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I'm going to put 2- M10x1.25 Toyota studs in my cylinder head. 1st bolt under thermostat housing and the last bolt before the firewall. Those were wallerd out big enough that I might not have to drill before the thread tap, exageration but they are threadless about 1/4" going in. I don't think Loctite will be enough on the M8x1.25.

I've bought the thick "Williams Washer" for the other 5 studs, the ones that do not attach intake and exhaust together- they were with the bolt kit from MSA, are lock washers not required on the exhaust manifold or header?

Here's a picture of mine. The wires are off though but it is to the right of the drain plug. It's a '77 5spd. My leveler is a Torian. I forgot it came from amazon.com.

Any tips on using that leveler from HF? I'm about to turn that handle myself. What's your ceiling height? Thanks for the pictures.

Captain Obvious are you thinking of upgrading to the early ZX distributor? Advance has the Cardone 31-619 for $133.99. Reatailmenot.com has a coupon code $30 off $100+ so that be around $115 for a rebuilt one. I've found some Zs & ZXs at a local junk yard and may look at there's as I'll have to get that diffrent mount bracket. I'll do mine after I get this motor back in.

L-jetronic system trouble and maintainence article. http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm

Use a sharp putty knife, not too sharp though. 1" would be good I guess.

Ok if I can find one will it be as easy as pulling the pulley and front seal? Will it fit through that hole? It doesn't look as though the lip is turned up more than 1/4". The pulley nose is that big isn't it?

Yea I rolled the front wheel of my engine stand onto 1" of floor tile so hopefully the oil all drained back to the pan and I'll only loose what's in the pump.

When I bought mine the exhaust was leaking at the last bolt, #6 cylinder, when I took the manifolds off I found my EGR was badly cracked and had rotted out the tunnel under the plentum? on the intake. I almost have the motor ready to put back in 6 months later. The more I took off the more I saw that needed to be replaced. It's a slippery slope that I slid down fast. Put up some pictures of the leaks.

Is the Moto Guzzi running right? Sounds like you'll be putting some miles on it.

Look at the tensioner. If it's showing a lot of the plunger shaft you probably need to get in there and replace parts.

Well here again I'm at a quandary. Putting one on now that I've gone this far would be a huge bummer but would give me peace of mind. I don't know what I'll do.

That block has been vatted and the oil passages reamed out with a gun cleaning kit. But boy oh boy was I happy to see that! A Dewalt set on low with torque set in the middle and a rod off a paint mixer that I ground flat. Scared for about 10 seconds then my shoes got an oiling. When I took the picture my drill was running at 1/2 "throttle", wide open on low shot it out of the head. Put the cover on and ran it trigger all the way. Thanks for your help Captain. And thanks Blue for that tip on filling the pump from the filter opening.

I don't think you have to pull the motor. The front cover is all (if that ain't enough).

White ones too! That's like putting a Swifter on your baby's bottom.

Very well could be. Here are the old ones off mine. You could pull the valve cover and see down there I beleive.

Me too! Gigidy.

Maybe this fellow, JT240Z, built my motor before I bought it. The purpose is to "sling" oil to lube the timing chain. The part can be left off and is recommended in high RPM engines to be left off. This is not only done by many engine builders, but is even written in the "How to Hotrod Your Nissan" book as a performance build modification. It explains quite well why to leave it off. It comes down to oil return rate and rotational resistance from the large amounts of oil in the timing chain area. Much of the oil returns back to the oil pan via the front timing chain. The slinger kicks the oil back up and keeps the chain bathed in oil at low engine speeds. The problem is it inhibits some of the oil it slings from returning back to the pan. This excessive oil is just generating resistance to rotation. Kind of the same effect as windage in your crank case. Stock trim... It wont mater either way. Me... I've always left it off and have never had a problem. Street or race.

I think it's Acetone and ATF. That works great.

I don't have one or remember having one. My FSM shows an oil thrower. Could there have not been one or did I lose it and my mind? It's an early '77 with a 2 row pulley. MSA has one for $1.70 for '70 thru '83 but no other parts places have a listing, Courtesy either. Will it really cause the crank seal to leak if I don't use one? 3 woodruff keys, chain sprocket on 1st, worm gear on 2nd and the pulley's on the last one. Everything seems nice and snug sitting on an engine stand. Thanks for any help.

Conjecture and guesses are what put men in space. I've set it at #3 and used red loctite, torqued to 100lbs.

I thought you weren't supposed to use coolant at 1st, just water. Just one of the thousands of suggestions I've read. You know better than most of those suggesting though. Can't wait to see some pictures.

I'm with Grant. $10 for 2 filters to start with.

I put my timing stuff on and was very careful. I turned the crank over and now the crank sprocket dimple is 2 links to the left of my bright link. Is this normal? Kinda' seems like it since the crank sprocket has less teeth than the cam sprocket. Motor turned like rubbing panties together.