siteunseen

My apologies for hijacking a post but, Zed Head I finally bought a new laptop! Worlds of difference. Yarb said I was only 10 years behind.

The '78 has one inlet for fuel but up until then they had 2. If you could plug off one side of your old one instead of buying a new FPR????

I tried an adjustable FPR on mine when I went to a solid fuel rail and no EGR, never ran right. I put a '78 stock FPR on mine just like you, right before the return, and it runs fine. It's not as cool looking but it runs good.

Driving around with no hood is "hooning"? I should read deeper into the thread but that's a beautiful picture.

I'm glad I have the garage space for my two without putting my mother out.

Hey Racer X. Good to hear from you. You been laying low but that's cool. You have a lot of weed eating to do.

Not as nice as red head friday but nice. Bring back the bosoms, please!

The fsm says pulling the e-brake up a few times is the adjustment after changing shoes. Mine went from almost straight up to about half way. Kinda like ED as I got older.

I've had good luck with: Valve seal replacement classiczcars.com 6 of 1, half dozen of the other.

Seems like people had to cut the tunnel AND the console on the early 240 5 speed swap-in? Or do the modified shifter. https://www.google.com/search?q=hitting+console+5+speed+swap+classiczcars.com&oq=hitting+console+5+speed+swap+classiczcars.com&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigAdIBCTUxMDIyajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

@Av8ferg you sure can relate to this. 😁

Sounds like it's running out of fuel in the float chambers? Try sticking a little hose down the over flow bung on the lids. The little small red ones off WD-40 work good at pushing down the floats. They should push down and bounce right back up if there's fuel after you run it.

I've been driving mine in daytime only after reading over and over of Mr Irwin's upgrade. I don't use the headlights or wiper blades until my lazy self installs his updates. Hasn't been an issue so far as I only get to drive it on occasion but still those, hopefully still available, are a must on my 240.

I bought mine through Nissan dealership right down the road. Got them next day but Nissan's are smooth now with arrows pointing the flow. 240zrubberparts did have the braided a few years ago. Zcardepot might too. Good luck.

I had to trim some places on my '77 280's six to 1 MSA header but not the oil pan. Mine rubbed the bell housing and I had to cut out the intake manifold's vertical heat shield for the center 2 runners. FWIW

How old is the exhaust? I had an 325is that would pop out the back downshifting. The muffler was bad but I liked it.

I'd spray the heater valve with some type lube, I think I use white lithium something or another. That's the most likely leak in my opinion. Somebody told me to drain my coolant and refill with water to check for leaks, a little easier to dry out if you do have a leak.

I'd be careful pulling the chokes on also. The nozzles haven't been moved up and down in 10 years so maybe loosen the wires and pull them down by hand. Get those loosened up so you won't break the choke lever mount on the console. Also feel the "J" hoses from the nozzles to the the float chambers and make sure they aren't hardened. Good luck waking your baby/beast?

If you cover the valve train with oil, charge a couple of batteries and change the fuel filter you can bypass all the gas tank stuff by taking the pull hose off the fuel pump and put it in a new gas jug with fuel then bungee cord it down in front of the radiator, pull the coil wire off and spin it over. I think I'd take the plugs out for easier rotation to get new fuel and oil throughout the motor then new plugs and it should at least sputter. That's all I had to do to get mine running then I tore it all apart and replaced with new parts from bumper to bumper.

Reminds me of a Rubik's cube, remember what doesn't work then you get it figured out. Pet rock not so much.

If you had a calculator for lash pad size you'd have a helpful program people could use insted of "try different sizes". I can't afford all the different sizes.

I used a straight edge from the end closest to the firewall to the front to make my marks. So I know I'm over thinking this but it makes sense to have the lobes pointing up and even with the center of the cam towers to set my valve clearance. I realize the whole motor tilts so if it is installed upside down the lobes should still be in line with the center of the towers, right? Thanks for your reply

Does this affect valve adjustment in anyone elses opinion? Seems like the base of a lobe would hit full on the valve stem later with the tilt of the motor? I put center lines on top of the cam towers to use as my "straight up" reference point when pointing the lobes up for adjustment. I'm trying to make sense of this so any and all of your opinions would be very much appreciated.

Use "siteunseen classiczcars.com" and it'll crawl my arse.