siteunseen

I got .190s from Schneider a few years ago. You might find something here, google search. https://www.google.com/search?q=.160+lash+pads+240z&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=E76BYemlCeabwbkP1aK-wAU&oq=.160+lash+pads+240z&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIICCEQFhAdEB46AggFOgUIABCABDoFCC4QgAQ6CAgAEIAEELEDOgYIABAWEB46CQgAEBYQHhCLAzoICCEQoAEQiwM6CAghEKsCEIsDOgUIIRCrAjoLCCEQFhAdEB4QiwNQlxlY3pgBYKGrAWgBcAB4AIABvQGIAcIXkgEEMC4xOZgBAKABAbABALgBAg&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp#scso=_K76BYe3rGZiIwbkPop-IGA3:0

Here's some I just did without moving the car or jacking it up. I CAN do mo' better later but these should show the piece I had to leave. It's like a skid plate maybe? for running over small animals or kids . Looking at them they're crap pics with my phone and nosey dog in the way. It's the middle piece with the brace but without it at above 100mph that started flapping and banging like a $20 crack head.

Are you guys mounting the Xenon on top of the OE middle lower piece? I had to keep that so the Xenon didn't vibrate at high speed. It's like a backing reinforcement that you can't see. If I remember right it's adjustable, like tilting the stance up and down. I can get pictures if we're not on the same line of thought. Let me know.

Oh yeah, another free and easy way to check the tank is remove the metal filter up front behind the radiator keep the fuel from draining out when you pull it, use your thumb or something on the bottom and sit it in a clear glass jar. Let it drain and see if the gas inside is all funky looking. Then tap it down on a white rag to see what comes out. "Shade tree mechanicus"

He's sold it, sorry.

I haven't read the whole thread but a trick I learned was to pinch the return line to the tank and see how it runs. I used some needle nosed vise grips with rubber sleeves over the grooves to not cut into the hose. Anyhow, my car ran better. That raises the psi on the fuel rail then to the injectors. Your injectors may need cleaning or the filters are clogged like you say. There's other things that could help. If you haven't already, a clear filter right out of the tank before the high pressure pump will let you see sediment that could be in the tank. Here's a good write up on putting a Fram G3 before the pump. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Good minds think alike! Quick Draw Mc Graw.

On my Nissan D21 pickups I just tape a quarter over the hole.

I bought the Euro specs from futofab for my 240. I like them better too. Refurbished OEs on top, futofab on bottom. The OEs are in storage and the futofabs are on there now in case of getting rear ended while I'm enjoying the car.

Those are on the '78s better designed rail if you ever want to sale it.

This always gave me the creeps too...

Halloween to me...

He is doing top shelf work for sure. I think his work ethic and the forum took him there. I know I've enjoyed his build thread and getting to know him along the way. Keep it up and pass it along.

If I was new to the L series motor I would buy the "Tom monroe's how to rebuild" book. It answers all the questions you've asked that I've read. $20 from Amazon.

Where's the head to that bolt? Very specific bolts go into the water pump, front cover. Be extra careful doing this.

You need to see which hole the spocket is in. #1 new chain, #2 little stretch, #3 last chance on that chain before replacement. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+timing+chain+adjustments+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=XrV9Ya-BG7OEwbkP8teV8Ak&oq=240z+timing+chain+adjustments+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCrAjoFCAAQgAQ6BQguEIAEOgsILhCABBDHARDRAzoLCC4QsQMQxwEQowI6CAguEIAEELEDOggIABCABBCxAzoLCC4QgAQQxwEQrwE6CwgAEIAEELEDEMkDOgUIABCSAzoGCAAQFhAeOgUIIRCgAToFCAAQzQJQ7BhY-NMBYLDgAWgCcAB4AIABigKIAaIhkgEGMC4yNi4xmAEAoAEBsAEA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

Yeah it's looks 180 degrees off to me too.

Button above the front cap clip for #1.

Cam lobes should look like this on tdc

My Dad told me something similar. "Pull the the radiator cap and drive another car under there, call it a day. You'll be better off".

There's a way to set the spindle in the pump I learned in the "Monroe how to" book. You go half a bolt counter clockwise when instslling then it falls dead on when you bolt it up. Let me see if I can find that... Here's a thread that might help then the whole Google search below that. Good luck. It's really easy once you wrap your head around the process. https://www.google.com/search?q=tom+monroe's+how+to+rebuild+a+nissan+oil+pump+alignment+siteunseen+classiczcars.com+&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwif7cPQ_vDzAhVTQkIHHS2EA0QQ2-cCegQIABAB&oq=tom+monroe's+how+to+rebuild+a+nissan+oil+pump+alignment+siteunseen+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChJtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1pbWcQAzoFCCEQqwJKBQg9EgExUM4OWLc3YNhDaABwAHgBgAHnAYgB-guSAQUwLjkuMZgBAKABAcABAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-img&ei=oqB8YZ-UBNOEieoPrYiOoAQ&bih=449&biw=320&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&prmd=svixn

They all have that. I put brass in mine.

Same car with new paint or you're reinventing the rocket?

$10 for breakfast? That should include at least 2 Bloody Mary's. Chocolate Pop Tart and a couple of Bloody Mary's...umm, umm good!

I took the bottom lip thing off before installing the xenon spoiler. Got on the road, ran it up to about 100mph and heard this awful clunking noise. It was the air dam with no support underneath flopping up and down. I put the OE bottom piece back on for support. Worked out great. Now when I go fast my damn wipers start lifting off the windshield. I can live with that though, time to let up before I get a ticket.