siteunseen

I've got 6 that are stamped the same as yours but mine all have "5" instead of "3". I'll look at the main caps for those dots this afternoon, haven't cleaned them yet.

Sometimes the rod needs bending. MSA sells an aftermarket one with a straight rod but the Nissan one I bought, from my local dealership surprisingly, matched the original when I laid them besides each other.

I haven't noticed that on mine, it tightens down really good. Maybe a new rubber seal inside the cap would fix that?

It takes over 3 gallons to get mine to move off empty. I dropped the tank cleaned it and sealed it put in a new sending unit. Had a 2 gallon can I put in and thought the gauge was broken. Added 2 more and it went to 1/4 tank. I fill it completely up too, no problems so far. 5 gallons,

Congratulations! You've "bought the farm" but in a good way. Is that family land or you just got lucky, stocked garage and everything. Probably some "stump broke" horses around if you get bored.

http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/

There's also a wire under the passenger's seat you can unplug to turn off the brake warning light but still allows it to work when your E-brake is up. I did it to my '77. I just remember how I found that info. It connects with a floor temp sensor connector. sblake01 posted it, IIRC.

Is this the car that was recently stolen and found in a field? I might not look too hard for $50K.

I think he's going by a Haynes Manual?

Mine all show 14 volts at the battery when idling. It seems like I've bought them from Advance online with a coupon code for $20, then pick up in store, they keep them on hand. reatailmenot.com has some good codes for Advance.

FI? Programmable I suppose. Works good on race bikes and boats.

Thank you Steve for explaining, I'm intrigued as well. It has less CCs than the E31 I'm working with now. I have an F54 with new .030" over dished pistons. I think the MN47 would make a nice lid for it.

So in your opinion an MN47 is a better choice than a P79? I've got the P79 already and now I'm thinking I want the MN47. It wouldn't need the cutting or the tower shims, right? Thanks, Cliff

You don't have a hood? What's the crud splattered under the ballast resistor?

I see what you did but it's Timbuk3! Smiley face EDIT: I'm a moron! Pretty sneaky Sis! Timbuk3 is a little farther than Timbuk2. You got me Cap'n.

You gotta wear shades!You help the masses. Patience is a true virtue for you sir.

Second that!

Theres 2 of the MN47s at a local junkyard. Are they less work than cutting and shimming my p79? Sorry for not making another thread.

Isn't this him from the recent Wheeler Dealer thread, post #12? http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50923-wheeler-dealers-240z/

Click on this and you'll see.

I was talking to my Dad last night and he said they used to run the piston down 2 or 3 inches then pack the rest of the cylinder with axle grease before tapping out broken head bolts. Same as shaving cream. Here's some good pictures of a factory notch from a Skyline. Post #22 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70734-notchingbevelingbutterfly-l24-block-for-valve-clearance/page-2 Here's where Blue used an MN47 on an L24, post #2 http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50973-24-valve-reliefs/

N47 or MN47 will slightly hit the cylinder wall.

Or, fill the bore with shaving cream. Then wipe it clean with gas.

Everything I've read lately tells me I need an electric pump. The mechanical ones play out above 5,000 RPM but Dizeased (Guy) says all his run fine with the mechanical pump. I'll stick with the mechanical through break-in and just see how it does after I can run it up. A fellow member with the cam I'll be using says his float chambers can't refill fast enough after 5,000 and our cam's peak is 6,600. Decisions, decisions.

Here's where the valves just barely hit the bore. Here's how to fix the problem. But I'm rebuilding so if you want the cheapest way out I'd take the E88 to a machine shop and see how bad it is. Maybe cheaper to fix the E88? Probably needs new valve seats.