siteunseen

I hope mine looks that good when I can afford the re-paint. Like a tomato, they look orange in the bright light then red in lesser lighting. I've never seen a persimmon.

I would think a TURBO would be easiest but if your wanting more do the Chevrolet LS1 conversion. https://www.google.com/search?q=LS1+in+280ZX&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=LS1+in+280ZX&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.11355j0&sourceid=chrome&espvd=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8#es_sm=93&q=LS1+in+280ZX+

Tom Monroe says on page 129, L24, 26 and 28 final torque of 61 ft-lbs. That's a Fel-Pro gasket too.

I skipped over this thread thinking it was about the difference in 87 octane and 93.:stupid: I remembered reading this before I put the potentiometer in coolant sensor line thinking I might get myself one, Simple Digital System EM-5, I like what Lenny's doing better though. He's a Z man.

Here's another Zombie Thread that may shed some light on your quest, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/47447-help-me-understand-aar-please.html I changed my hoses to the '78 configuration too, it keeps the AAR cleaner.

I've figured out, after sleeping on the floor, to raise mine up with jack-stands a couple of feet. 6 ft. tall bent down to 3 ft. takes the fun out of working on mine.

I like that other "Z" too, '70 split bumper Camaro Z28.

I found this, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/41728-speedometer-not-working.html, maybe something there that is useful?

That was a great trade for you! $1,000 bike for at least a $1,500 car, probably more. I wish they made a power band exhaust for these little cars, I guess that would be a TURBO. :stupid: Find your color here, 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery

Congratulations on your 1st one, happy days ahead if you read everything you can and take it slow on these old cars, things break easy. You could also check all the fuses in the passengers side foot well fuse box and the fusible links in front of the battery, 4 wires under plastic caps, just to be sure. Here's another helpful Tech Tip, courtesy of Atlantic Z's, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Funny you posted this today. I bought my 240Z in January and only drove it the first month I had it, I wanted to pay it off before driving it too much in case I decided I couldn't keep it. Yesterday, Monday was the first time I have driven it to work while we were open, too hot in the Deep South until now. I'm usually the first to get there and parked where I normally park my Camry. An hour later I went outside and there was a Ford Expedition on one side and a newer Ford F-150 4 door truck on the other. My roof was lower than the bottom of their windows! Everybody started calling it my Barbie Car or said it looked like a Go Cart. The restaurant I'm working at is next to local Nissan Dealership. 3 salesmen came over looking at it and snapping phone pictures. Today I parked away from those big a$$ cars because their door would bust out my windows. Those salesmen were bringing customers over to look at it all morning. Great fun owning these cars.

Thank you, I learn something new everyday on classiczcars.com.

I'm not understanding the colors on the chart, very neat by the way Mr Moore. I've got a D6K8-22, vacuum advance 30 and 57 total advance. It's in the RED section. Is that bad? Should I get one that's in the YELLOW? I'm installing it in a '77 2.8 FI with N42 Head. Thanks for thread, I thought all E12-80's were the same. OK I just saw that the RED was higher and maybe harmful to my motors health.

You'll have to get it to idle at about 800 RPM to set it with a light. You could get the basic setting here; http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

You're at the right place, come on in. Find out which # you have, should be E31 or E88 I think. Here's something that might help; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/rally-racing/2935-e31-vs-e88-intake.html

https://www.google.com/webhp?source=search_app#q=weber+32%2F36+tuning

According to their web page Walmart and Tractor Supply have it in my area for a little less than $5 a quart.

Looks like my #305 from the picture so I think it looks great! Can't wait to see the whole car sprayed.

I broke a bolt extractor getting a broken exhaust stud out from under the thermostat housing on the head. A drill bit wouldn't even scratch it so I had to get a bolt welded onto it too then it backed out with the remnants of the old stud with it. A lot of trouble but that's the only way.

Some good news for sure. Take care out there in Texas. Cliff

I sure wish I had the good sense to that! Would've saved me lots of $$$$.

I'll mention something but on tip toes, I personally would throw the MSA header stud kit hex nuts in the trash. Something about them spinning down to easily and no lock washers to keep them from spinning back off. Conical nuts or slightly out of round is what's needed, in MY opinion.

Pull the rear drums off, it's easy, tap them with a hammer if they won't slide off. There is an adjustment for the E-brake that may need loosening/tightening. You may find metal on metal too, worn brake shoes. Mine were a mess when I bought the car. I don't think the previous owner had ever touched the rears. Here's something to read on the door hinge pins and worn out bushing that can let the door drop down and not meet the striker at a level plane. It says ball and socket something or the other but it's actually door hinges Z Tech Tips Ball and Socket Compression Rod (AtlanticZ.ca)

That's what I read about the Pacesetters, flange doesn't match the intake thickness and they share those four studs in the middle. And Msa's packing guys suck, I had to send mine back after e-mailing pictures of the scratched ceramic coating on the outer most tube, it was sticking out of the box at least a 1/2".

Q: What kind of music do the Pilgrims like? A: Plymouth Rock in a Honda