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I have some Swiss made dial calipers from this construction company I used to work for with the depth feeler that comes out the end. Similar to these below. I must have rolled that thing a mile inside my garage! The lowest number I got was 1.060". That's from the plug thread beginning to the top of the piston. I am going to get to TDC and reclock the distributor and oil pump spindle again. When I put in that ZX distributor when I first bought the car I got in a hurry to get it running, a mistake I will try and correct. Thank you all for your help. Cliff

I see exactly what you are saying now. Two wheels turning the same direction, one pulls one pushes, that's why I can turn the cam backwards to get a tight straight side. Like one side of an all wheel drive car.

OK I'm assuming you mean the passengers side rear tire not the front tire. I put 2 drinking straws together and rotate that tire until the straw kinda "hoovers" in place. I'm going to get to work now, I'll post some pictures for reassurance.

I'm going to get to TDC via the crank nose then adjust the cam sprocket window until it lines up with the dowel plate mark. Whu pea! I've got a plan. Thank you for your help and I'll figure out how to multi quote when I'm done working on the Z.

There's my problem!!!! I've got the Yorx A/C with the compressor mounted on the passenger's fender and that big old bracket with a belt and pulley. Probably an inch and a half of space to get to the crank nose, so I have to do it from the bottom side. I've been turning the cam with Vise Grips to get TDC. I finally see that the cam doesn't have rods connected to it and the #1 piston! Pulled my head out of my rear end and now I can see. thank you Blue, I'll figure out some way. maybe pulling the ZX shroud off the radiator, DUH, will give some room.

Yes it makes sense, thank you for taking the time to explain. My only question is this "turn the crank pulley clockwise (tensioning the straight side of the chain) until you hit tdc, or turn the cam counterclockwise (again, tensioning the straight side of the chain)" I'm pretty sure my crank and cam turn in the same direction, towards the driver's fender, but I'm not so sure of anything these past few days. Thank you again RossiZ.

Does rotating the cam backwards to get TDC, causing slack on the drivers side, have any effect on the actual top dead center? Sounds like a no brainer question but I'm not positive about it. Thanks Cliff

Thank you for this information. I wrote it all down and finally called yesterday. Had a great conversation with Jackson, very friendly and he didn't seem to mind talking on the phone. I'll be driving over soon with a hatch (hopefully) or a trunk full of cylinder heads to come up with the best plan. Thanks again, Cliff

After packing all his suede shoes where you gonna sit, on the hood ornament? I believe there's an airport in Memphis, what about Phillie?

You! Truck stop (my s2000)

My teaching was to adjust the dizzy until it was the "smoothest" idling and sounding then back up a few degrees. Anyway, I really want a fresh motor and clutch and I've got the rest of winter to do it right. The car looks good, now I want it to be dependable. Next month it'll be 43 years old.

I've been down that road! But I'mma too stewpid when I'm in a hurry. After Zed Head put up this pic from the FSM, I quit trying. I need a reason to put a new clutch in and it has presented itself, REBUILD TIME. My Dad always said timing lights are worthless on worn motors, I believe him now.

When I put the ZX distributor in I ran into this same thing. Mine's about 30 minutes fast, high noon when it should be 11:25. I pulled off the pump and tried getting it right without any luck. It's all relative.

Looking at his car I think I'll switch from Bud Light to Bunny Luv while wrenching.

How much is registration and what is it for? Can I not just get a room and walk around?

Got a late Christmas present put on today.

I put a scratch mark across all 3 grooves to watch and see if they separate. I just drove it and it's not even noticeable from what it did before. But the clutch is going out and I really want the 5 speed so I'm gonna drive it until I can get the E31 head ready and just rebuild the motor. What do you all think about my plugs? Should I go 1/4 turn richer? thanks again, Cliff

It's at number 1 on the sprocket. After making new zero mark at 850 it reads 22 on the light. That's at the new TDC spot. 2500 rpm reads 40 at the new TDC mark. I'm done and the dizzy is all the clockwise. Test drive next.

I've got those questions now. It's seems the rotor button has passed #1 at TDC. The 0 degree notch has passed the pointer at TDC. My plugs are light brown on one side. #1 is at the right, #6 far left and white on the other Does that mean anything? Maybe it's a little lean? I'm going to paint that dot BeerManPete said to do now and maybe in a couple of hours I'll be able to get the thermostat to open without dieing of carbon monoxide poisoning and recheck the timing. Thanks again for the help! Cliff Well hell I forgot to say my understanding to see if it jives with the issue. I've got it so advanced the spark has happened before TDC. The reason that happened is the 0 degree notch isn't lined up with the pointer for whatever reason, likely the pulley as it has the forward most groove for the A/C belt and by the time it gets to the timing marks it has slipped/moved. If I paint the dot at TDC I can time it correctly and the explosion will occur at TDC???

Thanks for the replies guys. Number 1 piston is at TDC, it went up then back down so I pulled the cam back a hair and it hits that spot where it just kind of "floats", no movement. I can't get a good shot of the timing mark on the pulley, I hate that A/C compressor mounted on the passenger's side behind the fuel pump, the belt and pulley make it almost impossible to do anything. I did notice something good when I removed the valve cover, it was like the Exxon Valdez had ruptured on top of the head. It has an aftermarket spray bar just like another E88 head I have that has been reconditioned, so I'm pretty sure the valve stem seals have been upgraded. I've just turned my heater on downstairs. When it gets warmer I'll take more photos, rotor position and I'll try my best to get a shot of the pointer and 0 degree notch. I understand now about the sprocket being ahead of the mark on the dowel plate, thank you Zed Head. I'm off work today and am not planning on leaving so I'll have plenty of questions and pictures for y'alls review later in the day. It's a Bloody Mary morning!!

OK, problem has been found, SEVERELY RETARDED. I knew the moment I saw this car we were meant to be together. We have a lot in common. The vin number starts with my birth year and it's just like a model car I've had since I was a kid. Oh and it's retarded too. I'll put it back together tomorrow and do a commpression check to decide if moving the sprocket ahead to #3 will be good enough. I'd just as soon pull the motor and rebuild it, reinstall with a new clutch and a fifth gear. The clutch is shot anyway and I don't want to drive to Memphis in 4th gear. What do you all think? Number 1 plug looks good,

We used three tennis ball cans tapped together when I was a kid then as a "grown up" we made potato cannons out of PVC pipe. Progression! As an adult (hehehe) we filled a large trash bag with Acetylene from a friends welding business then tied 5 or so feet of toilet paper around the tied off bottom of trash bag for the fuse. We should have used 20 feet and got the hell out of there. Scared the crap out of us! Somebody called the police department to report an explosion, they laughed when they finally found out it was the welding shop. Dry ice in a 20oz bottle with about a half cup of water is a pretty good crack but that bag of acetylene was a real surprise. It was like a bomb had gone off, never did that again. In the old days they made those fire balloons by folding the corners of newspaper and setting them on fire and they would float off, that caused a huge fire in New York back then, I read somewhere. We took Dry Cleaners bags and made hot air balloons by making an X out of cattail stems and molding aluminium foil around the bottom of a cup for holding Ronsonol lighter fluid for the heat. Awe man I miss those days. Kids now days, I have four nephews within 7 years of each other , that have to get there dad to put the chain back on there bikes but he's so stupid he won't tighten the thing. Oh god I just thought about Mumbly Peg!! I'll quit now. Ashtray trivia? I've got pictures but as usual "1st Mate Oblivious" can't keep up with "Captain Obvious", very confusing. But I do have some pictures to look at. First is the 280 ashtray in the 240. next is the 240 ashtray in the 280, fits good

But I'm a little obsessive

That link didn't show a filter, just JC Whitney's home page. Here's what mine have, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MGD0/33087/02515.oap?year=1972&make=Nissan&model=240Z&vi=5142640&ck=Search_02515_5142640_1149&pt=02515&ppt=C0359 first, then I use these before the pump. then these before each carburetor,

It's not normal and any fuel leak could pose a fire risk. You either have a cracked fuel filter or split fuel line. Take the line off and cut it back an inch then stick it back on. Tighten the clamp. If it still drips your filter is cracked. most likely the clamp cut into the fuel line