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Where did you get your heater core hoses, please sir. The work you're doing amazes me. Is this your 1st restore? Oh yeah, what are you gonna do for the bumpers? futofab.com has some 240Z black powder coated ones for $240, haven't seen the sheen yet but the semi gloss you're using would work for me. Look at post #13, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/53303-msa-fiberglass-bumpers.html Thanks, Cliff

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My '77 had one rolling around in it's N47 head. I didn't know what it was at first, the recess for the hex bit was completely full of carbon. I figured it broke over time, heating and cooling down of stressed bolt. Replaced with the ZX turbo bolts.

Yes, but I'll have to wait on Santa. I'm broke at the end of the year. Thank you for keeping parts for us at reasonable price.

He asked that you email him, www.jdm-car-parts.com

How in the hell can you beat that? Dear Santa, I've been good this month.

Just my luck! After a week of carefully cleaning the OE ones, they turned out OK but not like new, I could've bought new. Those look great.

I've read where a guy put some type of valve in between the in and out at the engine bay fire wall right before it enters the cabin. He said it bypasses the heater core in the summer months to help cool the cabin. I can't find the thread right now but I will. It sounded like an idea I'd like to try.

Hey buddy, welcome to the club. You won't find more helpful information and people than here. They've been nothing but nice to my goofy self, we've had some good laughs too. If you need anything let us know, it's already been done and pictures taken for future users. Just when I get stumped and am ready to call it a day I can get on here and find the exact issue from 10 years ago. I like the color with the steel wheels and hubcaps you have, post some pictures for us car pervs to look at. Cliff from Gadsden, where four 240Z owners reside. I can't stand it! Here's mine.

Is that price for the rechroming only or is that the for whole bumper? Those look great! What sheen would the black powder coated bumpers be? Glossy or not so much? I'm very excited about these, you've made my day.

That was a huge PAIN for me! I just had bought the car and got one from O'reilly's. The stamped together one without screws. I had to take that front bracket loose, take off the fan, the bottom radiator hose and the bottom bracket to the alternator. I may have even pulled the alternator altogether! Can't remember, I got a little tipsy doing that job.

It probably is an 86.5mm but there's a "0.75" stamped on the piston tops and I can't figure what else that could be??? I know I could load it all up and got to a machine shop and know for sure but that'll be later. I'm trying, with the help of the members like you, to know as much as I can about this motor. I like the dished pistons for pump gas and it's going to be temporary until I get the original 2.4 built up nice and shiny with the E31 head I'm gonna sink some dough ray me into, $$$. Just getting ready for the cold weather projects I've been putting off until it cools off, and it finally has down here.

If you haven't done this before I'm here to tell you Tom Monroe's book "How to Rebuild Nissan/Datsun L motors" is a must. I just got done finishing disassembly of a motor I bought a couple of months ago, when I tried getting the main bearing caps off I had a hell of a time until I remembered his tips. Use the 2 bolts as a handle to wiggle them and pull them out, use a front cover bolt on the center and rear main to pry them out with a 2x4 and a crowbar. All kinds of helpful information for $20. It's only $13.50 now, How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine: Covers L-Series Engines 4-Cylinder 1968-1978, 6-Cylinder 1970-1984: Tom Monroe: 9781931128032: Amazon.com: Books

Turns out I was dead WRONG. Bought a 240 that came with these parts to build another motor, 2.8 with an E31 head and some triple Webers. I was so excited to get the car I wasn't paying much attention to the parts that were part of the deal, car ran great as it was. So now I've measured and am pretty sure he bought .750mm over sized cast piston cups. The block was bored .030". Here's the numbers as best I could get, block bore is 3.410". Pistons measure 3.390". Top ring in the hole has a gap of .026" with a feeler gauge. Piston with top ring, in the bore looks pretty darn close, very little wiggle. I'm going to put it together with an E88 head that will have the bigger valves put in. It's an early E88 so it should have good enough compression with the dished pistons. Sound OK?

225mm and 240mm is all I've ever seen. 240mm is for the 2+2, 225mm for a coupe. Some put the 240mm in coupes, more grip surface. Sorry I can't say for sure.

I appreciate that info. I'm about an hour west of Cartersville and used to go to Road Atlanta some before they built Barber's in Leeds. I had been thinking of trying Eddie Raditz's shop, it's over in that area also. Thanks again.

I have an F54 87mm overbore block with some new 87mm dished pistons. I know that 1mm is .040" but the ring set that came with all this is .030" oversize. Is that what I need or should I get .040" oversize rings? Thanks for any help, Cliff

I got so engulfed in my first rebuild I can't imagine squeezing in a move. It's all I thought about until I cranked it.

Thank you, thank you! I really wanted to see how the wedge shaped landing was made into the fiberglass, your 2nd picture is perfect. That left end looks like an additional piece of fiberglass, hopefully my painter can sand it down enough it won't be too noticeable. I will order 1 today. Thanks again.

Those are great prices on chroming but I need to get the holes welded up and a couple of dings out first. I'm wanting to drive this car for a few years then get it painted and the bumpers chromed so this is temporary. I carried my front to a local powder coater yesterday and he told me that it's permanent, no chroming after the powder coating. Kacrow76 and Chas, you've pretty much made my decision. I needed to know that they bolted up, all the others are naked bumpers without any mounts built in. Thanks for everybodies replies, Cliff

I did the math 15 years ago. :classic:

That's what I was thinking Mr Beck. I'm just starting to get older and a little wiser with my money.

May very well be electrical, they fail when hot then cool down and come back to life. I think the easiest thing to do is clean all the grounds and connections you can. Takes about an hour and doesn't cost anything. Here's some help with it, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Dang! I wish I had room, I'd buy that and part it out. The bumpers and tail light assembly are worth a grand, easily.

Well that wasn't what I wanted. Bumpers only, no landings. He suggested I use 3M adhesive to hold the bumper to the bracket, not too keen on that. So I'm back to ask about MSA's bumpers. Appreciate any input.