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I think fins would help. My go karts had finned heads to catch air.

My only mistake (:stupid:) is I didn't check the levelness and the up and down plumb? when I tapped the 6 injector holes. 4 are straight and 2 aren't, but they're separated so only a OCD person like myself would notice. I would, of course, not get in a hurry and check the levelness between each drilling. I guess the force of my drill press caused the rail stock to move in between holes. Clamp it with cardboard or luan wood works best on the press. Use plenty of oil or spray lube on the drill bits and the taps. This is the only thing that wouldn't melt down onto my heat shield, Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant (.2 oz) 59214: Get the best Pipe Sealer & Teflon Tape at Advance Auto Parts. Let me know if I can help. Cliff Oh yeah, I didn't drill the ends just tapped the threads. The hole is already perfect from rossmachine. Oh yeah again, I didn't do a barb for the CSV, just T'd out the back. One goes to the FPR the other side to the cold start valve.

I used muratic acid to clean mine, as Blue did here, Z Tech Tips Ball and Socket Compression Rod (AtlanticZ.ca). Worked great. Then sealed it with Red Kote, $20 bucks for a quart. Put a glass fuel filter right before the fuel rail, no pinkish gas. Very pleased with that stuff.

Without a taste test I'd have to say they're breath mints. Probably was a smokers car, I've heard that was Kool back in the 70s.

There's 2 with aluminium rails in that thread I linked, Willoughby Z and 280~Master. They live down here where it gets pretty hot so they might be able to share their experiences on the hot restarting problem.

Same here!

"Oh, I see!" said the blind man. I ended up getting the vacuum gauge out and left the timing light on my bench. Turned it until it got the quietest and was pulling the highest vacuum, then backed up a smidge. Hooked up the light and it was on the V before 20. So I'm guessing that's about 17.5. Called my other cars mechanic and he said he had one of those good timing lights and if I brought him lunch Friday, he'd do the total advance thing y'all speak of. Thanks very much for helping me understand.

When I rebuilt my motor I put the new timing set at hole 3 for more low end power. Reading Blue's tips I've found that will increase the timing 8 degrees with a new chain. I've also read that a good setting with the E12-80 distibutor is 12 -14 BTDC. So for an initial setting I should see the pulley mark line up with 5 on the timing scale for a total of 13 degrees BTDC? I've overloaded my thinking to the point of confusion. Thanks for any help, Cliff

The enjoyment of changing plugs in the Z compared to the 911, that's enough to switch back. I remiss. That was enough for me.

Donate to the club, those are skimlinks I believe. After I got the gold star they went away, worth every penny! When your motors hot that aluminium rail feels cool while idling doesn't it? I made my rail too for 50 bucks and still have the measurements if anybody wants them, thanks again Willoughby. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/43897-make-fuel-rail.html, #21. My old injectors had one small hole in the pintle, new ones are the hole thing with a spray hole in the center, Standard FJ707Ts. I'm glad things are better on your Z.

Thank you guys! It'll be here Saturday. tlorber I would like to say thank you also for the other option.

Anybody have any ingenious ways to fix this without replacing the console? '72 240Z, I've taken the ashtray out and slide the cover open to hold it steady with my hand for now. One of those plastic screw holders have broken. Thanks for any ideas.

Blue's telecomm company's going to see the correlation of broken down systems and broken down Zs soon.

All the videos I see are posted on youtube first. Then put the youtube link on here.

Just a thought, could you get it depressed and run a self tapping screw through the tube some where that's not noticeable? Maybe on both so as not to slowly creep out on down the road?

I noticed the newer hex head screws. That may be how the holders got cracked, too much righty tighty.

I'm guessing I should run ZX plugs now that I've switched to a ZX distributor? Is this what everybody else runs that's done it? Thanks for any replies, Cliff

Hang in there buddy, you'll get it figured out, I can say for d a m n sure you're determined.

That does sound like a lash pad has fallen off, mine has done that after a good romping. Pull the valve cover off and see, they're not hard to re-install. Sounds more "clickity" than whirring.

I put an Accel coil on my '77 when I was trying to figure out mine. That wasn't the problem though so I can't say it helped any, but that looks like the only part you haven't replaced.

Advanced Auto has it for $3.99 a quart.

Click the "go advanced" button, then scroll down to "manage attachments" then click on "add files". Find your pics then "upload files". Drag them down to the bottom bar, then "Done" or "insert inline". That's how I do it. Working on sewer lines since he was 3? and your worried about a brake "Idiot" light? You need one.

Post #8 is about the only way I could find to determine anything, it's like they're UFOs or something. Transmission Identification Info - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z I'll add a lesson I learned the hard way from Eurodat, 280ZX 2+2s have the wide ratio transmission no matter the year. Now I have 3.

When I bought my '72 the previous owner had to replace the brake booster before he could sell it, same problems you're having, no pedal according to him. He said it wasn't a big job?