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I'm glad to hear you take advantage of the 5% code, sneaky rockauoto has you put it in a trick question box, "Where did you hear about us?" Those pads seem really smooth, not grabby at all. That could be the rotors though? My old ones were shot so anything I did was an improvement. Rears are next weekend hopefully. Hopefully you'll just need to replace the HG to get rid of your leak.

I thought "plug and play" was a marital tool. :stupid:

I bought the slotted and drilled rotors, $70 each, and Wagner ceramic pads $14. $160 from rockauto.com shipping and all. Then remanufactured calipers from Advance with a 30% coupon code, $20 each and a can of red caliper paint for $5. 4 stainless braided caliper to hardline hoses off e-bay from Apex, $50. I also bought a remanufactured 7" brake booster from rockauto.com for $106, I get $20 or $25 back for the core when I send it back. I'm very happy with the results so far but I've only driven it for maybe 30 minutes. And SUPER SORE! Sat cross legged all day Saturday. # rockauto.com has a 5% coupon code that almost covers shipping, http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com #

I bought some touch up paint from amazon.com, actually Jeff's Paint is the seller. I emailed him and told him what I had, 42 year old original paint #918 single stage. He sent me a small container and a brush, it is very close to PERFECT. $8.49 and a really helpful guy.

That's a pretty neat set-up. Are the SUs on Datsuns HS8 or HD8? I've never seen those numbers but according to Wikipedia I think they're HSs. Thanks for sharing that website, I learned something new to me.

I actually used my $50 FSM today. I didn't want to get my laptop greasy for torque numbers

Between $200 and $250 for new rotors, calipers, pads, braided stainless hoses, paint, fluid and a 1 man bleeder that actually works for $6. It takes a Village, of tools...

Engine bay looks like paint #110 but the body looks like #918. What's the sticker on the radiator support say? Just curious.

Does their #91 grind require new springs and shorter valve stem seals? Thanks!

That'd be like buying a .357 Magnum and firing .38 shells through it.

That's the best thing I've done to mine so far and after much research and advice from other members the Crane PS20. It has the same OHMS as a ZX stock coil, 1.5, and is American made. Amazon.com: Crane Cams 730-0020 PS20 Performance Coil: Automotive You won't need the ballast resistor. Go down about 3/4s of the page and look at the 2nd 240Z schematics. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

While you 'splainin to the missus, go ahead and try telling her why you need round mouthed carbs instead of the ones you have.

I've read POR 15 fuel tank sealer then POR 15 on the outside will fix a tank if it's really bad, lots of work though and probably $100 worth of materials. Here's one on e-bay for $300 plus shipping, not too bad in my opinion but you might get it cheaper making an offer, 75 76 Datsun 280z Fuel Tank Gas Tank | eBay

Yes, thank you. I have to replace on myself.

Another little known tech secret. Put your arrow in a picture, hold down the S key and right click. It gives info on the picture. 1975 280Z in the movie Legends of the Superheroes, 1979. IMCDb.org: 1975 Datsun 280Z [s30] in "Legends of the Superheroes, 1979"

I agree. Back when I had my first Zs the gauge would go waaaay past E. Now that I can afford to fill them up, when they're on or near E, they only hold about 10 gallons. I'm learning the gauges in these cars were/are their shortfall.

Finally put the wheel back on after 2 weeks, almost. After getting it back on it finally feels like a classic sports car.

Like everything else, it's easier to ask forgiveness than permission. It's the new "normal" everybody is using now days.

Is this a Georgia car? It seems like I've read Matt Isbell had something to do with this beauty.

Cool! Your Z's like the Six Million Dollar Man, "better... stronger... faster".

That looks good. I might have to rig up some kind of way to secure my horn pad in the future. The plastic ring that clips down on the horn mechanism is or was cracked pretty bad. I have Gorilla glued the hell out of it with zip ties holding it together tightly. I am putting it on today so fingers crossed, it'll stay. What are those two buttons in front of your ashtray? You have power windows?

What a sham! It's like a pufferfish. I am using a Fram cannister filter like that on my D21 pick-up. My Z's is a Wix.

My 1st car engine re-build was an L28. I bought this book, http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410169231&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+rebuild+your+datsun. I didn't have one single problem and it fired right up, never had to call my Dad for help. He was amazed and disappointed.

I forgot to add, I don't recommend Valspar's spray paint. The sheen isn't accurate and it takes forever to dry. I ended up buying a HVLP sprayer from Autozone for $60 and it works great. 3 parts flat oil to 1 part gloss oil, thinned 50% worked out really good for the spokes. On the rim I used some Fabulon Super Satin wood floor poly I had from when I sealed my hardwood floors in my house. The 1st try, with the Helmsman and Valspar rattle can black worked as a kind of pre conditioning for the final finish. Sanding off the Helmsman actually brought the fake grain out like a sanding sealer would've done. Sanding the Valspar off worked like a body filler would on some scratches that were on the spokes. Now I get to put it back together and drive.

This is from my '78 FSM. FS5W71B manual 5 speed, 4 1/4 US pint. So I had to get 3 quarts. It's on page MT-18.