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Here's the original color codes, 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery

You'd never laid eyes on it and drove for 28 hours? That's nerves of steel! And a good car too. Glad to have you at Classic Zs.

I can't remember where I bought it, I have the regular chain stores close by. But I could've got it from amazon.com or rockauto.com. https://www.google.com/search?q=STANDARD+MOTOR+PRODUCTS+PS153&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=STANDARD+MOTOR+PRODUCTS+PS153&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=44198

I found a good hose at a junkyard. But do I need it? I put some screening wire around the opening and the clamp to keep the squirrels out. I'm hoping to gain at least 20Hp like all the K&N people claim. :stupid:

I found the one I had that read low all the time. I read something about the newer style being more accurate so I bought one. For me, it worked. FAIW, which ain't much!

Ah! HaHa! She's a "Shawty", literally, against that Z.

I remember there is a plug that I had to unplug to get the combo switch out of the car, so yes you'll need to plug that one back up. I used a 12 volt test light to jump power from the white/red to the green/white and my dash lit up. The kind with a needle-like point on 1 end and an alligator clip on the other works for a jumper. If you take the 2 part cover off behind the steering wheel you should be able to find the plug that runs to that combo switch. It's on the bottom of the steering column and will have those wire colors. If your seat belt light comes on I'd think it's the combo switch instead of blown bulbs. See if your side marker lights and tag light are working, there all tied into that confounded combo switch. Best of luck! 1 more thing, there is a fuse for the switch's power. I believe it's the 4th from the top on the right side of the fuse block. Probably says park lights/headlights or similar on the fuse box cover.

Does anybody have any opinions on these? Tokico HPK Kit NISSAN 280Z. I'm thinking about buying some for my '77 and would like to hear from someone that has them. Thanks for any replies.

Here's what I'm looking at, Tokico HPK Kit NISSAN 280Z. Haven't read that many reviews from Z owners yet. I thought I might start a thread and ask though.

That's why I used the word "it", not "them". Sorry for not be more specific.

Pencil mark around the hood hinges before you remove it. Helps get it even on both sides when you re-install it. And take some photos before you start, engine mounts are different for 1 side for example. A roll of painters tape and a Sharpie is a good way to tag everything. Zip-Loc bags for all the bolts too. Getting it out's easy, putting it back after spending the $$$ and time is nerve racking.

That looks like a speeding ticket sitting still. Looks great!

Here's something to read over until Blue gets there, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/enginerebuild/index.html

I have the ceramic coated 6 to 1 header from MSA and their 2 1/2" premium exhaust, Felpro gasket off the shelf at local auto parts store, no leaks. I did use better manifold studs and exhaust locking nuts from a Nissan dealership. The exhaust and bigger wheels and tires are my 2 favorite purchases so far. It has a "screaming bloody murder" sound up high in the RPMs, like a sport bike. The exhaust was around $500, wheels and tires $700.

That's what I did, you'll have to drill out the hole on the horn and the grounding wire to the bigger bolt size. Use Vise Grips or something besides your fingers to hold the grounding connector. I learned the hard way, 40 year old brass is a lot stiffer than todays. Drill bit curled it up the side of my finger, Band-Aids for 2 weeks.

The horn mounts in the smaller hole on the tube with the nut. Below and to the right of the wire loom. The 3 big holes are for the bumper mount to the frame.

It's kind of like a see-saw. When it's down, nothing touches so everything is off. Roll it forward to the middle and the left plate touches the contact solder spots energizing the parking lights and dash lights. Forward again and the right plate contacts the headlight solder spot, the Z Gods say "let there be lights". Everytime you turn them on it arcs which over time burns the contact spot down. When you take it apart and flip the plates it's like new again. You can buy the headlight harness from Dave Irwin, eliminating all that. It wires straight to the battery from what I've read, soon I'll know for sure. I forgot to answer your question, YES my headlights worked but my dash lights were out. I thought I burnt them installing a stereo.

Mine is all the same shade of white.

Read post #4, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/51848-1972-240z-gas-tank.html, maybe something you're experiencing? I just saw you have FI. Maybe a new fuel filter up front. Check the air filter for acorns or rodent nests. Did you spray the engine bay when you got it back out? Could be moisture somewhere like the TPS or the AFM, you can take the black covers off to see if the vanes are sticking.

Here's a write up about the 240's combo switch but they're pretty much the same on both cars. You'll have to bend the metal tabs up with a small screwdriver and then bend them back with small needle nosed pliers. Then you can use a wire to jump power to the solder spot to see if they come alive. If they do, you'll need to take it off and refurbish it. Flip the rocker strips and shine them up. It'll make your headlights brighter too. You've read an encyclopedia on here. This is easier to read, http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf Repairing 240Z combination.zip

My dash lights quit too but it was in the combo switch. You could take the cover off and jump a wire from constant hot to the green with white stripe dash light wire to see if they come on. You've never read "To Kill a Mockingbird"?

I put Red Line 75/90 gear oil in my 240 and am now have some 40 year old gear oil, or at least it smells 40 years old. Now I understand "lather, rinse and repeat as necessary".

I like the blue with white interior '77. Datsun 280 Z For Sale (1977) on Car And Classic UK [C342803] Holy cow, I just did the conversion. 5950 British Pound Sterling equals 9814.52 US Dollar. Looks like a red shift pattern on the stick though so it's got a 5 speed.

No sir! No need to say that. I apologize for my comment, it was totally uncalled for. I was trying to be funny and failed miserably, I regret it. Dad-gum Bud Lites. Again, I'm sorry.