siteunseen

Late to answer with my shade tree figurin out but I used a shop vac on one hose in the core and my finger stuck in the other. It held vacuum so I knew it was good. Bought a new valve and replaced all the hoses now all is well. "I do run my heat from time to time just for a piece of mind." Dang da lank lank dang dang...I'm a grinnin.

Go to bat.com and find an original '73. Tons of pictures on there.

Don't forget the washers on the pumps. Lock washer against the bolt head then flat washer against the aluminum pump.

This is old so the link to zhome is no good but we have the guy that wrote it, @Carl Beck might have time to respond.

If you get it set on TDC then adjust the wires so that #1 wire on the distributor cap matches the brass end of the rotor button then put the rest in order 153624 it should be in time. Here's a good read that helps explain what I'm thinking.

This is about the best stereo I've seen in a 280z. @dmorales-bello

Here's something I remember seeing way back when GrantF was replacing his carpet in a '77. He found these holes behind the seats.

Resting boobs are pillows. Resting boob computers are door holders.

Not positive but maybe? https://zcardepot.com/products/tool-box-lids-interior-trim-panel-set-pair-240z

I'd think an electric pump continually running fuel through but you need to sure it's an open flowing system. The return to the tank should be open allowing fuel to flow non stop. Fuel is cooling when it flows freely. You say manifold heat? Have you thought of replacing that cast iron heat holding exhaust manifold with a low heat ceramic header? You'd need to research this but maybe get the OE manifold coated with ceramic. On second thought a MSA ceramic header would be easy and similar cost as removing the OE and having it coared. I've got them on mine and they do a fantastic job dissipating heat. My carbs are cool when I touch them. The reason I'm on California Datsun is simple. He does half arse work and charges top dollar. Your coolant passages could be clogged up with years of calcium deposits. I've rebuilt 2 motors and those were all clogged up. The casting plugs come out before the block gets vatted, if it did get vatted before the rebuild.

He's got a California Datsun motor and that guy rips off his next door neighbors so I'm going out on a limb here but selling something to a guy in Panama is awfully suspect to me. I've been on here for at least 10 years and Alex has always had problems with his car. He had found an experienced Datsun mechanic 6 months ago maybe? but apparently that relationship was short. I'm carrying on a 3rd person conversation here because he doesn't do what we say that could help HIM. Anyway, God helps those who help themselves so maybe prayer is our or way of helping?

Where's the "Boobs" processing Eiffel Tower?

If I was you I'd buy an infared no contact thermometer and check the temperature of different areas of your car. I do not think you have percolation issues with the fuel. I do not think heat is causing your ill running car. It gets hot where I live too and my car runs fine. Did you ever get a coolant temperature with it idling and the thermostat open? You could get readings from the carbs, the cylinder head and the block, the coil, radiator etc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07WZXK6PT/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

I don't have the skills like Grannyknot does but I did see the short rain channel problem way back when so now I always pop the hatch and dry that area after washing or the rare rained on times. I actually open the hood, hatch and both doors and blow the whole car off with my backpack blower before towel drying. Have you read about the cowl drain behind the passenger's front tire?

So that's sand blasting with water mixed in? There's a lot of benefit it seems like than the waste and mess of doing it dry. I've done some old pieces of small tables to strip the pant off and it works great. Can't wait to figure out adding water. I did this old phone table but ran out of bead. I like it just like this. Reminds me of all the different colors Mom made me paint it.

If you haven't already bought this I highly recommend. I built some dirt bikes and boat motors so I knew the basics but I'd never done a car motor. I bought this book for $20 and didn't have to call my Dad for help at all. I think it whizzed him off? https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030 Great how to book. He makes you want to do it unlike Haynes and Chilton manuals. They suck in my opinion.

Here's some stuff I did with a cheap blasting keg and round glass beads. After I cleaned it it was sealed with Eastwood satin clear.

Have you tried running your Z without a thermostat? They definitely have a purpose but you could try it. Don't get too far from home though in case it over heats on you. Also you could try putting some kind of reducer in the hose coming off the head. It is possible the pump is pulling the coolant through too fast resulting in those black plugs you've shown us. It's a balancing act, not too fast but also not too slow. I still think you could put a thermometer in the radiator while the car is parked, no wind flowing besides the radiator fan and give us a temp reading. No "stuck in traffic" reading. Just sitting still in your garage.

American Southerns mash words together but get their point across. It's too damn hot down here to talk proper, we're in a hurry.

@cgsheen1 @cgsheen

They have a pretty dumb television show about that game. One girl is kinda cute, that's the only reason I watched it for 5 minutes.

Cool song, about sums it up for me.

My first one...

I don't rember capping anything and it seems like only a small amount of fluid came out, just leave the reservoir cap on. I bled the air out for sure afterwards. I would use the dot 3 fluid too. The newer dot 4 doesn't play well in older cars/motorcycles from what all I've read.

That's a 280Z above. Here is the 240Z's...