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I bought a Crane PS20, 1.5 OHMS., when I put the ZX dizzy on my 240. Zed Head had a FSM for a ZX that showed that to be the right OHMS. Arne, a 240 guru suggested the Crane. Mine runs way better after doing what they suggested.

Sorry for your loss. I think I'd feel the same way about my '72 now.

I'm seeing how long it'll take to get to Oak Ridge! Do you play a guitar too? I can't.

I bought a car with horrible steering wheel shaking around 30 to 40 mph, too bad to drive. I had the rotors turned and put in new wheel bearings, steady as a rock now. You should adjust the valves as soon as you can, it's easy. Here's my attempt at explaining the procedure, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/52688-problems-few-different-areas-car-running-poor-no-gauges.html Post #6

After fooling around with that motor more I think it's possibly able to be seen if you drop the oil pump. He'll have to remove it anyway.

Direct Tire has a great deal this weekend BUT they're out of stock for at least 45 days according to the salesperson I talked to yesterday. You have to send in a copy of the invoice to get the rebates within 30 days so it won't be any good to go ahead and buy them now and get em when they come in. I like the 16s on my 280 but not on the 240s, 15s for them. Same lugs, different stores.

I just remembered the Zip-Tie around the housing trick Tom Monroe says do. I'm wrong, Tom didn't write it. Some clever person on here most likely.

It's hard to get it in the hole with the cover off! I just took one off an L24 and there's no way in hell the plunger could get in the oil pan except in pieces.

I bought those last year when I bought my 16" Rewinds from Direct Tire, they get $45 for a set of the same lugs. I've had those wheels off and on all 3 of my cars and I use an impact wrench, not a scratch yet. I bought another set yesterday for the 15" Rewinds I'll be getting in a month or so.

Definitely a "measure twice and cut once" project because they're hard (expensive) to replace. 0000 steel wool 1st then I used a light compound and wax on the lenses. Painted the insides of the housing with gloss white. Used flat push nuts and rubber washers to attach the chrome strip, also painted the inside strip flat black. I found a fastener for that middle plastic post, the one you have to break off, that holds on the chrome strip. It has to be ground down though. I used a die to cut threads in the plastic post which did two things, took away the taper and gave it some "teeth" to grab the fastener's threads when I pushed it down onto the post. I dripped some Gorilla Super Glue on there for extra strength. I also painted the metal finisher with graphite wheel paint, Duplicolor #102 and their matte clear wheel coat. Then, TOUCHDOWN ALABAMA!!!

16 12x1 25 Silver Lug Nuts Mod Tech Gline Konig Wheels | eBay

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/50112-timing-chain-tensioner.html

Here's a pretty good circulation diagram to look at. Except for the potential to leak at those connections, I don't see a reason to delete it.

Interesting. Here's that part on a set of SUs I just bought. The above pictures are on my February '72 model that I honestly don't think had the part. Maybe someone with more knowledge on the different types will know for sure. The car runs great and starts right up, sometimes without any choke. I see you live waaay up there so you may need it but if it's replaceable, it's removable.

IMO the blue thing is a shaving kit and the black one is a coffee maker.

Where you been?

Here's mine. I was too scared to mess with the one at the thermostat housing but changed the back one. I cut the old hard and brittle one off with a razor knife then the newer rubber was bendable to get it on.

The '78 has a 2 fuel, 1 inlet the other's the return line, and 1 vacuum nipple. Some people don't use the CSV. Maybe it's been deleted? Put up a picture so we can see. here's a '78 FPR, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=47132&cc=1209260 and a '77s, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=46963&cc=1209248 Does the driver's door plate date say it's a '77? Usually September is when they change to the next year on the title.

Yeah when you swap to the electronic dizzy it does away with the ballast resistor giving it 12V.

When you say a stock coil do you mean a stock ZX coil? or your stock 240 coil? There's a difference.

I've got an aluminium rail similar to those Pallnet makes. I ran the CSV hose off a "T" at the back. One side goes to the FPR, the other to the CSV.

I'm beginning to feel a little like Jeffery Dahmer, collecting heads. I've got an E31 3 E88s 1 N42 1 N47 and a P79 3 of those are on my cars. TOOT TOOT!

How long can a Z car sit? I have 2 that I'm neglecting a little bit while I'm working on my newest one. I charge their batteries once a month and crank them every weekend I just don't drive them. I'm worried about the fuel sitting still in the tank. I can't decide whether to fill the tank or leave it lower because I won't be driving them. I know this isn't the worst problem to have but still a worry to me. Thanks for any recomendations.

What's under the blue cover where the battery is supposed to be? Another 4 barrel? "That's some weird, wild stuff." YES!

Blue swapped his hot post to the outside to keep it from possibly sliding over and arcing on the inside of the fender. I'm sure others have done the same as it's not a bad idea come to think of it.