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Now that she's running good pulling the motor is like asking an already naked girl to get out of my bed because she's wasted. STUPID now but the big picture.

I've pulled and reinstalled them together with one of those tilt things. Very easy on that downside you speak of, bad back pain as I'm getting older. Actually pulled them alone and probably could've went back in by myself but liked having extra eyes watching.

Try googleing the vin number. Or look on the z car registry for the vin.

Boy oh boy did my temperature get a lot cooler now that the timings right, I guess? It went from the right leg of "M" to diagonally across the "E".

I'll be posting for sure. Tom Monroe's how to book will be under my pillow every night.

Definitely rubbing the lobe. No telling what else could be wrong. That's why It'll be mine after a rebuild. With my a/c setup I may go with an electric pump. That stamped pump was a major pain to get on there.

First off thank you all for your input, it what keeps me going. I'm confident I've found TDC. Spent the afternoon trying different ways and making marks with a Sharpie. I kept landing at the same spot so then I started measuring the distance from the adjusting end of my rockers to the top of the cylinder head on #1 intake and exhaust. Hit the same numbers 3 times, that's good enough for me. 1.700" on the intake valve's rocker and 1.640" for the exhaust. It's about a 1/2" below the 0 degree notch from the factory. I'm going to set the timing again and go fill up with petrol and drive, 60 degrees and sunny today, yippee! Then start planning the motor rebuild project to get to know this motor personally. I keep finding things I don't like.

I'm going to put a bar across my garage ceiling joist for a hoist to pull a motor and transmission and would like to know a roundabout weight of the engine with transmission attached. Thanks, Cliff

Heat shield?

Maybe with one of these.

Yeah, you'd have to drag it out of the woods.

Oiler cam and spray bar = high flow oil pump too

Me too. Makes me want to drive my Z instead of working on it all the time.

I agree, great looking race car that looks to be streetable too.

$1.89 a gallon now in Alabama.

I had to take mine off for the rear spoiler painting. I found all new shanked rivets and the black phillips head screws as well as the cup washer with the clips too. All at Lowes hardware in the automobile draws of the fastener section. I think it all was $3. I'm going to wash my car to see if the spoiler mounting I did leaks before reinstalling that panel. I cracked the hard backing under the vinyl when I removed it. My friendly upholstery shop sprayed glue on there then pressed a thin piece metel over the crack. Brought it home and put some heavy weights off my weight bench/clothes hanger. It is as flat as pancake now.

My dumb arse did what the video says not to do, hit it with a hammer then put it to a bench grinder. I even tried to use a hacksaw to cut through the ceramic before the metal base. I was going to put the the dial caliper through the hollowed out spark plug base. What do you do? wait until the piston top kisses that bolt head? After watching I may try that again! Thanks ZedHead.

My 02/'72 has the four screws and the plastic shanked rivets. The very center 2 are rivets the next 4 going towards the outer edge are the screws and the outermost 4 are rivets. FWIW I'm the 2nd or 3rd owner and it has been off when new to install the rear spoiler. The small pieces of paper are where the screws and cup washers are.

I have some Swiss made dial calipers from this construction company I used to work for with the depth feeler that comes out the end. Similar to these below. I must have rolled that thing a mile inside my garage! The lowest number I got was 1.060". That's from the plug thread beginning to the top of the piston. I am going to get to TDC and reclock the distributor and oil pump spindle again. When I put in that ZX distributor when I first bought the car I got in a hurry to get it running, a mistake I will try and correct. Thank you all for your help. Cliff

I see exactly what you are saying now. Two wheels turning the same direction, one pulls one pushes, that's why I can turn the cam backwards to get a tight straight side. Like one side of an all wheel drive car.

OK I'm assuming you mean the passengers side rear tire not the front tire. I put 2 drinking straws together and rotate that tire until the straw kinda "hoovers" in place. I'm going to get to work now, I'll post some pictures for reassurance.

I'm going to get to TDC via the crank nose then adjust the cam sprocket window until it lines up with the dowel plate mark. Whu pea! I've got a plan. Thank you for your help and I'll figure out how to multi quote when I'm done working on the Z.

There's my problem!!!! I've got the Yorx A/C with the compressor mounted on the passenger's fender and that big old bracket with a belt and pulley. Probably an inch and a half of space to get to the crank nose, so I have to do it from the bottom side. I've been turning the cam with Vise Grips to get TDC. I finally see that the cam doesn't have rods connected to it and the #1 piston! Pulled my head out of my rear end and now I can see. thank you Blue, I'll figure out some way. maybe pulling the ZX shroud off the radiator, DUH, will give some room.

Yes it makes sense, thank you for taking the time to explain. My only question is this "turn the crank pulley clockwise (tensioning the straight side of the chain) until you hit tdc, or turn the cam counterclockwise (again, tensioning the straight side of the chain)" I'm pretty sure my crank and cam turn in the same direction, towards the driver's fender, but I'm not so sure of anything these past few days. Thank you again RossiZ.

Does rotating the cam backwards to get TDC, causing slack on the drivers side, have any effect on the actual top dead center? Sounds like a no brainer question but I'm not positive about it. Thanks Cliff