siteunseen

I didn't mention that I have the ceramic coated header from MSA. That could be important as I've never had the hot start problem since the header and new injectors on a open fuel supply with the aluminium rail and the FPR out the rear barb to the return line to the tank. It recirculates but not on top of the intake manifold.

So if it gets current only with the starter, it's squirting some fuel when the starter is engaged? I'd like to think it gets a little shot on start regardless of the temp, it has to help.

So the Cold Start Valve does not squirt fuel anytime the motor is hot? Wouldn't that be beneficial on starting regardless of the temp? My Exmark mower has to be choked EVERYTIME I crank it, no matter if it's scorching hot. Not full choke but about half, always. I thought the CSV shot a little each time you turned the key.

I think he means coolant temp sensor. It has two bullet connectors about 8" from the thermostat housing. Here's some pictures of the connections on top of the motor but he could mean where the wiring harness connects to the ECU. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html, 4th picture down.

Are the plugs dark? Is your choke adjusted right? Sounds rich to me. Pull the plugs and put up a picture of them.

Sounds like 3 days of driving clogged up your fuel somewhere, try a new filter up front. You should put one between the tank and the the fuel pump too, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation

I went out there and the motor isn't locked up, and the transmission is a close ratio for sure. Paid him $25 and he's going to put it where I can get to everything better. I'll have it in a few days, I hope!, and will put up a picture.

I'm not too smart BUT an aluminium fuel rail with the FPR on the back end is pretty simple.

What does the "RC39" stand for? I found a 2+2 '82 at a junkyard with that written on the engine bay ID plate, FS5W71B RC39. I've looked and can't find out what it means. That tranny and the motor for $150. It's an old junkyard that the kids of the deceased owner are cleaning up to sale the land, they're crushing everything old and there's about 5 Zs out there but they're ruined from sitting out so long. Thanks for any information someone might have.

Skim through this for the info you're asking about, The Datsun Workshop Cylinder Head page

It's stout! So fast the side marker blew off. 1972 Datsun 240 Z

The ZXs have their blinkers in the bumpers, 240s are below the bumper, the 280s are just right!

Rust bucket? Looks more like a rust shot glass to me.

Looks untouched, which is good and bad. Good that it's original but bad because you've got a lot of work to do. You're going to need to pull the valve cover off to oil the valve train before cranking it so there's your chance to clean that. You're going to need to clean the electrical connections, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html. After draining the tank put a cheap clear fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation. Open the air box behind the front bumper and clean all the acorns out then get a new filter, they're cheap. Get a new metal fuel filter, passenger's side of the engine bay up front. Once you have new filters in you could straight wire the fuel pump to build up the pressure, which is about 30 something PSI so be careful, and look for fuel leaks around the clamps and maybe a rotted hose or 2. Change the oil and filter with cheap stuff from Walmart for the 1st time. Drain the radiator and flush it out, pull the old thermostat out and loosen the bottom radiator hose to flush out the engine coolant passages too. That's the first few hours. Oh yeah, I wouldn't spray the engine off with a hose pipe. I know it's tempting but a good Scotch Brite pad and some Simple Green with lots of rags works fine and keeps moisture out of the electronics. You've read all this before but I'm drinking coffee and it's raining! Again, a GREAT looking car.

Unions, in my opinion.

Looks like a good find! Put up some pics of the engine bay too, sometimes these guys can spot problems just by looking at one. And read post #8 before you start cranking on it since it been sitting so long. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/introductions-z-stories/22619-waking-sleeping-beast.html He talks about carburetors and you have fuel injection but a lot of good info none the less. Here's some really good stuff too, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

I learned some helpful tricks for soldering by watching a Youtube video, stiff wire with alligator clips on the ends was the best one. It was frustrating compared to butt connectors but since it was my injector connectors I didn't want miles of electrical tape looking at me every time I opened the hood.

159.1 kilowatts = 213.356614 horsepower That's strong! N42 have dished pistons?

Does your '75 have the smaller one or the bigger one that looks like a fuel filter? My late '77 has the bigger one and it reads strong pressure even at idle although it gets lower when the oil is hot at idle. But at 3k RPM it reads 3/4's of the gauge. 1977 NISSAN 280Z Oil Pressure Sender / Switch

After reading about excessive heat I decided to clean mine and paint them with high heat aluminum rattle can. VHT Flameproof for headers. Some serious heat comes off my header runners but above the shield it's not hot at all, my fuel rail is even cool to the touch, all your wiring and injectors will last longer if you use them I would think. At least use the horizontal one, IMO. You can put it on afterwards if you decide not to use them now, I took mine back off to paint it satin black. And I had to trim the vertical one for mine.

Well I learned something today thanks to ZedHead and google.com/images. :classic:

Where's your other fuse-able link block? Don't they all have 2?

Me too! though it was 20 years and a couple of Porsches later. $1,700 is great for that car. That's what got me back to Datsun, away from Porsche, way cheaper to keep up and just as much fun. I just put one of those front spoilers like you have on my 280 and love it. Handles better on the highway at speed.

Do you have the hose that runs to the BPT from the BCDD? It's red in this picture. That gave me trouble with my high idle when I removed the EGR stuff.

Looks much better.