siteunseen

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08j08/40-3633 Or SEM interior paint https://www.google.com/search?q=sem+interior+paint&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=R9mKYYO9GcuSwbkPi4CZsAU&oq=sem+interpaint+products&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAEYATIFCAAQzQIyBQgAEM0COgQIABBHOgQIABANOgYIABANEB46BQgAEIYDUPQOWOUgYM0-aABwAXgAgAHLAYgBtgaSAQUwLjQuMZgBAKABAcgBCMABAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

You've most likely seen this before Mr Zkars but for the later guys I thought I'd post them again. It's not rust as it wouldn't stick to a magnet just 20 year old gas that lost it's octane.

No more copper BP6ES plugs from what I'm seeing. Nickel instead of copper.

Read post 12. I think I went .45 or .44 in the end. Oh yeah, bp6 in both my Zs. Copper tips.

I agree. I get new ideas on this forum everyday.

Here's a good read on cooling the air with a 90s Honda condenser. Post #5.

I guess you guys are on LOW speed, right? I'd hate to read about "a new way of burning down my shop".

You can't fire the good ones. He'll learn and do even better.

You have way more skills than i do, we all know that, going that deep. I can't even imagine how I would get the flange that hot then back on a cold head without pulling the whole left side off. "Take my wife from me please". I'm thinking the ambient temp aluminum head's threads will allow me a bit more tightening down. I'm sure it'll do it again sooner or later but I may go with 2 gaskets? Zcardepot.com has the copper diamond ports with injector holes I could probably Dremel out to match the square ports on my N42. Uh...I'm not so sure that's doable now after seeing how close I'd be to the stud holes. Oh well Yellowstone season premire in a minute. Time to veg and watch the Duttons raise hell.

I'm gonna try cold. I damn sure don't want to replace the gasket. I can only hear it with the hood open and idiling. My anxiety can't get any worse so I'll live with it if I have to.

I use the Crane PS20 for my ZX E12-80 distributor on my 240. I think it's 1.3??? It did not fit the bracket but a piece of rubber underneath out of sight worked great for a shim. Very happy since 2016 conversion of the newer distributor. Bigger gap for the plugs too.

I've noticed a "tick" on my 280 with a 6 to 1 header. Got my hose stethoscope and found the area is under the flange between #2 & #3. My question, should I try tightening the nuts while the motor is cold or hot? You guys know more about the science of metal microstructure than me so please advise. Thanks for any replies. Cliff

Here's something I would read if I was doing my seats.

Toilet in the cockpit. A little fun wordplay there.

Foot in mouth, figuratively. The knob adjust the nozzle into the needle so I am wrong. SORRY!

Just read Marks comments, sorry if I've confused the conversation but I always think about the needle going up or down into the jet that determines the amount of fuel/air. The jet screws in and doesn't move. The needle is adjusted with the knobs. Right Mark? Should I try getting my foot in my mouth? I'm not sure I can do that move anymore.

It's counter clockwise. You turn them clockwise to raise them, less fuel. Counter clockwise to lower the needle, more fuel. The insructions say turn them clockwise towards the passenger's side until snug then counter clockwise towards the driver's side to 3 full turns for the base setting. If the plugs are white go down to 3.5 turns counter clockwise and so on, do half turns for the fine tuning. Think of laying under the car when turning the knobs. Right would be towards the passenger's side raising the needle which fills up the tube with more needle there by lessening the fuel. Hope that makes sense.

Here's a good read, couldn't find a photo of the actual cam washer it rides on. Yes you can take the valve cover off and see it riding on the lopsided eccentric I think it's called on the nose of the cam.

It's been a long time but I remember people telling me the header would melt the PCV hose coming off the bottom of the intake to the block. I cut my shield to fit my 6 to 1 coated header. Maybe someone could chime in with better knowledge on that?

Crack the drain on bottom of the radiator and run clean water through the top to flush out anything. It'll run hot on 1st start for a minute or two then the temp will start to come down when all the new starts to wear in. Keep the hose running through during that part, as per Tom Monroe's How to book.

Don't forget the spacer between the head and the pump.

I'll get my wooden shoes polished up and come for a visit to see this girl. You know her, right?

You're crusin for a brusin with miss ferg I'd bet. You best take her on one helluva vacation when the Z is done. Hawaii is nice anytime of year, no excuses Bub.

That's the hose people do "cold air intakes"? I've seen that before.

That looks good Ferg! I've had a few cold ones too so we're looking through the same goggles as this guy.