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What should I buy first? And anybody that has the "How to Modify the L motor" does it have any info on a F54 block with E31 head? And triple Webers? Thanks in advance for any replies.

I'll guess and say that is some of the a/c stuff. It says "A.R.A" at the top then a "TEMP" knob and a switch below that with "COOL" on top and "HEAT" on the bottom side of the switch. I'd like to find a wooden steering wheel and possibly wooden shift knob someday but the Momo wheel and the ZX shifter are a nice change from the 280's set up for now. I'm going to be taking a lot of before pictures on this car, didn't on the 280 and regret it now, and I'll put them on here for some more insight from those that know. Boy was I out of my comfort zone when I bought this one. Didn't know anything except what I had read on here over the past year. The F54 and E31 were a big selling point from the owner and I had no idea about anything other than N42s. I'm not a quick decision person, I have to think about stuff and then when I make up my mind it's usually too late. So maybe 2013's going to be my year! Thanks everybody. Oh yea, I found the fuse box. It's under the radio!

I can't tell you for sure but it's not perfect so I'm hoping it's the original. The ONLY light not working is the dome light. Choke light, all dash lights, map light, exterior lights, rear defog light, help light in the engine bay also works and it has a new original am/fm radio that works too. Sounds like it only has 1 speaker though. 2 small cracks in the dash topside. Also has the original a/c system but the heater core is bypassed, not sure why, probably leaks. Long row to hoe but I'm ready to start hoeing! Oh and it has a Treasure Island, Florida sticker on the windshield from 1981 and a faded out Grateful Dead sticker on the hatch glass.

This 240Z is a lot peppier than my 280Z. Not as fast but quicker if that makes sense. Could that be the weight difference? Also what grade fuel should I run in the '72 240, highest octane or lower? Stock motor with the dome carburetors. Thanks for any responses. I promise not to flog everybody with questions right away. Sprinkle a few in over time.

The '72 I just bought didn't have a title. Seller said before 1974 a bill of sale is all you need. Going to Courthouse to get a tag tomorrow and I'll let you know what happens.

Thank You! everybody for the reassurance, I made a quick decision and am glad I did by everybody's responses. This is a great group of Z car friends.

Have a wrecker service say it was abandoned, they picked it up and after 90 days no one claimed it then they get the title and sell the vehicle for storage fees. I've had one do it for me, paid him $100 to lie but it was a clean car. That's in Alabama though, probably a little smarter in Illinois.

I got this little baby today, paid down on it, and a pretty hot motor I think. It's not the original paint but has very little rust. Interior is nice too. Has the original motor the guy did a light rebuild when he bought it in Tennessee, 20,000 miles ago. It runs very good and cranked right up without choking. We drove it, got it up to 90 mph and no steering wheel shake. Got back to his shop and turned it off then cranked right back up. Has a whole motor, needs assembling though - can't wait!, F54 block painted the same as the oil pan, E31 head with stainless 280 intake valves, 3 Weber 40mm carbs with a Canon intake, aluminium flywheel, gaskets and rings and bearings, ARP rod cap bolts and head bolts, '81 5 speed tranny, complete MSA weather stripping kit. Got me a nice project motor and a running car. Also found the painter for my '77. Thank You Mr. Dill! If there's anything I can do for you let me know, I owe you big time!

How long since you've changed the fuel filter by the radiator?

Dkauper there's a group of guys from Georgia that met up in Carollton this past October, I think, then drove over to Leeds and had Barbers rented just for their Z club. I wanted to go but mine wasn't quite ready so I missed out on that. I guess it's Atlanta Z club or Georgia Z's, SteveJ from post #2 is a member. I'll be ready next time, I'm wanting to get on that track. Does yours have the talking lady? Digital dash? I had a '82 many years ago, great cars.

Hey buddy! I live in Gadsden, about an hour north up I-59. I've read some post from Mobile and some guy with a sweet 240 lives in Glencoe which is real close to me. There's a couple of guys from Birmingham too. They'll pop up sooner or later. There's a lot of ZX's on zcar.com but tread lightly, they can be ****s. Whoa, I got censored!

Sounds like it's losing fuel pressure. Could be leaky fuel injector tips or the fuel pressure regulator is going bad. You need a gauge on a fuel line to tell.

I did this http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html to my '77 instead of the adjustable fuel pressure regulator and it fixed my problem. ZedHead suggested putting it inside the car for adjusting while driving and that worked out really good. My mechanic friend kept my car for 4 weeks and couldn't figure out the problem, ZedHead and Fastwoman got it in 5 minutes. He clamped off the return line to increase fuel pressure in the system and thought raising the pressure to 45lbs would fix the stumble. $5 from Radio Shack and it runs better than ever now.

Happy New Year everybody and thank you so much for all the help you all have given me. I'll try and pass on the info I've gathered here to the other folks. WATCH OUT!!!

I rebuilt mine with a book from Amazon.com. How to Rebuild your L series motor by Tom Monroe. A little under a $1000 for all new parts except pistons and rods, the crank and the block. Bought the best sounding exhaust and header from MSA, new polyurethane bushings, all new fuel injectors and on and on. Really an easy motor to work with and I learned a lot about my car, I'll keep it as long as I have working legs, it's a manual tranny. My rambling point is for less than $2000 I've got as new a '77 as anybody would want, needs painting though. Is that $.02 worth?

Maybe the radiator shop put coolant in itLOL

Are you punishing him for some reason? '95 Taurus Wagon?

That's not too bad. Thanks for the info.

I used a lot of foam oven cleaner from walmart, their brand's cheaper, on the outside. My valve train looked like yours, an ashtray. I put a 1/2" piece of clear tubing in my shop vac hose and sucked up the loose stuff, found a broken off head bolt in that crap. Wait until you see inside your oil pan! Then oil changes, lot's of them. Maybe the easiest car ever for changing oil. And welcome to the club. We love to see pictures of other Z's. Cliff

You could widen the round metal end under the rubber cap on the coil wire, it has a split. Or buy a new set of NGK blue plug wires, there will be a coil wire in the set also. You need a fuel pressure gauge for sure. Install it in the fuel line after the filter and before the fuel rail in the engine bay. Get one that goes to at least 60psi and you'll have to buy the fittings to make a "T" for it. Many ways to test things with that. Clamp the fuel hose after the gauge and you can tell if your pump is good, should go up to about 50psi. Remove the vacuum hose off the FPR and it should raise the psi's if the FPR is functioning right. A very smart man on this forum told me to put my gauge on 5ft of hose and zip tie it to the drivers side wiper blade so you can read it while driving. Note the pressure when your accelerating, coasting, and any other situations. There's a lot to testing these old cars but it's all been done 1000 times and talked about on this forum to make it easier. Good luck over the Holidays. It's a good excuse to get out of the house. Could you just have someone sit in the car and watch the tach while you test vacuum readings?

That canister is the coil, if it doesn't fit snug it's probably not the original one, not a problem though. Standing at the drivers side front tire looking at the motor the Fuel Pressure Regulator will be in the center of the fuel rail, tube that goes to all the injectors, it's about the size of a 5oz cup with a small hose for vacuum and 2 or 3 fuel hoses connected to. In this picture it's about 10" down from the "C" on the valve cover. Small can looking thing with a lip around the center where it is joined together. Hope that's understandable, little fuzzy this morning. Yes that coil has to be plugged into the center of the distributor cap, very important. I've seen zip-ties around that connection to keep it on the coil. I got my vacuum gauge kit from walmart.com and would try and borrow a dwell meter, you want use it too much. I put a camera inside showing my tach gauge through a tv on top of my car.

Which struts did you use? That's next on my 10 page punch list then I can get some nice wheels and tires. Thanks

Vacuum gauge help http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/. Search this forum for "yogurt cup test" for an easy way to find leaks by yourself.

I'm not a mechanic or a doctor but I would recommend an epidural for the job if your going to do it yourself.

Most likely.