siteunseen
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Everything posted by siteunseen
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76 Alternator upgrade wire splicing
I learned some helpful tricks for soldering by watching a Youtube video, stiff wire with alligator clips on the ends was the best one. It was frustrating compared to butt connectors but since it was my injector connectors I didn't want miles of electrical tape looking at me every time I opened the hood.
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E88 head on an N42 block
159.1 kilowatts = 213.356614 horsepower That's strong! N42 have dished pistons?
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Oil pressure ?
Does your '75 have the smaller one or the bigger one that looks like a fuel filter? My late '77 has the bigger one and it reads strong pressure even at idle although it gets lower when the oil is hot at idle. But at 3k RPM it reads 3/4's of the gauge. 1977 NISSAN 280Z Oil Pressure Sender / Switch
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With Ceramic Coated Headers, do I still need the heat shield?
After reading about excessive heat I decided to clean mine and paint them with high heat aluminum rattle can. VHT Flameproof for headers. Some serious heat comes off my header runners but above the shield it's not hot at all, my fuel rail is even cool to the touch, all your wiring and injectors will last longer if you use them I would think. At least use the horizontal one, IMO. You can put it on afterwards if you decide not to use them now, I took mine back off to paint it satin black. And I had to trim the vertical one for mine.
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HELP! Upgraded alternator in my '75 280z but headlights now won't work.
Well I learned something today thanks to ZedHead and google.com/images. :classic:
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HELP! Upgraded alternator in my '75 280z but headlights now won't work.
Where's your other fuse-able link block? Don't they all have 2?
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My "new" Z
Me too! though it was 20 years and a couple of Porsches later. $1,700 is great for that car. That's what got me back to Datsun, away from Porsche, way cheaper to keep up and just as much fun. I just put one of those front spoilers like you have on my 280 and love it. Handles better on the highway at speed.
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Recurring question, no seeming answer...
Do you have the hose that runs to the BPT from the BCDD? It's red in this picture. That gave me trouble with my high idle when I removed the EGR stuff.
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My Project Z.
Looks much better.
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Fusible links - Fuel delivery issue
It helped me realize I'm not the only one! But we've got new parts and new knowledge!
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Sorry to be Redundent - Help
"Pay it forward" has new meaning to me after the help I've received from these nice folks on this forum. I'm always trying to return the help too but it's premature mostly. :stupid:
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1978 280Z - Just interesting to look at. Why a Z is not an investment.
I've got pretty much the same car, runs good just needs a paint job, with only $3,000 out of pocket and $20 of that is in Band-Aids and Neosporin.
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Sorry to be Redundent - Help
Fusible link refresh, the very bottom of the page. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html
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1978 280z No Power to the Starter
Those 2 "Security" screws are a PITA. I used a Dremel to cut a slit in them and then a flat screwdriver to turn them out. One good thing is they're not too tight so just a small slit will give you enough grab to turn them. Leave the phillips head screws in to keep weight off while you work them out. You might could use one of those extractor type drill bits to get them out, I don't have one but do have a Dremel. It's not too hard, just slow, and you have to be extra careful around the wiring.
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80's time capsule ebay
That's the same town my 240 came from, West of I-65. Could be the same guy, him and his Dad were into Z car's.
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Urethane air dam
I bought this from JEGS for $167, Xenon #3125. Took about 4 hours to put it on, I had already removed the front bumper and half of a finger nail a couple of weeks ago. The instructions were as clear as mud so I thought I might make it simple for the 9/74 to '78 one. The instructions say remove the body pan? You only need to remove the 2 small 1/4 panels under the headlight buckets. If you leave the middle skid pan it gives it something to rest on. Though it's not secure and could vibrate I'll end up putting a bolt or screw or something when I drive it again. Squirt the bolts and nuts a day before you start. I used the bottom of the turn signals as a reference for measuring down in the middle. I buggered the holes out a little, a little adjustment before tightening down. It turned out good, I'm happy with the look for now, fiberglass bumper is next!
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Car was just painted......
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Car was just painted......
That looks great! You'll get a lot of looks from that color.
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Just ordered my Rebello 3.0, now what
How old is your radiator? You'll have to remove it, might as well get a new one.
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help front suspension
Eloquent words for an uneloquent question. You must have kids.
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Available '73 240z,,,, was what the private message said.
Don't try and crank it yet, there's things to be done 1st. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/introductions-z-stories/22619-waking-sleeping-beast.html Post #8
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Available '73 240z,,,, was what the private message said.
Maypops! May pop today, may pop tomorrow.
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Available '73 240z,,,, was what the private message said.
That's a great find that you weren't even looking for, wow!
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Steering Rack Disassembly and Refurb
You put a new meaning to refurbing mine, I did about 60% of what you've done and just got some bellows of e-bay. But I'm slowly learning, I've got another one now to do. Thanks for the part number.
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Good Water Pump?
Aisin is a major Toyota supplier. I just bought a water and oil pump for my Camry, all aluminium except the belt gear. Here's one at amazon.com for $13 bucks, Amazon.com: 240z water pump: Automotive