siteunseen

That's why I used the word "it", not "them". Sorry for not be more specific.

Pencil mark around the hood hinges before you remove it. Helps get it even on both sides when you re-install it. And take some photos before you start, engine mounts are different for 1 side for example. A roll of painters tape and a Sharpie is a good way to tag everything. Zip-Loc bags for all the bolts too. Getting it out's easy, putting it back after spending the $$$ and time is nerve racking.

That looks like a speeding ticket sitting still. Looks great!

Here's something to read over until Blue gets there, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/enginerebuild/index.html

I have the ceramic coated 6 to 1 header from MSA and their 2 1/2" premium exhaust, Felpro gasket off the shelf at local auto parts store, no leaks. I did use better manifold studs and exhaust locking nuts from a Nissan dealership. The exhaust and bigger wheels and tires are my 2 favorite purchases so far. It has a "screaming bloody murder" sound up high in the RPMs, like a sport bike. The exhaust was around $500, wheels and tires $700.

That's what I did, you'll have to drill out the hole on the horn and the grounding wire to the bigger bolt size. Use Vise Grips or something besides your fingers to hold the grounding connector. I learned the hard way, 40 year old brass is a lot stiffer than todays. Drill bit curled it up the side of my finger, Band-Aids for 2 weeks.

The horn mounts in the smaller hole on the tube with the nut. Below and to the right of the wire loom. The 3 big holes are for the bumper mount to the frame.

It's kind of like a see-saw. When it's down, nothing touches so everything is off. Roll it forward to the middle and the left plate touches the contact solder spots energizing the parking lights and dash lights. Forward again and the right plate contacts the headlight solder spot, the Z Gods say "let there be lights". Everytime you turn them on it arcs which over time burns the contact spot down. When you take it apart and flip the plates it's like new again. You can buy the headlight harness from Dave Irwin, eliminating all that. It wires straight to the battery from what I've read, soon I'll know for sure. I forgot to answer your question, YES my headlights worked but my dash lights were out. I thought I burnt them installing a stereo.

Mine is all the same shade of white.

Read post #4, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/51848-1972-240z-gas-tank.html, maybe something you're experiencing? I just saw you have FI. Maybe a new fuel filter up front. Check the air filter for acorns or rodent nests. Did you spray the engine bay when you got it back out? Could be moisture somewhere like the TPS or the AFM, you can take the black covers off to see if the vanes are sticking.

Here's a write up about the 240's combo switch but they're pretty much the same on both cars. You'll have to bend the metal tabs up with a small screwdriver and then bend them back with small needle nosed pliers. Then you can use a wire to jump power to the solder spot to see if they come alive. If they do, you'll need to take it off and refurbish it. Flip the rocker strips and shine them up. It'll make your headlights brighter too. You've read an encyclopedia on here. This is easier to read, http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf Repairing 240Z combination.zip

My dash lights quit too but it was in the combo switch. You could take the cover off and jump a wire from constant hot to the green with white stripe dash light wire to see if they come on. You've never read "To Kill a Mockingbird"?

I put Red Line 75/90 gear oil in my 240 and am now have some 40 year old gear oil, or at least it smells 40 years old. Now I understand "lather, rinse and repeat as necessary".

I like the blue with white interior '77. Datsun 280 Z For Sale (1977) on Car And Classic UK [C342803] Holy cow, I just did the conversion. 5950 British Pound Sterling equals 9814.52 US Dollar. Looks like a red shift pattern on the stick though so it's got a 5 speed.

No sir! No need to say that. I apologize for my comment, it was totally uncalled for. I was trying to be funny and failed miserably, I regret it. Dad-gum Bud Lites. Again, I'm sorry.

Yes I was able to cure it but at a greater expense than a injector cooling fan from the ZXs. I did all of it while rebuilding my motor, you know the old "as long as I'm here I might as well go there too" adage. Getting rid of all the emission stuff and spaghetti pile of hoses that were there were my main goal, we don't have the inspections in good old Alabama. If you could find one of those fans that would be the easiest fix until you're ready to go a lot further, headers and a straight through fuel supply. I love what Zed Head said, "For the sake of the passengers in these embarrassing situations, please."

Where did you get that quote from? I didn't read that in his post.

Here's a start, Z Tech Tips Ball and Socket Compression Rod (AtlanticZ.ca). I did it and coated mine with Red-Kote. EDIT; It's not about ball and socket compression rod, it's how to rehab your gas tank, click on it.

Here's what I've read about that, never done it though but there's info in the archives about it. You can pull the valve cover and shine a flashlight down the passengers side of the chain to see how far your tensioner is pushed out. You're not supposed to see any of the metal on the plunger or very little. A 1/4 inch would be the max I'd think, 1/2 inch and you need to move the sprocket to the next number. here's something to look at, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

Hello Mike! How many Z mechanics does it take to screw in a spark plug? 1, he holds the plug in place and the world spins around him. Heard that a court ordered AA meeting but it was how many alcoholics does it take to screw in a light bulb. Keep coming back!

Re-posted from another thread mentioned in post #1 here, thanks Zed Head, you're a REAL problem solver , I'm shooting in the dark. "I didn't mention that I have the ceramic coated header from MSA. That could be important as I've never had the hot start problem since the header and new injectors on a open fuel supply with the aluminium rail and the FPR out the rear barb to the return line to the tank. It recirculates but not on top of the intake manifold." As soon as I can find one I'll get one of those infrared thermometers you can point at something to get the degrees and get some readings while it's hot, then after it sits for 10 or so minutes.

"But you doesn't have to call me Johnson"

Calling Captain Obvious! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/51640-steering-rack-disassembly-refurb.html

I didn't mention that I have the ceramic coated header from MSA. That could be important as I've never had the hot start problem since the header and new injectors on a open fuel supply with the aluminium rail and the FPR out the rear barb to the return line to the tank. It recirculates but not on top of the intake manifold.