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I'll be anxiously waiting for the cause, if it's obvious, I put those in my '77 a couple of years ago as well. When you get the bad one off you can test it's flow on your workbench according to this video. Mine were Standard FJ707Ts with an open style pintle instead of the little hole.

I did disassemble a ZX with a 5 speed last summer so that could be the one with the circle. The triangle one is off a '72 4 speed I took apart last week, it was still in the pile of parts to be cleaned. Sorry for any confusion.

Here's the different plates. Automatic on the left. EDIT: I'm pretty sure, not 100% positive. I have a few and that was the only different looking one so I assumed it's off an automatic motor i bought a while back.

My J bolt hooks into one of the bottom front facing holes in the base like Dennis says. The top of the battery's bracket, opposite of the J bolt, screws into the firewall. All nice and tight. The only thing than I worry about is the draining tube comes loose from the bottom tray. I've used zip-ties before but this time I'll use to twisted wire. I'm scared it has ruined my fuel lines under there with rust.

I carry mine lunch on the Saturdays he has to work. They take turns, part numbers only two Saturdays, figure something out the other two from 30 year man.

That sounds like lingerie instead of car parts.

Carlin's seven, $^!#, wizz, ****, c***, ****sucker, mother****er, and tits. Works good!

Same here, older is better! Usually if Courtesy can get something my local parts guy can get it. Try this number, 16455-H2310 Here's some valve numbers I found too, 16101-10400 & 16101-25610

My Grandad used to use a set of pliers to pull the skin off a catfish, they don't have any scales, and it peels right off. It's hard to imagine the size those things get to be, I've personally seen one 4 feet long that weighed 75 pounds. It's mouth was the size of a football.

Or back in the olden days when people trapped for a living there was more than one way to skin a Bobcat?

That's good to know, thanks. I haven't forgotten about the temp reading for my 280 Leon, it's been cold down here. I did see, while looking for a part number in it's file, there's a 165 degree thermostat in that car. I'll get to it soon though, I'm curious myself because it's recently been rebuilt versus the 240, 43 years ago.

I read something the other day about putting aviation gasket maker on the threads of the head bolts to keep coolant from settling down there and crudding up the threads. Has anybody else heard of such? I know anti-seize will affect the final torque reading but what about aviation sealer?

Will his passing effect/affect the value of his cars like a painters does a painting? Surely if one had his signature.

5 long ones on front of cam towers manifold side. 9 everywhere else on the head deck. The turbo bolts will have a small 13 stamped on top of the head of the bolts.

I have to try this. My assistant assumed he was an arse. Yes my mouth has been washed out with soap.

I've finally found something I can go by, thanks Phred. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/29237-question-on-modified-e31-head/

I didn't understand why I should take hot showers in the middle of the night but I do now! My shower will need Rotor-Rootering now for all the phlegm. You're advice is spot on, as usual.

That's great news, now something positive is happening. Is this the "nail in the coffin" for DP,LLC?

They don't have Grose jets anymore, or at least I didn't get them a couple of months ago with my rebuild kit. Seems like I googled them and they're not made anymore. The ones now look like OE Nissan but with a skinnier pin, they look like valve stems without the hat. More like these, no ball bearing.

I figured out the other day while cleaning up my mess in the garage and stuffing another motor in there that I have a ready to go .030" over bored F54. It came with that persimmons and white 240 I bought. It was a guys project, he needed some money and sold it. It's got new dished pistons though so I'm going to get some flat ITMs and put a P79 that I have and do that build Dizeased does. I want to keep my orange car on the safe side and dependable. It's going to have the E31 that was part of the guys project and a medium cam, slightly notched block for the bigger valves. That's the plan.

Well my larger exhaust valves hit on 2.4 block. The intakes barely squeeze by. Maybe I'll do both but that would make my combustion area bigger resulting in less compression, know?

Well here I am again reading the intakes need notching. Which is it?

Mine was lean and ran bad upto 2,500 rpms, bucking and sputtering, then it would start pulling. The adjustable potentiometer made it behave throughout the rpms. A mechanic friend told me that clamping the return line built up more fuel pressure and made it run better, he said I needed a adjustable fuel pressure regulator. But that wasn't the case and saved me about $145.

That sucks. Maybe it'll be okay but the 2.8 wouldn't bother you would it?