siteunseen

Here's my pictures from when I did mine. Glad to see you went with the color of grease, I did and then read the black was less likely to squeak. Something about graphite?

My Mom's always had Jack Russells, they're as nutty as a squirrel's turd. Pile up some blankets and they'll be gone for hours. She has a hard time with keeping their nails filed down too. They don't sit still!

Muriatic acid and Red-Kote worked great for me. Z Tech Tips Ball and Socket Compression Rod (AtlanticZ.ca) It's not a ball and socket tip, it's tank removal and cleaning. Then put a filter out of the tank, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation

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Sorry, I can't help you there.

Pictures of it installed or laying on a bench? I'll get you some from inside my car but i don't have the the panel itself out of my car.

I have that in my favorites, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/su-carb-technical-articles/41940-quick-dirty-su-tuning.html

They run better with a thermostat. Nissan recommends 170 degrees for tropical temps. Also try spinning your fan, if it spins too easily the fan clutch maybe worn out. Maybe 1 revolution with your hand on a new one, cold, they're oil filled. What does the needle show after 25 minutes? Colder?

When I bought my 240 it was my 1st carbureted Z and I was thinking the reason I was cranking and cranking with the choke lever pulled was the carbs needed to be filled with fuel. Turns out my valves were out of adjustment. After getting them back to specs it cranks on the 1st turn over with full choke. They weren't unusually loud though so it was just luck that I even checked them, actually it was a rainy day and bored to death project. I'm no certified mechanic but I think they DO need the CSV just like my 240 needs to be choked. I left mine unplugged accidentally and knew right away something was wrong but your '83 may be different than a '77. Take it out of the manifold and put it in a glass jar to see if it's squirting fuel, 2 phillips head screws I think. Maybe the connector is bad or needs cleaning? Good luck! Oh yeah, UNPLUG THE COIL WIRE before test cranking.

Which spoiler is that? I'm about to buy one from JEGS, it's a Xenon #3125, and was curious about the urethane being wavy. Seems like I read more and more about that problem. Thanks for any advice.

Make sure the "Bullet Connectors" are clean and plugged together firmly, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html. More on EFI, Z Tech Tips EFI & Fuel (AtlanticZ.ca) || |Â |Â Â |Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |

Do you pull the pressure off the steering wheel lock as you try and turn the key? I have to do that on mine if the front wheels aren't straight. They're should be a sticker in the glove box with the key code, maybe a new key would be easier? My 240 has a new ignition installed, the guy I bought it from said the old one was worn so bad the key would fall out. I worked at a hardware store out of high school and made keys, house keys and auto 2 sided ones. When a customer brought one back saying it was too hard to turn I would smooth it down further with the wire wheel on the machine, always worked better. If you have access to a bench grinder with a wire wheel give it a try, when it gets too hot to hold you should stop and try it to see if it's any easier to turn. That's my $.02.

Could very well be the TPS, here's adjusting tip http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html. Here's AFM info too, click on EFI and FUEL. http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html Has it just started the jerking or is it a problem you've had? I've read FI cars don't run good with bigger cams is why I ask. Old Yeller's a fine looking car!

Your throttle plate might be all gummed up causing the sticky feeling gas pedal. Lacquer thinner and a tooth brush fixed mine.

Here's Blue's Tech Tip for head removal, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/42420-77-280z-head-removal-%5Bstep-step-photos%5D.html When I did mine I used my longest screwdriver's handle for the wedge then pulled it out with Vise Grips. Worked for me. And also went with Felpro, dry. You might want to upgrade your headbolts while your there, turbo ZX from MSA, seems like they were $100 though.

I like the look you have there. I'm planning on doing something similar to my '77. Xenon #3125 air dam with a thin bumper. Pulled off the front bumper last Wednesday, snow day with pay! Welcome to the Forum.

At worst it looks original to 1972. I like it.

Good looking herd you have there! They're a lot more fun than collecting stamps.

siteunseen may have inadvertently steered the discussion off-track with Post #2. The question is how get the handle on, not off.

'71 through '75 Cedric 230 had that motor. Nissan Cedric - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Or so says wikipedia, so who knows. I got snowed out of work today so I'm bored, sorry, but I've been reading on ratsun.net and from what little I read they're saying that motor in cars has a 200mm where the trucks have the 225mm. Search around their site, you might find something useful.

If I remember right from a ZX I had you push it and it goes through the warning lights to make sure they're working, not too sure though maybe google it?

Cleaning the electrical connections helped mine a lot when I first bought it. Replacing dry rotted vacuum lines too, then a good tune up. It was fairly cheap on parts, mostly labor. Tech Tips http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Someone on here said to use a thin rag between the handle and the door panel to remove the pin. Maybe you could use a handkerchief or bandanna and pull it down? Mark Maras was the member that offered that trick.

Congratulations! Sharp looking car.

I went and looked at mine, 355,000 something serial number, the strut housing? is a dark blue under all the grime. And the funny thing is, my front passenger side spring has about 3 coils that are red the rest is either black or dark blue too. If you'll tell me where to look I'll be glad to or take some pictures. Cliff