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They are bigger (240s) than the 280s. Just go ahead and buy a 240, you won't regret it.

I paid almost $450 for a complete set and am considering buying another set.

The 240 ones look wider to me. I'll measure them when I get home from work. Different years shown here, http://www.zcarsource.com/ashtray-240z-260z-280z_8_56380.html

-3 with the wind right now! Daaaum that's cold for here in the North, of Alabama. Man that sucks popping a heater core in the dead of winter. Can you borrow a car from a friend until you get it figured out? I sure hope so.

Red Line quitened mine down considerably. There is particular types you use with the Zs, something about the brass synchronizers. amazon.com has the best prices that I could find. for the transmission http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/mtl/index.html for the differential http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/differentialoilchange/index.html

Here's the only place I've found that "says" they're in stock. Haven't called them because I can't spend the money right now, mine are OK that are on there now. http://www.phantasmusa.com/fairladyz1.html

Bar top coating would be an option. http://www.amazon.com/FAMOWOOD%C2%AE-GLAZE-CLEAR-EPOXY-QUART/dp/B000M2UKM4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420651660&sr=8-3&keywords=famowood+glaze+coat

I've been reading Blue's vacuum gauge results page and thought you might try that test, simple. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/ Idle (with constant large fluctuations) This action usually indicates a leaky head gasket.

"Is it worth a re-torque to help solve this issue for a short time?" That's about your only short time option. Hopefully those APR studs are newer and won't break. You had a 2.8 head on prior right? Smaller block was notched for the 2.8 valves? It is cold as hell down here, 32 degrees when I woke up and I think that's the high for the day. It's supposed to be around 10 degrees tomorrow morning. I'm being a d***, my northern buddies.

I'll be there. http://zccazconvention.com/conventions/2015/

Part number from my Nissan dealer I bought on December 23rd, 26552-E4100 is the right side I think, even numbers are RH if I remember right. Left side is 26557-E4100. I got a good deal, $69 tax and all, but they're next door to my job and I know the parts guys pretty darn well. They like when you know the part number on the older cars they use microfiche for.

I did a quick "non-alcoholic" test. Same results, 34 degrees at 900 rpm 50 at 2500 rpm. Golf tee in the vacuum line and tape over the vacuum advance dashpot nipple. Shifted from 2nd to 3rd at 6500 rpm. Runs like deer, quick! I'll do more testing when it runs bad but I'm going to drive the tires off like it is. And the light was on 6 cylinders, not 2 or 4 or 8 or 12. I think the mechanical timing is off from chain stretch or the pulley has slipped. Also checked breaker plates. It's a reman so could've been that but no. It pulls good. Thats all I care about right now. Rebuilding soon and it'll be right then. Enjoying for now. Thanks for the help, Cliff

That's a "face sweater"

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/_/Navigation;jsessionid=QyKGJsTHBtkvBZJMSQ7MzNYBNTTsph1zTPp1V6sQ6GKFTCmFTMLl!1674018065!185499280?r=%20~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600051%20Screws%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600064%20SEMS%20Screws%22|~

It took a second, that's funny!

Those are some nice seats! Are they Z seats that have been recovered or are they out of another car? Ashtray looks great too. They make a good can holder.

I've got the help of some good teachers. I just woke up and will reread when I'm home from work. Thanks again, Cliff.

I got some good info from #36.

Ok. I never have been able to wrap my head around that whole mechanical/electrical timing thing. I can't make sense of it for some reason? That sounds like a much better plan/idea. Thank you ZedHead.

Yeah I've been thinking the same. I'm going to pull the valve cover off soon and see how far of the cam sprocket line up notches are off. Probably needs to be put ahead a hole or two. But it sure is nice walking into my garage now.

It seems like there's a tech thread on that already. Try and google and see what comes up.

I don't know what this means but I went for a few test drives this morning and after finding the sweet spot on the dizzy came home and hooked the light. Up button up up up until the pointer matched the zero notch on the pulley. 34 was where it matched up at 700 rpms with the vacuum plugged off and taped over.

I have spent time and money to get mine looking good enough to drive out and about. So I was so proud going to get some groceries in my new/old car. Put all the stuff in the hatch then went to unlock the driver's door. Stiff as hell and I didn't want to break the key in the door so I started to climb through the hatch to unlock the driver's door when the security guard came up and ask what I was doing! He thought I was breaking into the car. Showed him how my key operated the hatch lock and offered to show my drivers license when he started to smile and said he knew it was my car he was just busting my balls. So that's what I'll try and fix tomorrow. Always something to "fix" with these cars.

Ahhhhh...last night...

You may need a new slave cylinder? Or bleed out the air?