siteunseen

Congrats on 1,000 post Captain, 999 were probably helping one of us. There's a reason everyone needs at least 2, no spare parts. That's a good idea Madkaw.

I put the original steel wheels and hubcaps on my 240. They need repainting but I like them better. It makes the car look smaller.

I just found that old thread with those pictures. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/12771-rear-hatch-hinge-seals-2.html Seems like the part number goes to 1973. Those pictures are of my '77 280, I'm about to go look at the '72 240. I was WAY off, sorry.

I'm confused too. I don't know which gasket your referring to but here are more pictures. Hope that they help. OK, your talking about seals not rubber gasket for weather stripping.

Here's mine, '72.

The 2 sided with the top under the hatch is NOT on my 240 or 280, both are black rubber. Looks like they would have been put on after painting. it has original paint. My 240 looks the same.

It does it when downshifting above 3k? Maybe something loosened up on you exhaust? Mine has a buzz coming from the circle Z emblem behind the 1/4 glass, I'll pull it out someday, it's annoying as hell.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

I knew it when she did it. My Mom shouldn't have thrown away my Silly Puddy just because I's eating it. Way to go Miller Time!

Here's something to look at while TCB'ing http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/46186-installing-timing-chain-when-rebuilding-motor-stand.html Courtesy of Blue.

I flipped the switch over today. Seems much more responsive to my foot against the gas pedal.

She might be experiencing coolant temp drift in her ECU? That's the Big Bang Theory for me.

There's a lot of people that have had the same thing happen. You or your daughter should google different phrases and click on images too. I've read that you should be careful with the head gasket when removing/replacing the front cover while the head is still on. I would take that inspection plate off first just to see what you can, front of the head with 3 bolts, you might figure out a way without taking off the front cover. Hopefully you might see a way after a few cold dogs and discussing it with your helpful neighbors. We'll be here waiting to help. Blue's the Man by the way, and you've got his attention/sympathy.

Dale and Boomhauer are your neighbors too? Those beers are better with grease on them. I've read on other sites, where people really blow there own whistles, that it could be put back with a long screwdriver. After putting a new timing kit on when I rebuilt mine I don't think there's anyway to do it but I'm amazed at some things I've seen done to these old cars. Google might find something on that, I could not. That car has found it's Mechanic and vice versa.

I put this Exedy in mine EXEDY 06009 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive It shifts nice and smooth but I don't know if it's by "design" or not but I can't chirp the tires between 1st & 2nd like my previous 2 Z's would do fairly easily. I have 1500 miles on a good rebuild that runs strong. Maybe it's the cheapest Exedy clutch I could afford at the time? Maybe new tires? Maybe I'm getting old! Whichever, learn from my mistake and spend some extra $$

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/46362-my-datsun-spirit-l28-build-4.html Post #86

The good thing is the being dis-interested doesn't last long.

I use the remote starter on hot valve adjustment, I leave the plugs in though because it does spin too fast without them. I guess I'm the only dumb butt on here that's done it but the first few times I pointed the lobes straight up without considering the engine is leaning to the passengers side. I finally made center marks on the cam towers with a Sharpie to go by. When I did my compression test, spark plugs out now, for the first time I didn't have the throttle plate open then I read it should be so I used a zippy-tie or 2 where the linkage starts on the firewall to hold it open, I guess a brick would've been too easy, it raised my numbers and I'm sorry I don't remember which but it was 10 or 20 lbs on each, probably 10, but like Chas says it's the difference between them that's important, gauges lose their accuracy after you drop them a few times :stupid:. Buy a vacuum gauge while your buying, they are a lot of fun. The remote starter goes straight to the battery and starter, it won't turn on anything but the starter. Oh yea, you'll definately need a 17mm crows foot socket for the valve adjustment. Autozone has a metric set cheap and they also sale the remote starter cheap. I ordered my vacuum gauge from walmart.com, it will tell a lot about your motors worn-outness.

Sorry I couldn't find the thread on those. Seems like LeonV talked about one.

I didn't on mine, just cleaned the flywheel with steel wool and some fine grit sandpaper. Took the shine off the mating surface.

I feel like I just had a beer with you guys. Thank you.

Here you go, step by step with pictures...http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/articles-our-members/42420-77-280z-head-removal-%5Bstep-step-photos%5D.html

On mine there's 3 sensors and a plugged hole, one of the one's your asking would be to the temp. gauge, small wire with a female bullet type connector. here's some pictures that may help...https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=280z+thermostat+housing&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45107431,d.eWU&biw=1280&bih=620&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=AY5mUYuvFor49QSkoYH4BQ#imgrc=_

Thank you Jeff, I don't want to mess with the 240, it's part of my 401K. EDIT: Thank you too Steve, I wasn't sure about the pump. I've got Weber's and will probably get a Holley Blue.

Could I put a carbureted motor in my '77 280 and disconnect the ECU and harness, leaving it in the car? Does the ECU control more than the engine?