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I ran a low pressure fuel line from the '78 or newer FPR, only 1 inlet & 1 out; $30 from rockauto.com, to the return hardline without trimming or moving it. The fuel rail was fairly easy and $50 bucks is all it cost but I already had the 1/4" tap and borrowed a drill press. Oh yeah the cost: $20 for the aluminium fuel rail stock of ebay, Raw Dash 6 Fuel Rail Extrusion Sold by The Foot RMR 019 | eBay, I bought 2 feet. The 3/8" tap for the ends cost $10 from a local plumbing supply house. All the fittings, 1/2" for the ends and 5/16" for the 6 injectors plus a tube of high temp thread sealant from Permatex was the other $20. Most important thing was making sure everything stays level in the drill press when drilling the holes and your bench vise when your tapping the threads. I'll try and find the measurments for the holes. Post #21, Thanks again to Willoughby, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-systems-s30/43897-make-fuel-rail.html I didn't put in a barb for the CSV, ran a "T" off the back end, left to the FPR and right to the CSV. Find somebody with taps & drill bits.

Well after a year without red gas I guess i should delete that filter and give it to my guitar picking friend, I don't stay lucky too long. Maybe I'll buy myself a guit-fiddle.

I cleaned my gas tank and lined it with Red Kote, that's the reason for that filter, to look for red gas. I guess I've been lucky with those glass filters because I've had them on everything from boats to lawnmowers and have never had a leak but I take care as to not offer any metal to glass contact, Zip-ties. As for the pressure rating I've never seen anything on the packages and that one has been dry since I first cranked it on August 8th, '12. I'm overly cautious inside my garage because I live above it and am constantly checking for leaks and smelling for them too. That glass is thick and according to my buddy that plays they make a good guitar slide for 1/4 of the price at a music shop.

Thanks Fastwoman for the info and part #s. I was initially trying this out to see if it's what was wrong with my stumble at lower RPMs so I ran it into the cabin to play with while driving, $5 from a local Radio Shack. Well it was exactly my problem! Now I will buy one like you say and permanently mount it inline with the coolant temp sensor wires above the intake. I've got that 240 paid off and can now finish my 280 with new interior and a sound system so the potentiometer knob I have in my console volume hole has got to go. Well after re-reading everything I'm still wired up like Blue's so CW=more fuel, CCW=less fuel. From Tech Tip " Note: the center and shorted pins on the pot are connected to the sensor and the other pin is connected to the ECU if you want to add more fuel by turning the pot clockwise."

Here you go. I've got more too. It's not pretty but it works.

I did solider those together so do think I'm right in more volume = more fuel? I know all I have to do is read the plugs after a few drives but I'm lazy and would rather type in the A/C than pull the plugs in my hot arse garage.

Walmart had one so I bought them both, G3 & G2. G3 is 3/8's G2 is 5/16's. My 280 tank has a bigger supply so the G3 is it but on the 240 it's 5/16's and the G2 fit like a mother's hug, lovingly tight!

I apologize madkaw, it's my FI '77. By what I read in the Tech Tip is to turn the pot clockwise for more fuel, think of a volume knob on your stereo, so lefty loosey would turn my fuel supply/volume down? I'm about to go for a rip and see. Wade it's Twurk not Twerk, google "Ying Yang Twins Thug Walkin'". Songs 3, 11 & 12.

So if I understand this Tech Tip courtesy of Blue, counter clockwise leans it? Clockwise richens? Mine is running really good and temp is cooler, gets great gas mileage but my plugs might be a little dark. So I think I should turn it counter clockwise just a scratch, correct? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

I pulled the cover off my '77 that only has about 1500 miles on a newly rebuilt motor, also looked at the one I took off my 240 about a month ago. It has to be so close that the oil is slinging against the cover and making those footprints like Zkars says. I use VR1 and my valve cover didn't look like that when I put the motor together back in September '12. Sorry about that Hardway.

My Camry has a huge steel bar behind that Styrofoam.

Squirt that turn signal switch with some electrical cleaning spray, it worked for me. The car hadn't made a turn in quite a few years.

Or these Wheel Details - Discount Tire Direct

Wow that paint is beautiful! I'd have to tape a mirror to mine to get a reflection like that. Is it PPG paint? That be a good advertisement for them.

It was Hardway's valve cover.

Could you try and jump start it? I mean use jumper cables and another battery.

I remember somebody's doing that, the tensioner or one of the side guides caused it, maybe Grant with the yellow '77?

Try another battery charger.

You'll be back sniffing gas in no time.

Not bad at all! Great idea too.

I use the brake booster hose bung, it's bigger and easy to get to.

Your the "Spoiler" :classic:. I wouldn't have noticed had you not pointed those out! Still can't tell on the rear spoiler but if you say it's plywood it's plywood. Classic Pit Crew thinking.

In 1987 my girlfriend and myself got hit in the drivers door of a '78 I had. After the lady hit us we hit a tree. We had been swimming and still had on wet clothes and were wearing our seat belts. Her window was up and she busted it with the side of her head, sitting so low was what helped. I busted up the console then bent the steering wheel when we hit the tree. Panicked from the blood coming from her head I got her out of the car and sat her down right on top of an ant pile. We always looked back at the ant stings being the worst from that wreck. Pretty safe in the cocoon I think. EDIT; Now that I've been over and under a 240Z I think it'll be the death of me but it's better than riding motorcycles, which I've quit thanks to the Z's.

You sir are a classic, lurking in the shadows at it's very best!

Here's a company that does L motor cams. Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts