siteunseen

I'm paid up now. $275 for 2 nights. When I went to register for the event I realized all the fun stuff is earlier in the week so I passed on that. $100 registration fee to save $20 on room rates and a T-shirt, no thanks, I'm in the middle of a rebuild.

Nights 17 & 18 Leaves the morning of 19th I'll have my single king size room if anybody needs to store some booze. We'll have wi-fi so it'll be easy to meet up.

I'm sorry. You've already told that.

Okay, now I'm curious. I've watched a lot of television and movies in my life and have a pretty good memory but some things don't click right away when I have something on my mind. Blazing Saddles, Caddyshack, The Jerk and The Holy Grail were what grew up with. "the way y'all are lollygagging around here you'd think it was a hunnert and semteen degrees. Can't be but a hunnert and twelve."

Everything I've found says that is for the 86mm bore, '75 and up. I'm going to stay with Felpro 21157.

Blazing Saddles!

I'm glad I'm not the competitive type, you've set the bar waaaay too high. That head looks fantastic. It's going to be funny at ZCON when I get out of a taxi. ::

I quit reading zcar.com when a frequent poster that blasted anybody that asked for help wanted donations from the other members to get married.

Thank you but now that I have the right number, thanks to you again, I can get one off ebay.

Did you get from Nissan? That number pulls up a Stone head gasket, https://www.google.com/shopping/product/8378151245351200285?q=11044-N4221&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&es_sm=93&biw=1280&bih=620&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.85970519,d.cWc&tch=1&ech=1&psi=lT3dVL_wKYHlsATY-IGgDA.1423785404346.3&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX5O9VNp-yd1A31oVOCimKzn5Vc6hLE8PQeZHOGuaaNu0mF02LHRakR2mjV6BfdJyu3CDLKgj62OPpLfV_fZ-7LiuwOKvF7st68vc9Ln-NNCo04GteBIZAFPVH72aasqR_DSQz4_DFuuy4ORb8gzh6Q&ei=vD3dVLKlCKG_sQTStYDICA&ved=0CE4QpiswAA I want one!!!

Boy this is a lot easier than before, I'm learning something I guess. It'd be hard not to when I check in with you all everyday. The head has been off before for sure, I guess for the steel valve seats? and a newer style spray bar. It has big phillips head screws in the bottom holes so I guess it's a multi car type. It looks good too. The head gasket has overly large fire rings so I guess it's for a 86mm bore, it has a copper coating on both sides too. The only 2 bolts I broke were the 2 holding the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. I drained the radiator and only got a little over a gallon last Sunday. Today I removed that plug at the back of the block and got a GUSHER of coolant, at least a gallon maybe more, I'll have a catch pan next time. Cylinder walls are as slick as glass, so standard size rings will work fine hopefully. 280Z, 1st rebuild worried me sick and took 6 months. This 240Z will be done in a third of that time and done right, blue block not bar-b-q grill black paint. All the topside is done, tomorrow will be the exhaust pipe then the transmission. Saturday the blocks coming out and apart. Then clean, clean and some more cleaning.

I'll eat bologna the rest of my life, I guess. I could cut them little slits in it to keep it from curling up and have seared bologna steaks. Enough alcohol and some A-1 and it'll taste like a ribeye.

Thank you sharing that. I started my hunt last night and wasn't able to talk with my Nissan parts until this a.m. I gave him #12203-E3100 and he said it had been superseded with 12033-A8620 (I'm pretty sure that's the number) and googled it for me. Said it popped up as a Grant chrome ring. Are your's chrome? Parts guy said OE was chrome from Nissan. I've read that a new cylinder wall works good with chrome but molly was a better choice for a slight honing like I'll have to get. Maybe they have come up with a better seating chrome ring? I just looked at your link, thanks again, and they have chrome and plain for the 83mm bore. I wonder what plain is? EDIT: Okay, looking at how cheap the price is for the "plain" I'll say they're cast iron

They buy them and then park them. We're rich in a different way, the Z life. I'm eating bologna sandwiches instead of ribeyes so i can spend the money on my 240.

Anyone have a recommendation for a set of rings? Like everything else, there's too many choices on the internet. I've found Sealed Power and Hastings have a set of premium rings, moly faced. Has someone recently purchased a set for 83mm bores? Thanks for any help, Cliff

That's great you found it! I can only imagine the smile on your face driving that sharp car home from Texas. Very good looking car. You'll see most folks on here won't take the time to bash people with common questions, when it takes longer to gripe than just typing something that might help, that's pretty stupid.

I'd go ahead and get the metal filter up front too, cover all your bases. That drive from Texas could have pulled enough debris to clog it up even though it is new. A member on here cut one in half and found the cheaper ones had paper filtering element come loose and folded up into itself. i can't remember if the WIX brand was the good one or the bad one? That fuel pump filter Blue's talking about is inside the "inlet port" of the Bosch OE pump. Take the hose coming from the tank to the pump off and you'll see it. It's small and cone shaped. Post #5, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/27140-strainer-in-fuel-system-78-280z/ Good luck and lets see the car.

That's great news. We're ahead of the trend. I've got two I'm hoping to keep until I'm unable to work on then sale someday. My nephews may get them if they turn out to be good kids and help their poor old uncle. 8 )

Good news! I went to my Dad's machinist and he knew exactly what I was talking about. He told me I may need tower shims to get the wipe perfect. I have an extra 2.4 block that I'll do the notching to and keep the numbers matching motor OE, rebuild it later on. When I walked in he slid his glasses down on his nose and says "well I'll be damn, there's Marvelous Jr." my Dad's name is Marvin, I haven't seen that man in at least 20 years. Another funny thing he said was "I thought all those old L heads were scrapped by now". One more thing Steve"madkaw" brought up that he knew about was notching blocks. He said he makes templates out of cardboard with the HG when he notches blocks so he doesn't ruin the HG. So YES, other blocks need notching too, thank you Steve. Looks like I'm following in your footsteps I feel so much better now I'm going to have a couple of beers and run over the dog poo and onions in my yard, with my mower of course. I'll get back to the motor removal tomorrow, the weather is going to turn cold again. Thanks again guys, y'all are the best!

That's a good looking car. The first 240 I've seen with 280 hubcaps.

I'll have to share this with you guys and see what you all think. I'd thought I found a L series machine shop in North Georgia. The late John Williams had his shop located behind theirs, or vice versa, they built a shop in front of Mr Williams's place. It's all up around Road Atlanta race track. Two guys but only one talks on the phone, he says you need to talk to the other guy but he's never there or in the bathroom or on the roof, blah blah blah. I called Monday to ask if they would notch my block for me. The phone guy says that sounds crazy as hell but he'd ask the other guy and call me back. When he called back the other guy had said that I shouldn't have put larger valves into my E head, I told him it was a very common mod and that I had bought it that way. Then I remembered reading the 2.6 blocks were notched from the factory so that bothered me too. Then he say's I'll need .150" lash pads for proper geometry. Schneider told me that I would get .175" with my cam kit because they REMOVE material resulting in the need for thicker pads. So that's 3 things that got me to wondering how many L heads they do. I called my Dad for some reassurance, he's a simple kind of guy in the best way, love that man. He say's that getting the geometry right isn't as hard as I think and his favorite machinist could do it easily. I read where Madkaw notched his own block and looked at tons of pictures, I can do it myself. So the question is, I have chosen the cam and the cam company myself, they'll send everything I need, the head has new valves and stems already. I can get a local guy to take it apart and lube everything up (it's been in a bag for 5 years at least) put it back together with the new springs and retainers that are coming with the cam. New valve stem seals most likely, they've not had oil on them. Center the wipe pattern and give it a try. 15 minute drive compared to 2 1/2 hour drive. Telling my local shop what I want or having the out of state shop tell me what they want? If you read this THANK YOU for your time and your opinion. Cliff

After reading Dogmas procedure I decided that it's just as easy to replace the hoses and keep it as it was designed.

I've always thought the cam towers follow the cam.

Finally getting down to the motor. Hood is under one bed, radiator under another. Carbs are on an extra intake mounted to a wall. Everything is coming off pretty easy so far, exhaust manifold is going to be a booger. I'm getting a friend to come by today and suck the R12 out of my A/C, don't know if I'll be putting all that mess back on. MSA's got a free shipping deal through the 16th so I'll order my exhaust in the next couple of days. Oh my aching back!

I have a N42 head with only the internal oiling cam and towers. I bought it that way and was worried because there was no spray bar like all the other N42s I'd seen. Worried for no reason, that thing floods the valve train with oil. I cut the handle off a long screwdriver and chucked it into my drill to spin the oil pump. It was set to the higher speed and shot the oil out of the cam, beyond the cylinder head. I switched it to the lowest speed for this picture.