siteunseen

I want to say the seat belts on 240s are a pain in the rear, non-retractable. Once your buckled up you can't even change the radio station. In the 280 I can reach over and get a drink out of my cooler in the passenger's floor board.

The pressure gauge will tell if your injectors of fuel pressure regulator are allowing fuel to pass through losing the "prime" or the psi it needs to crank. When you shut the motor off the gauge should hold at least 20 psi. Do you have an Advance Auto or O'reilly's around? The ones around here have all the fittings to make the gauge work, I didn't get them from a hardware store.

So you've got a 240mm flywheel? I have a 225mm Tilton aluminium that was part of the deal on the 240Z I bought. I am going to put it on my 280 though and have read that a Nissan clutch was about as good as I can get besides some kind of racing clutch. You're happy with yours, that means something to me, thanks.

I want a stronger clutch. Which one did you use?

Down here salt's for Margaritas, we use sand when the roads get slick. Fastwoman you have a winter project that sounds like too much fun. Just this past weekend I installed an 8 camera security system, Night Owl cheapo but it works great, pulled wire for 8 hours in the ceiling of a 40 year old restaurant. It was horrible!

If you have a ZX it could be the TPS causing problems. It switches from IDLE to WideOpenThrottle between 2,000 and 3,000 RPMs. It's the little black box on the drivers side of the throttle body. If you loosen the nut you can adjust it. Sometimes they get wet and start acting up. https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+throttle+position+switch&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=1Z-VUvq7K4PJsQSY74DgBw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=619

A pefect Haiku!

In every job that must be done There is an element of fun You find the fun and snap The job's a game In every task you undertake Becomes a piece of cake A lark, a spree It's very clear to see That a spoonful of sugar Helps the medicine go down The medicine go down Medicine go down

My '77 had a loose connections from the EGR tube to the intake manifold and rotted a hole under the intake. It's a recall item according to a restoration book I have. Get a mirror and hold it under the end closet to the windshield and see if you have a hole. I hope you don't but it happened on mine.

I believe he was better at saying what I tried to say, the better the gas the more efficient the motor runs. I'm sure that's common sense but I'm just figuring it out.

I've always heard that it takes more crappy gas to the same distance. Like generic medication, I take more. I got censored! Crappy wasn't my first choice but it's similar.

Exactly what I thought, 1 for you and 1 for her. Then you could pass them on to your kids.

I read it too fast and thought YOU were thinking of trading a series 1 for the ZX.

What a lucky guy to have a friend like you.

Is this a joke? It's not April is it? Oh crap, I was thinking about trading for it! I'm sorry.

Just so happens to be a thread going now on ECU drifting out of specs and a way to tweak it with potentiometer, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/50946-sorry-redundent-help.html. It gets good around post #31. I have one on mine, and for $5 I now have a strong running car. No stumble at all, steady pull.

3,000 RPMs in 4th on jack-stands? Have ever seen Ferris Bueller's Day Off? You're a very brave man!

I'm not positive about this but it seems like I've read that bad injectors will leak and flood the cylinder giving you the sooty plugs. I suppose they could cause the pressure to drop from leaking too, I know after you shut it off, not sure when running though. Google it. When I bought my '77 it had 3 original injectors and 3 replaced ones that were a mint green color, seems like the originals were brown. The ends that spray are plastic and crack after time. My new set are aluminium on the ends. I'm sure the FPR could go bad just never heard of one actually doing it. Captian Obvious, a member on here, has cut one in half. Maybe send him a private message, super nice guy.

Here's some '75 parts on our classifieds, Garage Clean Out, Miscellaneous, $ 1.00

Yes you can, most people mount them closer to the fuel rail on the drivers side. I took mine off when we figured out the problem. Now it's with my other test tools, I'm sure I'll need again.

Bad choice, sorry. Just realized it was some type of yellow/gold. http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/4185627723.html

Here's what I did at first. You can reach across the valve cover and rotate the throttle rod. here's a good detail of parts needed to put together a gauge, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/50946-sorry-redundent-help.html, read post #31. You'll be able to get the "T" and the hose barbs from an auto parts store, seems like I found the T in the brake line fittings cabinet.

Zed Head is right, as usual, when I bought a 240 it would crank and crank. I adjusted the waaaay out of spec valves and it hits on the first bump now. So a good tune up and a new fuel filter up front may be your problem. If it did OK when you first bought it I would buy a fuel filter ASAP. Driving it for a month could have slowly clogged it up and it's taking awhile to get the pressure up.

Your gonna need a bigger box.

Try spraying starter fluid in the throttle body through one of the hoses coming off it, it should have a couple on the accordion hose going in. If it starts up it could be your cold start valve. I think my car cranks better with that small shot of gas from the CSV, I've unplugged it to see.