siteunseen

A pefect Haiku!

In every job that must be done There is an element of fun You find the fun and snap The job's a game In every task you undertake Becomes a piece of cake A lark, a spree It's very clear to see That a spoonful of sugar Helps the medicine go down The medicine go down Medicine go down

My '77 had a loose connections from the EGR tube to the intake manifold and rotted a hole under the intake. It's a recall item according to a restoration book I have. Get a mirror and hold it under the end closet to the windshield and see if you have a hole. I hope you don't but it happened on mine.

I believe he was better at saying what I tried to say, the better the gas the more efficient the motor runs. I'm sure that's common sense but I'm just figuring it out.

I've always heard that it takes more crappy gas to the same distance. Like generic medication, I take more. I got censored! Crappy wasn't my first choice but it's similar.

Exactly what I thought, 1 for you and 1 for her. Then you could pass them on to your kids.

I read it too fast and thought YOU were thinking of trading a series 1 for the ZX.

What a lucky guy to have a friend like you.

Is this a joke? It's not April is it? Oh crap, I was thinking about trading for it! I'm sorry.

Just so happens to be a thread going now on ECU drifting out of specs and a way to tweak it with potentiometer, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/50946-sorry-redundent-help.html. It gets good around post #31. I have one on mine, and for $5 I now have a strong running car. No stumble at all, steady pull.

3,000 RPMs in 4th on jack-stands? Have ever seen Ferris Bueller's Day Off? You're a very brave man!

I'm not positive about this but it seems like I've read that bad injectors will leak and flood the cylinder giving you the sooty plugs. I suppose they could cause the pressure to drop from leaking too, I know after you shut it off, not sure when running though. Google it. When I bought my '77 it had 3 original injectors and 3 replaced ones that were a mint green color, seems like the originals were brown. The ends that spray are plastic and crack after time. My new set are aluminium on the ends. I'm sure the FPR could go bad just never heard of one actually doing it. Captian Obvious, a member on here, has cut one in half. Maybe send him a private message, super nice guy.

Here's some '75 parts on our classifieds, Garage Clean Out, Miscellaneous, $ 1.00

Yes you can, most people mount them closer to the fuel rail on the drivers side. I took mine off when we figured out the problem. Now it's with my other test tools, I'm sure I'll need again.

Bad choice, sorry. Just realized it was some type of yellow/gold. http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/4185627723.html

Here's what I did at first. You can reach across the valve cover and rotate the throttle rod. here's a good detail of parts needed to put together a gauge, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/50946-sorry-redundent-help.html, read post #31. You'll be able to get the "T" and the hose barbs from an auto parts store, seems like I found the T in the brake line fittings cabinet.

Zed Head is right, as usual, when I bought a 240 it would crank and crank. I adjusted the waaaay out of spec valves and it hits on the first bump now. So a good tune up and a new fuel filter up front may be your problem. If it did OK when you first bought it I would buy a fuel filter ASAP. Driving it for a month could have slowly clogged it up and it's taking awhile to get the pressure up.

Your gonna need a bigger box.

Try spraying starter fluid in the throttle body through one of the hoses coming off it, it should have a couple on the accordion hose going in. If it starts up it could be your cold start valve. I think my car cranks better with that small shot of gas from the CSV, I've unplugged it to see.

Get both, I did. I drive the 280 without worrying, long comfortable drives. I "run" the 240 through the city once a month to keep the battery and fluids fresh. I had a couple of Zs in high school, '76 & '78, then a few years ago bought a '77. I'm still working on it but with the help of these fine folks I have a good car. After reading on here for a couple of years I had to have a 240. Totally different cars in my opinion. My 240 feels more like a race car would feel, I imagine. It's light and twitchy and kinda rough riding and not too safe feeling, I hope like hell I never have a wreck in it. Work on the '75 without doing a full blown restore and find yourself a good project gone broke of a 240 and buy it. I bet you'll find room for them both.

These 2 at the top.

Great info! Thank You Fastwoman. Now I can "un-cobble" mine out of the cabin for good.

Switch books! Tom Monroe's is much better.

You should read page 42, "Oil Pump/ Distributor Drive", in your How to Rebuild Nissan Datsun book. When you go to put it back in read pages 136 & 137.

Me too! As soon as I get a paint job, I'll be there. Thanks for the pictures Steve.