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Mine never completely died, just bucked and jumped like it was out of gas, and would always crank and idle. If your car is stalling out and hard to re crank I'd definitely go get a pressure gauge and the brass fittings. And yeah I can flood mine out sitting in the driveway turning it wide open. I believe the one I bought was this one 1M-Ohm Linear Taper Potentiometer : Potentiometers | RadioShack.com.

I can't edit anymore, timed out, anyway my car ran good for just a few seconds here and there. I got excited and rebuilt the whole motor. New fuel rail and fuel injectors, new Bosch fuel pump, new everything! It still had that same stumble after 3 months and $1500. I gave up and left it with a mechanic that worked on them at a Nissan dealership back in the days, he couldn't figure out the problem other than it wasn't getting enough fuel. So I did what I had read helped others and put that tweak knob in the coolant sensor wires. As soon as I did it I went and picked up that mechanic and went for a ride. He was amazed. If you have a Radio Shack close by try it, it's $5 worth of stuff and you unplug the existing wires, put the pot in between the 2 original wires and if it doesn't help you just unplug it and reattach the originals. I wished I had done that 2 years ago but I wouldn't have a new motor or the experiences.

I had an older picture from when I was doing what you're doing. I think I ended up running it off the fuel rail somewhere around the injectors, to the windshield wiper. 5/16" stuff is what you need but not necessarily EFI rated for the long hose to the wiper, it's expensive but you'll always be able to use it if you do buy that type. It seems like I used a worm clamp around the base of the gauge, it's 1/4", to hold the hose to the gauge on that end. If it starts leaking you can see it real good because it's zip tied to your wiper blade . Lowes would have a gauge somewhere, air compressor area or maybe plumbing, anything works for a short test. Pressure will vary but somewhere around 30psi is what you want. Hope this helps. Thanks again Fastwoman, couldn't done it without your help. After a cup of coffe I can honestly say the volume knob or potentometer ran inside while you drive is easier than hooking up a fuel gauge to the wiper. But I'm not trying to add to your worries, a fuel gauge is a must if you've got problems.

There's two square spots, about as big as a Lego on my cam I can put a large Crescent wrench on. Between #4 & #5. Lobes 4 & 5, from the front.

It's nice when things are "easier". I drove mine for a couple of hours a month or so back then stopped for more fuel and had to ask someone for a jump start, people are getting weird about that now, got it back home and realized the alternator belt was super loose. Tightened it up and no more problems.

One more hard learned lesson. I worked on mine for about a week and then my back was killing me so I go raid Pop's medicine cabinet and his eloquent self say's " hell, raise that front end up with jack stands and get it closer to 'ya, quit bending over so much and stay out of my medicine cabinet".

You'll need a solder gun or a wood burner and some solder for the wire on the potenometer. I guess I should've explained the BCDD high hang better. It does it when you push in the clutch at a stop- only for a few seconds then drops down on it's on. If it's staying high, pull up on the gas pedal with the top of your foot and that should pull it back down if it's the throttle plate gummed up or a missing return spring on your linkage and like Zed Head says, that's not as important now. I've owned one Camaro, 1st car too, that had a carburetor and sold it in '88. Ever since they've been fuel injected and I've never used fuel injector cleaner. When you get it running good just run a couple of tanks of high octane fuel. What if the Lucas attacks your newly lined tank? That metal fuel filter up front is pretty damn good. I'm a very slow typer. What Zed Head says above, suggestions and plenty of them from me.

Damn your car looks good!

My '72 has a 4 speed and if I recall right I believe 3,000 RPM is about 70 MPH, 3800 to 4000 is around 80, I THINK! The 2 wires off the Pot go in between the coolant temp wires, don't mess with the Thermotine wires or the temp gauge wire. You'll have to buy the blue crimp electrical connectors, 1 female and 1 male, you can get a pack with them both at Radio Shack too I believe. And do what Chas says and run it inside with you through one of the holes on the drivers side fire wall, speaker wire worked for me. When you figure out if that helps then put it back out under the hood like in Blues pictures. I am going to buy a more precise one like Fastwoman uses, she has one that you turn with a small screwdriver- little bits at a time. The ones at Radio Shack are like volume knobs and can get out of adjust when you forget which way to turn it, after a few beers is when it happens to me.

If your like me and new to these engines, except for driving them, you'll worry your self to death for fear of messing up- which is good to a point then you have to say screw it and just do it. I know these guys talk like it's as easy as changing your shoes, because when you've done them it is. But you still want it done right and on the first go round. My 2 recommendations would be to buy a quart of Acetone and a quart of Automatic Transmission fluid, mix equal parts together in a spray bottle and soak all the nuts and bolts you can find, right off the bat, they need to soak for awhile. It'll penetrate through the rust and grunge and make breaking them loose a lot easier. And don't let the timing chain drop! I used my longest screwdriver but would buy that tool Blue keeps in his Barbie doll suitcase for the next time, MSA sells them.

BCDD is under the throttle body, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/45792-bcdd-rebuild-parts.html, post #7 has the pictures.

Revving up 500rpms at a stop is the BCDD. It has a nut on the bottom side, turn it counterclockwise 1/2 turn and drive, if that doesn't get it to fall back soon enough try another 1/2 turn. My opinion on the other running out of gas feeling is based on my experience with my '77. I dropped the tank and cleaned it as well but the problem was still there, it ran like crap up until 2500rpm and after that it would run strong. A mechanic kept it for about a month and told me the on ly thing he could figure out after doing a full tune up was low fuel pressure. He partily clamped off the return to tank line and raised the pressure that way and said it ran better but still not perfect. I got it back and went to Radio Shack and spent $5 and 30 minutes doing this, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html, it runs sooo good now I've started spending money on it again, wheels and tires and a new stereo. Carpet and seats are next then a paint job.

That's a fine damn site compared to the newer ones.

Now I know why I got a deal on a new Pioneer head unit, this one sucks. Everything is going to 1 knob, so when I turn the volume up it starts the menu options. I have to use the remote control for now, like my touch screen phone I use the arrow keys to navigate. On the good side it has a sub woofer function that works good without an amplifier, so no alternator upgrade, YET!

Thanks, that sounded kinda bad. I was just poking at a Pilgram.

He's 22, so like a girl standing on her head doing the splits.

Welcome to ZTherapy.com. It's a 12 step program, keep coming back!

Walmart has them in my local store, to my surprise, their webpage doesn't show them in stock and calls them a different name brand. STILLWATER DESIGNS 11DS40 4 inch 2-Way DS-Series Speakers: Auto Electronics : Walmart.com

The sound is great from those little things, I highly recommend them (FAIW ). From all I've read I decided I would get that 6x9 rear box from MSA, $149, or try and copy it myself. I think that would be enough for me right now, I'm about deaf from this life I live.

Great looking car too. I ended up getting 205/55-16s after reading that was the most tire our cars would fit without rubbing or scrubbing, and they don't on either car but I'll end up with 15" wheels on my 240.

That's a good looking car you have there. I don't think I've ever seen one like that, it's kinda like mine but reversed, I've got Persimmons Red with white interior and a white rocker stripe. It came with slots like yours too and I still am grinning when I see the Rewinds on there.

Nope, that's it so far, but I do have a pair of Sony 10" X-plode subs I had in a 325is. I like the room more than I like the "Boom" for now. I got lucky too wiring theses in. I found a thread of yours about those little speakers and was expecting to have to run the wire for the drivers side but when I got the panels off there was two disenergrated 4" Alpines, but the wires were fine.

I bought these at Walmart and a 10 pack of rivets from Nissan. Fit perfect below the quarter window in the 280 and sound fantastic, all for $40. Amazon.com: Kicker 11ds40 4 Coaxil Speaker Pair Rohs Compl: Car Electronics

The times I've had in this one! Most embarrassing thing was pumping in a few gallons of gas then going inside to pay and coming back out and it was gone. Panicked and thought someone had driven of in it then started hearing horns blow. It had rolled out in the middle of a four lane highway. Always use the parking brake with stick shifts. I bought it from a friend of my Dad's that couldn't figure out what was wrong so he bought a new Frontier. The plug in the hole in the clutch pedal that depresses the safety switch had dry rotted out and I wrapped some duct tape around it, hooked up jumper cables and started it then drove it home. $400 ten years ago.