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Are you supposed to hold open the throttle flap when you check compression? I'd like to check mine too.

New 240Z? That's an oxymoron.

You've got good taste in cars Austin.

I put stainless braided lines from the hard line to the caliper and the only thing that worked was a small set of Irwin Vise Grips. After you round them off with the 10mm you'll always be able to use the Vise Grips.

I think the mixture would determine the time left in the tank, acid to water I mean. I think I did 50/50 for less than an hour but mine wasn't too bad and that's pretty strong. Did you ever get a good picture?

I did spray mine inside and out at a car wash. My Dad put a piece of chain and some old nuts and bolts in his truck tank when we did it a month or so ago. It had some terrible rusty flakes in it, '55 Chevy with a long skinny tank behind the seat. Tape all the openings up but when your through, before the coating dries completely, blow all the tubes clear with an air compressor. That clears out the pick up tube. I chose to do 2 coats but in hindsight the acid did such a good job I needed just 1. If yours comes out as good I would pour the whole qt. of Red Kote in and roll it around by hand to coat everywhere then hang it so it'll drain out, seems like there where small holes around the perimeter of the tank, maybe 4?, where it's welded together that work good for the hooks on the straps. That stuff dries fast so turn off your phone. When you have drained out all you can, most through the fill hole, that drain plug hole isn't big enough for this stuff, put it in the sun and keep rotating it. I wish I had left mine resting on the top. Some of those channels going to the drain hole will hold it causing thick spots. After rinsing all the soda out with your hose pipe I would put at least a half of a qt. of denatured alcohol and slosh that around. It will evaporate all the moisture from the tank and hit it with a leaf blower and then Red Kote. Get a throw away funnel and cut most of the stem off, it'll come in handy when pouring the stuff in the tank. If your smart enough to keep your pool up with acid and baking soda this will be easy. There's just a lot of steps to get it right.

I used red kote because of the price difference, $20 qt. at O'Reilly's or off ebay, I've put about 1,000 miles on mine since doing all the work and the glass filter I have right before the fuel rail has never had the slightest bit of color as in pink or reddish looking fuel in it and I check it every time I drive the car. I'm happy with what I did and I'd never done anything like that before. Get some 5 gallon buckets for the acid/water mixing and go ahead and mix the soda/water for neutralizing the acid once you empty it out. I hung my tank from a tree limb with nylon straps for draining and drying. Drain the acid in another bucket and pour it on any ant beds in your yard, it kills the sh*t out of them. It will take about 2 hours if you take your time. Plan everything out ahead of time and wear rubber gloves and something over your mouth and eyes because of the fumes from the acid. A leaf blower works good in the fill hole for drying. Red Kote has directions you could read online before deciding what you want to use. I took pictures through the fill hole and the sending unit hole with a flashlight in one hole and camera in the other. I over thought it when I did mine, don't make that mistake, it's not hard you just need everything ready before you start. And like Bonzi Lon says the longer you can let it cure the better, mine wasn't needed for a month so it sat with all the holes open for air flow. Read all you can before you do it. Motorcycle people use muratic acid all the time. Thumper Talk has lot's of info.

Try it yourself first. Muratic acid then baking soda works great. $20

Y'all remember the Mako Shark Corvette from '61? Saw one of those at a World of Wheels when I was a youngster in the early '70's. " The concept inspired the 1963 Corvette Sting-Ray", from Wikipedia.

Bare of paint or dull from lack of clear? You could get a cover that's weather proof then drive it to the paint shop.

They're all over e-bay, if I'm reading right or left to right.

That's a great looking car, automatic and all. Neighbors with benefits.

I was noticing how bad those trees look too.

That looks great!

I've got 700 miles on my fresh motor and decided it was going to stay together after all, my first build on L motor. The sun shined down and a 928 with a younger guy with blue sunglasses was looking over at a stop light. After shifting to 3rd he had enough and backed off. Big ole smile on my face and my dog, Jelly, seemed to like it too. Gotta figure out a seat belt for her. Anybody know of something?

I recently did mine so here's some links: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45883.html. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45676.html. It's not as bad as I first thought but you need to get everything together before you start, kinda quick on all the steps. Then make sure and put a Fram G-3 clear plastic fuel filter right out of the tank, search Fram G-3 and you'll find lots of info. You can do it! Blue's tips on the PLOP! are great.

Here's some white smoke inside the vehicle.

It's above the spare tire-well to the right, by the tool bag and jack on my '77. About 6" circle.

In the hatch by your spare tire you'll find an circle shaped cover with 3 screws. Take that off and get a screwdriver and hammer and unlock the tank access. Then remove the fuel gauge sensor and take a LED light and look down into the tank. You'll see rust if there is any.

Nice car, even parked.

I'd bet your car has a permanent BOLO for it. 1 mean arse looking car!

Fine looking carpet. I hope mine looks that good some time soon.

I actually just used Permatex High Heat PTFE Thread Sealer. It says fully cured in 72 hours, so after that I'm baking it my oven set to at least 300 F. Then polishing up like Zedy_Kenobi's. If it leaks again I'll have the fittings brazed in. Also they're will be a fire extinguisher behind the seat from now on. Thanks for the replies. Cliff

Yeah, I'm laughing.

I'm trying to figure out if Teflon tape would melt on my fuel fittings at the fuel rail. I soaked the yellow over night in a jar of fuel and it held up great. Now I'm wondering if it might melt out when the motor gets up to temp. I'm thinking it may be a good thing for it to melt in to the threads? Maybe seal even better. I could put it the oven when I get it all back together and see. Maybe 300 degrees? More or less? I'm using the heat shields and I have the ceramic coated header from MSA. Appreciate any replies. Thanks Cliff Edit: sorry, I forgot the Wikipedia page. It says 621 F.