siteunseen

https://www.google.com/search?q=905+red+240z&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=MnXGUpO8IIqhkQf7-4HgCg&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1280&bih=619#q=905+red+240z&tbm=isch&imgdii=_

Whether it's from getting older or learning to say NO, my anxiety level has dropped like an airplane. In 2014 I want it completely gone, then the beer should follow- hopefully. Happy New Year to all Z Owners.

I've figured out "what's in the back". http://www.coleman.com/product/powerchilltrade-40-quart-thermoelectric-cooler/3000001497?contextCategory=8570#.UsMg4vRDuHw

If you have time, read this tech tip on your "combo Switch". Something might ding a bell in your head. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf And unless this your only night time ride, don't do the tin foil wrapped fuse. You'll end up causing more problems.

Crank your car inside the garage, with the garage door opened a little at least, walk to the front passengers side and grab the fuel line coming from the metal fuel filter. Try and pinch it together. If you can you don't have enough fuel pressure.

You've probably got a loose bulb or wire in one of the fixtures. Take the screws out and remove the lenses for a look.

I used a section of the stiffest welding wire I could find to punch through the tank liner that had hardened up in those.

Hello, my name is John and I have a Z car problem. HELLO JOHN! Where do I leave my sign in card?

Gorilla tape a volt meter to the passenger's side windshield and go for a cruise. Or get 6 ft. of speaker wire, wrap the ends on your battery terminals, run it through the window and tape the ends to a volt meter sitting in the passenger's seat. But don't text and drive!

Anybody in Virginia feeling the Christmas spirit still? Loan this man an AFM.

Buy a shipping container, park your car in the living room.

Where you bought the paint or any other paint supply that has the brand you have. Different manufacturers use different tint colors. Get a 1/4 of the formula added to what you have, if you want it more distinct add another 1/4. Don't use all your leftover paint, you'll need it for touch ups. Maybe a pint would be enough?

Could the timing be off? Can you have someone cranking while you move the distributor around? Are the wires in the right order, 153624? https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+firing+order&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&espv=210&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=qb26UtqUFo6SkQeY4YHoBA&ved=0CCsQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=619#imgdii=_

Could be 517, Beige Metallic.

That's a nice car and not too rusty for being as old as it is. You probably should replace all the rubber associated with the suspension and steering components before undercoating. Clean all the electrical connections you can, the engine bay looks untouched so they're most likely corroded. Here's a helpful link, Tech Tips What's the color code number by the radiator? Looks like a yellow color. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/

It looks like the wheel at the top of the web page under the facebook connect button, the very top where your notifications and username is and log out buttons.

I wondered what that was! So you can't call somebody a ****head?

Ghost is right, I can hardly see it but it does look good. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/images/dto_garage/users/15388/1383.jpg

On your brake light issue when you unplug the bullet connector does the light go off? Mine did and I just left it unplugged, I think it's a safety switch for low fluid that goes bad. Just make sure the reservoirs are full when you pop the hood every now and then.

On my '77 the brake light stayed on too. There's a wire under the master cylinders I unplugged and now it stays off until I pull up the E brake. Read post #14, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/29292-brake-light-wont-go-off.html.

I think you have a car that's like my dog. Different everyday, but I love it.

Neato mosquito! I found my local dealer from 1971 on this thread, Datsun/ AMC dealership. I remember a joke too. Guy takes his foreign car in for repair and the mechanic says "you want it Datsoon?"

When I was trying to figure out my mid range stumble I thought it was the TPS at first, turned out to be the coolant temp tweak fixed it. If you pop the cover off and watch those vanes while working the throttle rod you can see if its making contact when it should and coming off the contacts when it should. I pointed a camera at my tach and put the monitor on the roof when I did mine. Maybe you could get someone to sit in your car and hold it at the right RPM's? I cleaned the contact points with a fingernail file, the metal kind as to not git gritty crap inside there like sandpaper kind.

That's right at the range the the Throttle Position Switch comes off the contacts. Look at this, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html Uhm, I was a little off but not too bad. "In addition, the ECU also senses when the driver removes foot from accelerator and activates a "coasting mode" aka "Fuel Cut Mode". When the RPM is above 3200rpm and the TPS is in idle position, the ECU cuts off fuel until the RPM's drop below 2800." Maybe your TPS needs adjusting? Somebody on here recently washed their engine bay and got the thing wet and had similar problems.

I think it's the M30 engine that is similar to the Z's L Series engine, straight 6 with overhead cam and timing chain. I had a '89 325is that I drove into pieces, best car I've ever owned, sold it in 2010 with over 300K on it. It had a cast iron block like the Z's have. Nissan parts are so much cheaper than BMW's it makes owning one or more a lot easier to do, for me anyway. You'll see that a lot of the folks on here also have Beamers. That car is sort of a mystery to me, I heard it was in Atlanta but someone said otherwise. Gray with white stripes and flared fenders to accommodate those wheels, beautiful. It's a 240Z, find you one!