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I have spent time and money to get mine looking good enough to drive out and about. So I was so proud going to get some groceries in my new/old car. Put all the stuff in the hatch then went to unlock the driver's door. Stiff as hell and I didn't want to break the key in the door so I started to climb through the hatch to unlock the driver's door when the security guard came up and ask what I was doing! He thought I was breaking into the car. Showed him how my key operated the hatch lock and offered to show my drivers license when he started to smile and said he knew it was my car he was just busting my balls. So that's what I'll try and fix tomorrow. Always something to "fix" with these cars.

Ahhhhh...last night...

You may need a new slave cylinder? Or bleed out the air?

If you remove the ashtray you should be able to hold the assembly with your hand and move the choke lever. That's how I've been doing mine since I broke the plastic mounts under the console. I've got one of these, just haven't had the time to install it. http://datsunpartsllc.com/cart/index.php?p=product&id=225&parent=5 If your chokes aren't moving your nozzles on the bottom of the carbs could be stuck, happened to a set I have.

It amazes me that a pulley on front of a crank on a motor turning 2,500 RPMs is completely frozen to my eyes. It's an eerie feeling for sure. Thanks everybody for helping me realize how little I know.

So 10 btdc would be 27 degrees at 2500rpm? Set the dial to 27 and it should hit on the third mark on the pulley. First mark is 0 2nd is 5 and third is 10 degrees? I'll try that. I got the carbs perfect and then put the filter housing back on and dropped 200 rpms damn it! I'm gonna through in the towel for today and watch some football. Happy New Year everybody. cliff

By the time I paid shipping to New York all I got back from rockauto.com was $14 on a $29 core charge.

I've got a new timing light with the advance feature. From what I've read I'm thinking that if I dial in the advance such as 10 degrees, the pulley mark should line up on 0. Is that right? With the advance feature you don't use the 5 degree increments, just the 0 mark. Right??? Thanks for any replies, Cliff

Are your valves adjusted properly? It helps a lot.

Google that part number for prices.

Could be rich on the carbs. Burns off the plugs and runs better. Take the plugs out and see if they're dark. Might need to lean the mixture knob a hair. Weather change could cause this.

Those look like MSA's. Are they? I sure hope not as I have a box full.

My '77 280 does too.

I carry him a grilled cheese with a couple of chicken fingers on it all the time, our restaurant is right next door and I'm a suck arse.

Fuel pressure for sure. There's some video on another thread about Hitachis right now, you should watch it until you get the Ztherapy DVD. Or you could try running it with a fuel can, bypassing a possibly crudded up fuel tank. Put a 2 gallon gas can in front of the radiator then put the fuel lines in it. The other end of the one going into the pump and the small return line coming off the rail. Ah hell I just realized it runs it just has to have starting fluid to get there. My bad, just woke up.

That's some nice shop clothes there, jacket and cuff links.

I think you have the clockwise and counter clockwise backwards. "Righty tighty" all the way up then "lefty loosey" 2.5 turns down. Simplier, turn them towards the cylinder head until they stop, then turn them towards the fender 2.5 turns. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39221-quick-and-dirty-su-tuning/

I painted mine black and tried to remove that red sticker from the original and glue it on but it tore before I got it all. Mine came from rockauto.com though but I'm really starting to like O'Reilly's.

I was about to pull my hair out trying to find the 9mm wide wipers 18" long. On my way to Walmart I stopped at O'Reilly's. After looking at EVERY 18" they had a young man ask if I needed any help. I explained how I'd have to buy the "dumbed down" wiper assembly and remove the rubber to keep my original look. He went behind the counter and came back with the exact size refills only. Trico 44-180, $6.99 for both! Don't understand why they are hidden but I don't care now that I know. O'Reilly's also has the clear plastic fuel filter for $3.49. They are 240Z friendly. Monday I was about to order the K&N air filter for my 240, $55 at amazon.com. On a whim I called my Nissan parts buddy. This morning he called and said I had an OE filter waiting on me, $15.

Thank you for that. I hate the way the generic UFO looking one I had to get looks. Where did you find that new pump? Do you have a Nissan number? Thanks, Cliff

Here's the part number for those small rivets, 79909-E4100. About $10 at your Nissan dealer for a pack of 10. There's 2 behind the tag and 4 or 6 up top.

Hey that's a good idea! Our SUs have vents on top of the float chambers you could pour gas in somehow I suppose. Could he shoot starter fluid in the mouths of the carbs? Maybe raise the piston a little and open the butterflies with the linkage? You should have a fire extinguisher or a hose pipe ready just in case things get away from you. Maybe buy a low pressure, low price electric fuel pump? I think Purolator has a square one for about $20. I've used them on boat motors.

I use acetone and ATF 50/50 mix in a spray bottle, it works great for me and is inexpensive so you can really soak whatever you're working on. If you'll spray it down real well the night before it almost always works. A quart of each has lasted me 3 years and still counting. Sometimes a good wrap with a hammer will loosen things up so the penetration can work sooner. I've even tightened stuck nuts a little then backed off of them, I think that's nutty sounding but I swear it helps. Oh yeah, don't forget about using a wire brush on the exposed threads too. Also an impact wrench or a drill dialed down will move stuff a little and that's all the acetone & ATF mixture needs to get in there and work. Put a box of band aids close by. I keep 4 in my wallet. I use acetone after the baking soda and water rinse. It dissipates moisture and gives you an extra few minutes before flash rust appears inside the tank before you pour the liner in. Read over this if you're thinking of doing it. It'll help understand the steps you have to do. They are very simple you just need to be prepared, it's kinda time sensitive. That acid will etch it down to bare steel which will lightly rust QUICK. http://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

Wick Humble says they're stainless, page 173. If you look at the bottom middle you should see the gap, if you have them. I just did mine with some 0000 steel wool.

Are they similar to the 240 brackets?