siteunseen

Well mystery size solved, thanks MSA, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02n04a02h/32-1035. They need to be 6mm carriage bolts. MSA's a little pricey though considering I bought the 4 5/16" bolts washers and nuts from JEGs for $6.99, http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEGS-Performance-Products-83770-Chrome-Bumper-Bolt-Kit-Includes-/400656125523?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d48f74e53&vxp=mtr

He's in the Z flippin' business, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-V8-AWESOME-Custom-240Z-240-z-RUST-FREE-V8-Hot-Rod-Muscle-Car-EXCELLENT-TRADE-/161511723824?forcerrptr=true&hash=item259ad95330&item=161511723824&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

I've been able to copy images then paste them to my replies with the new version. Or you can click on the bottom right box that says "More Reply Options", it'll go to another page where you can search your PC then upload the file. Then you have to "Attach File". Try to copy and paste first, it's much faster.

My actuator arm had a contact pad for the cam nose. If I remember right. Without the spacer/insulator it wouldn't sit correctly.

I like it! You could've put Classic Z Cars before Hybrid Z though if you're going for a purist style blog.

I posted this in another thread for some reason. I switched the short hardline from one side to the other and had less bending to do to make them work. http://www.classiczc...linder-problem/ If you do get the cheaper Centrics you may have to bend the the flat steel arm that catches the adjusting wheel. Your e-brake is supposed to adjust after a few pulls but mine didn't. So I took the tire back off and saw that arm wasn't making contact with the teeth on that adjusting wheel. The OE cylinders have the inlet hole in the center and the new ones are at an angle on the back end. Or vice versa? can't remember right now.

I switched the short hardline from one side to the other and had less bending to do to make them work. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50122-early-72-wheel-cylinder-problem/ If you do get the cheaper Centrics you may have to bend the the flat steel arm that catches the adjusting wheel. Your e-brake is supposed to adjust after a few pulls but mine didn't. So I took the tire back off and saw that arm wasn't making contact with the teeth on that adjusting wheel.

Running with a tank below a quarter is bad on any car. Fuel pumps have to work harder.

Seems like I had to get a putty knife and tap around the spacer to break mine loose. You could pull the valve cover off and wiggle the actuator arm from the inside to loosen it up.

$8 per gallon, WOW! That would turn America upside down.

ChriZtine is what I'll name her.

Those Opeckers!

Well it's not the '73, I downloaded it and it's this It's in the '72 FSM though,

ozdat.com says Haynes Manual for the 240Z has the tranny info, http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=31419 Here's the FSM download page, http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html, I forgot about this. I downloaded the on for a '77 and it had the transmission chapter.

Here's the microfiche, http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine240Z260Z/AirCleaner240Z(L24)/ToJun-72/tabid/1579/Default.aspx If it's #11, I googled the part number and a few places had them. Hope this helps. A lot of times I can call my local Nissan parts department and give them the number and they can get the parts, sometimes the next day. They don't like going back as far as our cars, they have to get out their microfiche, their computers don't go back that far.

Without the wrist corsage this is pretty close.

I bought an Exmark commercial mower a few years ago. At the end of the season, getting leaves up it would die when I tried to engage the blades. Scared I'd torn it up already I carried it to where I bought it, they put a new air filter in and I've blown it out once a month since then. It's ran without any problems ever since. *Egg on my face emoticon*

Taiwan is what I read somewhere. They come in a fancy box that says"'70 to '73 240Z Bumper" packaged and wrapped up nicely. I tried to find a scratch, none whatsoever. They polish up like the mirrors in jail.

Hey Greg. I'm about to do the same as you but I'll be putting my old rusty front bumper on my '77. I found a 1/4" thick shelving bracket at Lowes that's the right width and long enough to make 2 brackets. There's a lot of info out there. This guy makes them but it's more than I want to spend before trying something DIY, http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93862/pd1790406/280Z_TO_240Z_FF__RR__BUMPER_CONVERSION_BRACKETS_ They used to have pictures but not now, I guess people were copying his brackets themselves. They pop up on e-bay occasionally. Maybe we can figure something out.

Carrion? Vultures were storing their baggage in there and riding in the cabin with you?

I've had the model for 20 years, now I've got 2 of the real deal. The models are much cheaper!

It has to be louder. I have a 6 into 1 header with 2.5" exhaust, so it's loud anyway but I can say that after doing that it is really pulling some air in. My plastic snorkel had a few cracks in the accordion part, got rid of that. Chipmunks were storing acorns in my air filter box, got rid of that also.

Heres's what I ended up getting, http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/83770/10002/-1?parentProductId=2895853#moreDetails 1/4" are trying to twist in the square hole on the bumper ends so 5/16" will have to work. I'll have them in a few days.

New taillights ordered!!! The rehabbed ones will go on the red and white car. Thanks futofab.com

I got a rough quote to weld up the existing holes for the bumperettes and rechromeing my OE bumpers, $500 each.