siteunseen

Mine bolts to the radiator cross member, without any brackets. Here's the microfiche, http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine240Z260Z/Radiator/tabid/1592/Default.aspx If I can take some pictures for you let me know.

He should send him Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild " book, that'd be funny.

The inner gerotor gear is larger for the turbo pump, creating more volume/flow. It's a good upgrade.

The devils in the details. I'd think some young guys would work for free at Rebello Racing.

As much as you've done, I think you should drop the shaft. Not time to start jimmy rigging. When I did my 240 I had to drop the passengers side of the front sway bar. I loosened the drivers side bolts and zip-tied that end, put a small bottle jack on the passengers side and dropped it about a foot. But then again you could swap the wires and hear the thunder.

That last picture looks a lot like a "method" for checking 6 future employees. Hey Rob you're making me jealous you know? I can barely hike up and down my stairs. I've always pulled the coil wire off when adjusting valves. Works as a good theft deterrent too at long term parking lots.

That's Schneider Cams stuff. Its the 270-80F I've never been down this path before so I thought I try and stay on the cheaper side. Time will tell.

Still feeling like crap but this made me feel a little better. We've had some bad weather so UPS has been 2 days behind but Saturday around lunch I got my regrind and the components that go with it. I must say they ground it down to nothing! $400 for everything, regrind, springs and retainers and .190" lash pads.

I'll be anxiously waiting for the cause, if it's obvious, I put those in my '77 a couple of years ago as well. When you get the bad one off you can test it's flow on your workbench according to this video. Mine were Standard FJ707Ts with an open style pintle instead of the little hole.

I did disassemble a ZX with a 5 speed last summer so that could be the one with the circle. The triangle one is off a '72 4 speed I took apart last week, it was still in the pile of parts to be cleaned. Sorry for any confusion.

Here's the different plates. Automatic on the left. EDIT: I'm pretty sure, not 100% positive. I have a few and that was the only different looking one so I assumed it's off an automatic motor i bought a while back.

My J bolt hooks into one of the bottom front facing holes in the base like Dennis says. The top of the battery's bracket, opposite of the J bolt, screws into the firewall. All nice and tight. The only thing than I worry about is the draining tube comes loose from the bottom tray. I've used zip-ties before but this time I'll use to twisted wire. I'm scared it has ruined my fuel lines under there with rust.

I carry mine lunch on the Saturdays he has to work. They take turns, part numbers only two Saturdays, figure something out the other two from 30 year man.

That sounds like lingerie instead of car parts.

Carlin's seven, $^!#, wizz, ****, c***, ****sucker, mother****er, and tits. Works good!

Same here, older is better! Usually if Courtesy can get something my local parts guy can get it. Try this number, 16455-H2310 Here's some valve numbers I found too, 16101-10400 & 16101-25610

My Grandad used to use a set of pliers to pull the skin off a catfish, they don't have any scales, and it peels right off. It's hard to imagine the size those things get to be, I've personally seen one 4 feet long that weighed 75 pounds. It's mouth was the size of a football.

Or back in the olden days when people trapped for a living there was more than one way to skin a Bobcat?

That's good to know, thanks. I haven't forgotten about the temp reading for my 280 Leon, it's been cold down here. I did see, while looking for a part number in it's file, there's a 165 degree thermostat in that car. I'll get to it soon though, I'm curious myself because it's recently been rebuilt versus the 240, 43 years ago.

I read something the other day about putting aviation gasket maker on the threads of the head bolts to keep coolant from settling down there and crudding up the threads. Has anybody else heard of such? I know anti-seize will affect the final torque reading but what about aviation sealer?

Will his passing effect/affect the value of his cars like a painters does a painting? Surely if one had his signature.

5 long ones on front of cam towers manifold side. 9 everywhere else on the head deck. The turbo bolts will have a small 13 stamped on top of the head of the bolts.

I have to try this. My assistant assumed he was an arse. Yes my mouth has been washed out with soap.

I've finally found something I can go by, thanks Phred. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/29237-question-on-modified-e31-head/

I didn't understand why I should take hot showers in the middle of the night but I do now! My shower will need Rotor-Rootering now for all the phlegm. You're advice is spot on, as usual.