siteunseen

That sucks. Maybe it'll be okay but the 2.8 wouldn't bother you would it?

Here's a remanufactured one from O'reilly's http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDF0/M23049/02535.oap?year=1973&make=Nissan&model=240Z&vi=5142641&ck=Search_C0401_5142641_-1&pt=C0401&ppt=C0025

Boy oh boy do I feel bad. Whole body ache, my head's worse. 102 temperature this morning. I know I'm sick when I don't even want to read classiczcars.com.

So the lash pad is measured from the recess of the valve tip? Good to know I've been wrong all along saying mine were .160s. Schneider says I'm getting .175 -.190s with my regrind. I've learned a lot through this thread, thanks Geoff. Check Schneider. Thats where msa gets their cams and componets. Might save some you money.

I considered cutting the acuator arm with bolt cutters to get the pump out. Rebuilding it on the car would be awesome if you could do it.

Proof that most anything Japanese last much longer than American. 105 years old, wow.

I bought some 15x7 Konigs with hankook 205/50-15 that are fantastic on my 240. No rubbing and leaves the car lower to the ground.

That potentiometer trick made mine my '77 run better than anything. $5 at radio shack wired into the cabin for fine tuning. Now to measure the resistance and get one you have to adjust with a small screwdriver for the permanent fix.

Mine has the same Yorx A/C system. It's a pain alright. I just woke up so I'm still a little fuzzy headed but here's what I remember. There's a bottom bracket going to the motor mount that I took loose so the compressor can fall back and down. Loosened the alternator too, took the bottom radiator hose off just so I'd have some room. You'll have to unbolt those 4 bolts holding the bracket to the head and hopefully you can pull it back far enough to get the old one off. Be careful that you don't break the inspection light's cover. If you put a socket on the pulley's nut and turn it one way (can't remember which way) it should loosen the A/C belt so you can get it out of the way. Be careful not to break the insulator in between the pump and the head, you'll need to take it off too, there's gaskets that go in between the insulator and the head then one between the pump and the insulator. I can't remember the process exactly, just bits and pieces. It'll take a some time if you're not familiar with it, like I wasn't. Just start taking stuff loose and you'll figure it out. You might want to take the valve cover off and pull the actuator back and forth by hand to make sure it is bad. I replaced mine not knowing that my fuel tank was full of crud and was causing the fuel problem. Get a gas can and put it in front of the radiator, run your supply and return into it and see what happens. You may have the same problem I had, it runs good with the gas can then I hook everything back up and stall out just a couple of miles from home. You could also buy/borrow a $20 electric pump and see. 3.5 psi for our carbs. I'm rebuilding my motor right now and all that A/C stuff is in a box where it will stay, it still worked but you can't hardly find R-12 anymore so it's not going back on. I'll just be hot. Here's current thread on rebuilding the original pump, I have the cheap stamped one from chain auto parts. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/30761-rebuild-a-240z-mechanical-fuel-pump/#entry463989

Thanks for that article (pictures). That 1st orange one would be what mine looked like when new, minus the rocker stripes.

I know it's for wood but Murphy's Oil Soap works great on my cars interior. It's a mild soap and leaves a nice smell. Simple Green for the tough stuff.

Lumosity wants money, you are helping me for free.

Thanks guys. I always forget the simplest things, I have 12 intake valves in a coffee container. I put them in my bare N47 and put that on top of my 2.4 without a head gasket. They dropped and hung up on the carbon ring at the top of the bore, barely tapped them and they fell through. Then I put a used gasket on and they fell through as soon as I let the clothes pins loose.

Can someone PLEASE set me straight on which valves need extra clearance on an 83mm bore. How to modify says on page 15, "When 35mm exhaust valves are used on engines with 83-85mm bores and high lift cams, the bores must be relieved, or notched, in the area of the exhaust valves". I've read a lot about the intake valves hitting. So which is it? Both? Thanks for any input, Cliff

That's my favorite Led Zeppelin song! EDIT! One of my favorites, The Ocean's pretty good too, it be easier to name their bad ones than the good. I can't even think of one right now but I'm about to crank up Nobody's Fault RIGHT NOW. My neighbors are at work, work's for suckers. Na na na na na nobody's fault but my-eeeine

Listen to this noisy N42 on "another happy customers" car.

Holy guacamole! I've been focusing on the exhaust valves but it's actually the intakes that will hit. Thank goodness I did that to a spare block. I'll get the intakes out and see where they hit. I almost stepped in a big ole pile of doo doo.

Nissan has the turbo head bolts for less money, $60 for mine locally. PNs Nine of the shorter ones 11056-P7600 Five of the long ones 11059-P7600

I've got an E31 with exhaust valves for a N head, which are larger and just barely hit the edge of the bore. From zhome.com E31 HEAD '70-71 240Z This head has a 9:1 compression ratio. The quench area is the best of the Z heads with the exception of the P79. As stated before 280 valves are an easy installation and recommended. A note of caution here , however, if the 280 valves are used with a stock 240 or 260 bore ( they're the same) you will need to notch the block for the intakes. They JUST touch and make a hell of a noise ( take my word on this I know). If an oversize bore is used here then clearance is not a factor ( even a .010" overbore will do). This is considered by many to be the "best" head because of the "better" quench area and higher compression. I can't decide which to do here. Please advise me somebody (named Steve).

I read some good stuff last night about Grant's C1297 rings, they could be the ones for me.

I'm not sure what you're speaking of but maybe this will help some how, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45387-what-to-do/ Grannynot's post #12

My Nissan Dealership can't get rings, Courtesy doesn't have them either. So where are y'all getting these Nissan rings?????

Well I have an idea of what to do. I took a bare N47 and put the exhaust valves in held up by clothes pins then chucked them to a drill and spun some marks on there. Then I used a pink grinding stone that came with my Dremel. One or two I'm not happy with but I'll get more practice tomorrow.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/There%27s_a_sucker_born_every_minute