gaskets and something else? Cliff

It's easy enough to do yourself if you have a little space. I have never used Por-15 but have heard nothing but good about it. I opted for a less expensive tank liner, Red-Kote. $50 for everything, $30 for quart of the liner, 1 gallon muratic acid and quart of Acetone. A leaf blower helps and empty 5gal buckets, a few. One Saturday morning. It needs to cure though and that's about a week in my opinion, minimum. I'm no expert but I've done a '77 280 and a 240 with good results. Three years on the two eighty and still clear. I'll put up some stuff to read when I get home. Cliff

Like this?

So would the overflows on the lid relieve any pressure he's worried about? Is there a difference in fuel bowl and Float Bowl?

My SUs have a vent nipple on the float chamber lid with a hose that connects to the air filter housing. If I'm thinking right the banjo fittings let the fuel into the float chambers so any pressure should come out that nipple on the lid. I tightened the heck out of mine when I rebuilt them and thinking back there's 2 per banjo bolt, one on each side of the fuel inlet.

It's easier to spell and faster to type. If your tach is acting funny then that very well could be associated with a bad ignition module, or TIU.

If it's leaking coolant above the spark plug at the rear, that's #6, you may have a cylinder head gasket leaking. You could very carefully re torque the head bolts and maybe stop it but if you have to have the head gasket replaced, that is a major job unless you're a mechanic, shade tree even. If I was you I would start a new thread topic on your problem, you'll get more responses. Good story about your history with the Z. Cliff

The distributor is what we call the "dizzy", it has a cap with 6 spark plug wires going around the outside edge and the 1 in the middle goes to the coil (beer can looking thing on the driver's side firewall). Taking the center wire from the distributor cap, HT lead (high tension), and holding it about a quarter of an inch away from something metal it should make a pop sound and you should see a small "lightning strike" from the metal inside the rubber boot to the metal you're holding it next to. Do this in the darkest light you can or you won't see it. If you're feeling sparky, just hold it and let somebody crank over the car. It'll shock the crap out of you, but you'll be okay. The one going off to the right in this picture,

I'm pretty sure the hose from the tank to the pump is 3/8" (10mm), and can be the cheaper low pressure fuel hose. Everything from the output port of the pump is 5/16" (8mm) HIGH PRESSURE for fuel injection, more costly but you've got to have it. You'll see the difference.

You can buy from Advance online then use a coupon code and save some pretty good money. Usually I have it shipped to the store then go get it, quicker. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-or-airtex-electric-fuel-pump-e8312/5772834-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14986%7CL3*15378 Coupon codes; http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

It goes before the pump. Between the tank and the pump. Read this, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Holy moly! The OE pumps are $400 now. I paid $250 for my Bosch a few years ago, now they're Beck Arnely. http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-152-0253-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000CB32QG/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan%7C67&Model=280Z%7C874&Year=1977%7C1977&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive

From the searches I've done, they're all made by these folks; http://www.accmats.com/ Zcarsource is as cheap as anybody else I've found. I don't know about doing the seats yourself, it's pretty involved from what I've read. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44331-diy-how-to-recover-your-z-seats-lots-of-pictures/ I've bought 2 more Zs and the carpet fell to the bottom of the 280s list.

Anybody ever used this stuff?

I've used a siphon gun in the past with coal slag, it gives a rougher finish but works pretty good. It's so damn humid down here the siphon would stop up every other minute. I wanted something a little less abrasive for a smoother look. I'll be clear coating the aluminium parts with a high heat clear from Eastwood Paint and my steel parts with black satin finish. Drive Shaft, transmission mount etc. Arrrghhh Cap'n!!!

If you can drive it and it not feel like the front ends gonna twist off I'd buy it. Those early ones are scarce as hen's teeth. Part it out at the worst. Those holes may be a bargaining point. $5,000 !!!

Have you tried routing your AAR hoses like the later '78s? That made a noticeable difference in warm up on my car. It pretty much did away with the 1200 rpm when cold.

It comes with a hood. I chose not to wear it while I was dialing in the settings for the first time. Yesterday I wore the hood and a lightweight pair of summer pajamas. Pretty damn funny looking but it was so much better than the day before. I've still got crusty eyes in the mornings. I've found an eastwood product for raw aluminum, Diamond Clear satin for $40 per quart. 300 degrees. I'm gonna coat everything I blast, claims to be fuel and oil resistant. Thanks for the warnings, silica sand is the worst, I've read about. Cliff

Here's a very good thread on "waking the sleeping beast". http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21063-waking-the-sleeping-beast/ Carl Beck's post #8 Welcome to the forum, sounds like you have a head start already. "Sorry for so beginner questions but I do not want to forget anything and take a risk of doing more harm than good."

Sounds like your aftermarket pump is shot.

Positive is smaller on mine. Just checked.

I bought the one for a four door Camry, it's huge. So at least a size smaller, maybe two sizes?

I been down that road also. I ended up replacing everything except the hard fuel lines from the rear to the engine bay. If bought another one today the first thing I would do is put a clear filter between the tank and the fuel pump. Fram G3s are $3. Here's the details; http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm You'll be able to see if you have particles in there from a trashy tank. You probably need a $10 fuel filter up front behind the radiator on the passenger's side fender too, it can't hurt if you haven't already replaced it.

All you have to do is kick it when it gets low and it'll spray for about another minute, repeat. Mine is new so I can't say what'll it'll do next time but from my experience the last 2 days is that if you fill it half way it'll spray heavy for a few minutes then it starts pulsing for a few more minutes then it's just air, that's when a gentle kick gets it spraying again. I'd say it's about a fourth full or less when you need to start shaking or kicking. Next time I'll tie a rope around my knee and the top handles, sorta like a one man band will do. Mine only needs shaking when it's low on media, but for the price it's not perfect, although I didn't have any "crisis" moments. Results: This is what's left,

You need "atlanticz tech tips". Google it and look under "efi and fuel". I'm using my phone now, sorry I cant link it for you.