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You could go to a parts store and get the right width and real close on the overall length, they have a belt stretcher that measures your old 240 belt's length. V-Belt Number Finder For Replacement Belts | Gates Corporation

Bam!

That link I posted doesn't have a valid path to the valve adjustment tip. It's really easy and clears the mind for a few minutes, you'll enjoy it one day. Hers's what you need, 17mm crows foot socket, $20 for a set of metrics at a chain parts store; 14mm open end wrench; feeler gauge set; 10mm socket. You can put your car in a high gear and roll it to move the cam lobes or get a 27mm socket for the front pulley, turn motor clockwise,. or a remote starter $15 at chain parts store. I prefer the remote starter because I have to raise the engine bay of the car up to waist level, hurts my back too much bending over. The 27mm with a pull handle is kinda difficult with the fan and all or getting under the car to pull it. If you use the remote starter don't pull the trigger, put the handle in one hand and bump the trigger into your other hand. Make a template? with the valves and the clearances written on it, COLD is Exhaust .010 Intake .008, HOT .012 Exhaust Intake .010 Remove the valve cover and plug wires. Put a towel over the fender and put your template under the wiper. See which lobes high point, the smallest part of the tear drop shape, are coming towards you on the passenger's side. Our motors are sitting tilted to the passenger's side so be sure and line the tear drops top up with the center of the cam towers, there's 5 of them that the cam goes through, I made a center line with a Sharpie when I realized the motor wasn't centered in the bay. When the point centers up top slide the correct feeler gauge in between the cam and the rocker's pad. If it's supposed to be .012 do what they call the "fits and doesn't fit" method, if a .013 won't fit it's good, if it does and the .012 is loosely go in and out it needs to be tightened. Take the 17mm crows foot and loosen the locking nut at the base of the rocker arm. Then use the 14mm to adjust the next nut up until the feeler gauge has a drag to it coming out. See if the .013 "fits or doesn't fit". When your happy with it tighten the 17mm locking nut and put an "X" on your template. Move on to the next lobe coming up, it doesn't have to be in order. Before you know it you'll be done.

My Dad would dump a can of black pepper flakes in his work truck and it worked, temporarily. So save the flushings for a BLT. :laugh:

I would, 1st, put a filter between the tank and pump, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation, then a NEW filter up front behind the radiator on passenger's side. 2nd, clean up the grounds around the motor, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html, then a NEW set of NGK BP6ES 3rd, adjust the valves. very easy with the proper tools, do them cold first. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=adjusting%20valves%20280z 4th, borrow a vacuum gauge from parts store or buy one and check the vacuum, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/ 5th, check your fuel pressure. Borrow a gauge from parts store or buy one at Lowes, Shop Aqua EZ Pressure Gauge at Lowes.com, get the fittings and "T" it in a fuel line. 6th, pull the connectors off each injector to make sure they're firing 7th, put a mirror under the intake manifold where the EGR mounts and look for soot from a loose fitting tube coupler. Recall from Nissan about this issue back then. Looking back I would adjust the valves 1st if you haven't already, it really makes a difference. Make sure all the vacuum lines are good, especially the one going to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. This will help immensely, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html Have fun!

How free spinning is your fan clutch? Too easy isn't good.

That's a good looking car! My '77 has those same extra holes around the engine bay plate. I'm pretty sure that G before the HLS is the symbol for 2+2s. Here it is, http://www.xenons30.com/VIN.html Here's something every '77 owner should know about, because he has one. Tech Tips

That chart I posted in #1 says "Grind customers cam B". My internal oiler cam is a B stamped one, on the N47, it also has a spray bar. The E31 cam is stamped "A" without oil holes, just the spray bar. I would rather have both, oiler cam and spray bar with the automatic turbo's oil pump, flood the cam. Is there a L motor specialist at Isky that you deal with? I hate to keep bothering you with my questions and my local machinist is not very familiar with our cars. He said he could access all the details with a computer program he has. I thought about Eddie Radatz in Kennesaw, GA. I know Rebello is the most recommended but I'd like to keep it on the east side of the Mississippi. Who do you use? Thank you for all your insight, it's priceless...literally.

Actually I was! Not now though, thanks. I hope the E31 towers have the oil passages for the cam as well as the spray bar. I'll look when I get home. Thanks again.

I haven't even noticed the drain **** being on the bottom as opposed to the back side, . I'll probably put a brass plug in there just to be safe, thanks Hardway! Didn't clean the shroud too well as I'll be taking the motor out this fall.

The orange car I recently bought was reading too hot for my comfort zone too. I read a older thread that Carl Beck commented on about putting a newer 280 radiator in 240s, said he started using them when they first came out in the late 70s. I bought one and already had a shroud and fan from a '79 ZX, couldn't get the ZX fan figured out though, the hub is recessed unlike the 240s which is all the way up front. Anyway, Blah blah blah and it cools great. Maybe get one and keep the original for later, that's what I did. Pictures soon. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/parts-swapping-s30/52672-easy-fit-new-radiator.html amazon.com has one, Amazon.com: Ready-Rad 0433634 New Radiator: Automotive

The Blue Angels are out of Pensacola, Florida. So they're Navy. Nothing's cooler than being on the beaches of the Panhandle when they're flying, they're girl watching.

I have a 9/'76 N47 cylinder head with a "B" internal oil cam with spray bar. I would like to know, before I call, if my thinking is correct. I want the Stage III grind on my cam using my rockers and lash pads as well as the cam towers to be installed on an E31 head. Is this the way to do it or am I wrong? Will I send them my rockers or should I get their's? lash pads? Thanks to anybody that can steer me the right way, Cliff

I can't keep peanut butter, girlfriends and their dogs. Dielectric grease holds things together for me.

I put a 3 row 280 radiator in a 240 without any problems. The automatic transmission cooler on the bottom was the only difference between the two, it hangs 2" lower on the bottom. I got it from Advance for $142 after a $50 coupon code worked. I took a chisel and knocked off the pre welded nuts and used the 12mm bolts and nuts that were on the 240. Put a ZX shroud on and two new Gates hoses. After driving it for 30 minutes the front of the head and thermostat housing read 165 degrees and the rear of the head read 138, the block was 122 degrees. Very happy with it. ToughOne or Ready-Rad Radiator 433634: Buy a car radiator from the experts at Advance Auto Parts

Here's a spread sheet on the distributors with some good information Mr Moore made out, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/electrical-s30/29404d1240455807-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference-distributor-advance-curves.xls

You have a great car I know you will enjoy for a long time and those extras for piece of mind are nice too.

Can't get much better advice than these guys, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/parts-swapping-s30/52595-e-88-head-swapping.html #2 and post #3

The actual throat of the throttle body needs cleaning on most all the cars I've bought, they get sticking around where the plate meets the housing. It's easy once you have that hose off. Toothbrush and some lacquer thinner.

Wow, it looks like there was a fire or a bomb explosion. I made on of those with your blower shoved inside clear tubing, it works but it uses ALOT of soda and a huge mess. My neighbors wouldn't even look at me for a few days, it covered everything. Can't wait to see what you come up with, it's gotta be better than mine.

I just wanted to write something so I'd get the green arrow. This is great!

If you have a Nissan dealership close by they were .61 each, $7.32 in May of '12.

That's exactly right. 240 adjustment is by turning the backside bolt, it's big; Crescent wrench, the 280 has the vertical bolt for adjusting tension, 12mm I think but it could be a 14mm. 240 top mounted pulley 280 lower drivers side

Put a new 3 row brass and copper 280 radiator in my '72 240 and a full shroud. Radiator fit great just hangs lower because of the added transmission line cooler cavity. Dumb a## me didn't get all the parts before I started so I'll have to wait until Monday morning for the different shape lower hose, every chain store has the upper but no lowers. Beers are on me, literally.

I'd get the new o-rings too and the newer hex head hold down screws, Nissan part #01121-02981, don't have the number for the o-rings, they came with my FJ707Ts. Check your old holders for cracks then don't over tighten the screws on installation, that's what causes the cracks.