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I cut the old one off with a razor knife then wrestled a short piece of 1/2" heater hose on mine. After all I read, I decided to keep the flow through the intake. I think it was the word "stagnant" that made up my mind. How's the one under the thermostat housing looking? May as well change it too.

That second link I posted has all the info on adding a potentiometer to your coolant temp sensor. Look under "EFI & FUEL" Mine was lean so I added the volume knob from Radio Shack and it fixed mine but it did it at all temperatures, cold and hot. Is your accordion rubber boot in good shape? If it's cracked you'll have unmetered air going in the throttle body, maybe making the gargle and popping sound, a vacuum leak. Put a vacuum gauge on it. Have you checked the Throttle Position Switch? It could be out of adjustment or damp inside. You can pop the cover off and roll the throttle rod to see if it comes off low speed contact as you go up in the RPMs, then at high RPMs it should contact the opposite side. I'll quit now, don't mean to throw too much at you all at once and it's beautiful outside. Can't stop, sorry. If it gets worse when it's warmed up it be the cold start valve is stuck open dumping fuel in the intake. Unplug it and see if it still does it.

Did that bad part make your tachometer gauge jump around? When I bought mine that part was hanging outside the distributor and the black wire wasn't connected so I had no tach at all. Grounded the black and it worked, didn't run right but the tach worked. I moved on to a remanufactured ZX distributor with electronic ignition. Not original but it cranks and runs much better.

I've been happy with the Standard FJ707Ts I put in my '77 a few years ago. The original ones had cracked at the pintle end going into the intake manifold. The 707Ts are designed different so that can't happen again. A couple of hours cleaning all of your electrical contacts and grounds is a good start and doesn't cost much. If the ground isn't good the electrical part will overheat. Here's a look at the Zs, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html More information, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html You're going to need to pull the plugs and see how they look, it's like blood work to a doctor, they'll show a lot about how the car is running. Borrow a vacuum gauge from an auto parts store, post the results. Also you need to know your fuel pressure so finding a gauge to borrow or buy would help. Lowes hardware has one that goes on a swimming pool filter that'll work for about $10 bucks. Your pressure should be around 30psi so make sure the gauge is for high pressure, usually 0 to 50psi.

1st page post #7 & #11.

Good luck with that! ::

The cam from Madkaw is a stock used cam, right? I think it would be fine with your stock rockers if they're not galled from the spray bar failure. You could do what Blue has done with a piece of marble and some sandpaper but that would require removing them. Post some pictures if you can. I remember an O-ring around the distributor shaft. I put one under my oil cap too.

Here's another old time company just down the road from me. They have an e-bay store that's a little cheaper. http://www.accmats.com/Commerce/Search.aspx If you'll notice part numbers, there's a lot of middle man profit being made.

He's a scholar for sure, and I'm sure a nice gentleman. Blue's fan club senior member, Cliff. scholar [skol-er] Spell Syllables Synonyms Examples Word Origin noun1. a learned or erudite person, especially one who has profound knowledge of a particular subject.

Advance Auto's coupon code won't work on oil so I'm paying $5.99. Every now and again they have it for $2.50, I'll buy a tanker full next time. NAPA closed a brand new building in my small town. More profit in the real estate I reckon.

^^^^me too^^^^. What he said.

And be ready to drop the sway bar. It gets in the way of dropping the pump. If you used a gasket sealer on the pump you'll probably have to have another gasket if it sticks and tears. A lot's on here about dropping the oil pump, a lot of helpful tricks.

I had thought of running the hose through 1/2" section of PEX. Acid won't hurt plastic I'm guessing as it comes in plastic containers. EDITED FOR DYSLEXIC MIND a section of 1/2" PEX

Is it a 240 pulley? Those marks are confusing. My mechanical timing was off a tooth on the cam sprocket so it ran best all with the distributor turned all the way clockwise. After all the hassle I had, if it runs good just try and quit thinking about it. I got fixated on the timing light lining up right with the pulley marks and wasted a lot of time. BUT, if you want to pull the distributor it should look like this at TDC,

I've never changed a diaper but I imagine it'd be close to M Keaton's style.

Thank you guys, that's what I'll do for now.

Good "supplies" work wonders. A friend of mine bought one of these a couple of weeks ago. He was at a bike rally where it rained the whole time. He decided to set the camper off onto it's legs and drive his truck out from under it to go play. When he got back the camper had fallen over onto his shade tree. Insurance totaled it and paid him off, luckily. Too many "supplies" and not enough sense.

I'd trust a foot of 5/16" hose and some solid fuel injection clamps until I restore the car.

That's what he's staying in, the burnt camper, not the Memphis Hilton. :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::

A little high but they have cheaper ones too. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08e02a01/40-2980

Can I splice that section in or do I have to do the whole thing? It's a nice shade of green/grey everywhere else. Thanks, Cliff

Well I'm thinking of a POR-15 product to seal this section, any other ideas besides new a line?

Do the numbers on the very top's flat spot mean anything like a VIN number? The higher the number, the newer the transmission? I'm taking two to my transmission friend for him to look inside and tell me which one to use so it's more of a curiosity thing to me. The highest number The other one 4spd far left, highest 5spd then lower number 5spd far right Thanks for any replies, Cliff

My '72 240s have the yellow 1 piece wheel chocks. '77 280 has orange collapsible ones.

Nice pictures give me inspiration. Your pictures make me jealous. : )