siteunseen

I'm gonna try cold. I damn sure don't want to replace the gasket. I can only hear it with the hood open and idiling. My anxiety can't get any worse so I'll live with it if I have to.

I use the Crane PS20 for my ZX E12-80 distributor on my 240. I think it's 1.3??? It did not fit the bracket but a piece of rubber underneath out of sight worked great for a shim. Very happy since 2016 conversion of the newer distributor. Bigger gap for the plugs too.

I've noticed a "tick" on my 280 with a 6 to 1 header. Got my hose stethoscope and found the area is under the flange between #2 & #3. My question, should I try tightening the nuts while the motor is cold or hot? You guys know more about the science of metal microstructure than me so please advise. Thanks for any replies. Cliff

Here's something I would read if I was doing my seats.

Toilet in the cockpit. A little fun wordplay there.

Foot in mouth, figuratively. The knob adjust the nozzle into the needle so I am wrong. SORRY!

Just read Marks comments, sorry if I've confused the conversation but I always think about the needle going up or down into the jet that determines the amount of fuel/air. The jet screws in and doesn't move. The needle is adjusted with the knobs. Right Mark? Should I try getting my foot in my mouth? I'm not sure I can do that move anymore.

It's counter clockwise. You turn them clockwise to raise them, less fuel. Counter clockwise to lower the needle, more fuel. The insructions say turn them clockwise towards the passenger's side until snug then counter clockwise towards the driver's side to 3 full turns for the base setting. If the plugs are white go down to 3.5 turns counter clockwise and so on, do half turns for the fine tuning. Think of laying under the car when turning the knobs. Right would be towards the passenger's side raising the needle which fills up the tube with more needle there by lessening the fuel. Hope that makes sense.

Here's a good read, couldn't find a photo of the actual cam washer it rides on. Yes you can take the valve cover off and see it riding on the lopsided eccentric I think it's called on the nose of the cam.

It's been a long time but I remember people telling me the header would melt the PCV hose coming off the bottom of the intake to the block. I cut my shield to fit my 6 to 1 coated header. Maybe someone could chime in with better knowledge on that?

Crack the drain on bottom of the radiator and run clean water through the top to flush out anything. It'll run hot on 1st start for a minute or two then the temp will start to come down when all the new starts to wear in. Keep the hose running through during that part, as per Tom Monroe's How to book.

Don't forget the spacer between the head and the pump.

I'll get my wooden shoes polished up and come for a visit to see this girl. You know her, right?

You're crusin for a brusin with miss ferg I'd bet. You best take her on one helluva vacation when the Z is done. Hawaii is nice anytime of year, no excuses Bub.

That's the hose people do "cold air intakes"? I've seen that before.

That looks good Ferg! I've had a few cold ones too so we're looking through the same goggles as this guy.

I got .190s from Schneider a few years ago. You might find something here, google search. https://www.google.com/search?q=.160+lash+pads+240z&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=E76BYemlCeabwbkP1aK-wAU&oq=.160+lash+pads+240z&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIICCEQFhAdEB46AggFOgUIABCABDoFCC4QgAQ6CAgAEIAEELEDOgYIABAWEB46CQgAEBYQHhCLAzoICCEQoAEQiwM6CAghEKsCEIsDOgUIIRCrAjoLCCEQFhAdEB4QiwNQlxlY3pgBYKGrAWgBcAB4AIABvQGIAcIXkgEEMC4xOZgBAKABAbABALgBAg&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp#scso=_K76BYe3rGZiIwbkPop-IGA3:0

Here's some I just did without moving the car or jacking it up. I CAN do mo' better later but these should show the piece I had to leave. It's like a skid plate maybe? for running over small animals or kids . Looking at them they're crap pics with my phone and nosey dog in the way. It's the middle piece with the brace but without it at above 100mph that started flapping and banging like a $20 crack head.

Are you guys mounting the Xenon on top of the OE middle lower piece? I had to keep that so the Xenon didn't vibrate at high speed. It's like a backing reinforcement that you can't see. If I remember right it's adjustable, like tilting the stance up and down. I can get pictures if we're not on the same line of thought. Let me know.

Oh yeah, another free and easy way to check the tank is remove the metal filter up front behind the radiator keep the fuel from draining out when you pull it, use your thumb or something on the bottom and sit it in a clear glass jar. Let it drain and see if the gas inside is all funky looking. Then tap it down on a white rag to see what comes out. "Shade tree mechanicus"

He's sold it, sorry.

I haven't read the whole thread but a trick I learned was to pinch the return line to the tank and see how it runs. I used some needle nosed vise grips with rubber sleeves over the grooves to not cut into the hose. Anyhow, my car ran better. That raises the psi on the fuel rail then to the injectors. Your injectors may need cleaning or the filters are clogged like you say. There's other things that could help. If you haven't already, a clear filter right out of the tank before the high pressure pump will let you see sediment that could be in the tank. Here's a good write up on putting a Fram G3 before the pump. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Good minds think alike! Quick Draw Mc Graw.

On my Nissan D21 pickups I just tape a quarter over the hole.

I bought the Euro specs from futofab for my 240. I like them better too. Refurbished OEs on top, futofab on bottom. The OEs are in storage and the futofabs are on there now in case of getting rear ended while I'm enjoying the car.