siteunseen

I found some info http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45677.html. Sorry I freaked out.

It's the exhaust valve on #3 not intake. It's thickness is .162 on my old calipers, it's hard to tell from the flash.

I bought some new tires and hit the old two lane highways to rack up some miles for the break in. Smiling from ear to ear. Guy in an older 3 series BMW got behind me and heard the sound. We pull into a quick shop and I shut it down talked for a few minutes got back on the road and realized I had a dead skip. Pull over again raised the hood and clackaty clack valve sound. Slowly limped back home to do a hot valve adjustment. Pulled the cover and found a lash pad off #3 intake valve spring. Can I take that rocker arm off and put it back on? The lock nut was tight as I had done a cold adjustment when I put the motor together. Don't understand how it happened but I want to fix it ASAP. Only got 53 miles out of my scenic break in. Also the valve didn't fall as my Dad scared the crap out of me with that, maybe a Chevy does that or something.

On mine that black stuff was old oil, looked like paint, I got some oven cleaner from walmart soaked it then sprayed with high pressure hot water at a car wash. Looked like new inside. I didn't paint inside mine just oil as Blue says.

I'd be proud to have that turd. Looks good!

I bought my Exedy from amazon.com.

Same here, ground it with die grinder. No problems. Your going to love the sound made by that setup.

They made all the difference in the world on my car. 3 of the old ones were cracked out and falling apart. I bought new Standard FJ707 with the long hose and they came with the big O ring as well as the smaller one and the clamp. Got them at rockauto.com for about $165.

Cranked right up! No leaks no drips, good oil pressure and temperature. Beautiful sound too. Hal a lu ya, hal a lu ya, hal a lu ya, ha lay you ahh.

I bought them off ebay from a guy named forrest something or the other. You can get 6 or 4 and they come with heat shrink but what a PITA. My hands suffered less rebuilding the engine than what those 10 connections did to them. Soldering is a lot harder than youtube vids make it look. And the hemostats are for holding the spliffs you'll be needing.

Tools needed: hemostats

All's fair in war and racing. What a pass.

Your mechanic friend's guy got over zealous looking at your avatar. I apologize if that's your wife but she has pretty teeth.

I have a very slight leak, when I blow air into the brake booster bung, around the AFM boot, from the throttle body to AFM, it curls up on the ends from those dang Datsun 2 wire clamps. Since it is before the throttle plate should it affect the manifold vacuum? I could get wide hose clamps and stop it probably but if it doesn't matter what does it matter? It's the connection from AFM to throttle body accordion hose that won't seal. It's been a long morning, sorry.

The engine and transmission. The exhaust is what is giving me such sore arms. And I lied, it's not fun it's satisfying.

Magnaflow and Flowmaster are the same?

I second that book and the nice folks on this forum. I rebuilt a whole motor reading that book and asking opinions on here. I sat that book on the towel rack in front of the toilet so it was always fresh, it's step by step and unlike most books he doesn't ever say "Do the reverse of step # so and so". It's $20 at amazon.com.

That's the old raise the radiator cap and back another car under there and lower the cap. Just kidding! Those new injectors should really help. Put a Fram G3 fuel filter from walmart, $4 bucks, between the tank and the pump and keep all the new goodies nice and clean. Nice work, do it right the first time.

Taking these things apart are a whole lots easier than putting them back together. Still it's fun.

Motor's back where it belongs. Nothing bent or scratched. Didn't even break the plastic hood rod clip on the radiator support. My Dad came over and we where getting it in just fine when my nosy neighbor and his father in law got involved. "What do you need? up or down, front or back, left or right?" Drove me nuts like a pirates wheel. Next time I'm shutting the garage doors. I guess I got lucky and I do have skinny arms but it was no trouble removing the bellhouse bolt that I used as a rear lifting point. All's good in Alabama. I will crank it this weekend. Thanks for everyone's help.

I'm picturing Aunt Bee patching up uniforms for the band concert.

My hesitation is simple. This is the 3rd 280z I've owned and all of them had a serious leak on that particular stud. I'm sure it's a coincidence but I will err on the side of caution this time around. Thank you for the kind words Johnny Haywire. When I bought the car it would pull like a tractor and then fall flat on it's arse. I knew the potential was there and after looking around the www.com and reading everything I could, I started removing the engine. I've found all kinds of small problems that would have gone unnoticed had I continued driving the car. Now I know I have a good strong heart beat I can start putting lipstick on my little blue pig.

I'll try and figure out something else, maybe a sling of some type. I'm kinda nervous picking up the engine with the rear exhaust stud. I don't like the idea of putting all that weight on the head. Thank you for the warning, I would never have considered that.

is a fat lady that sings and can work a hoist.

I've taken some pictures to show what he's talking about. That's the cold start injector hanging down in the mouth of the intake manifold. It'd be more like a garden hose sprayer compared to the 6 injectors which would spray a finer mist like a kitchen sink sprayer. The other picture shows how close it is to the mouth of the throttle body and the tendency to flow with gravity down into the air filter which I think would be dangerous for your son to drive. As hot as it is at Road Atlanta this time of year you should just unplug it and tape the connector up real good. When it gets cold in January it might take a couple more seconds to crank. Ahhh January.