siteunseen

Maybe PB Blaster, Simple Green and grandpa's toothpaste? 😇

Good to hear! Also good to know professionals use acetone and transmission fluid.

I don't remember doing the key any paticular way just flat side goes up. And my timing chain was so tight I thought the same thing, too tight but that was about 4 years ago and everything is fine. Motor spins up really quick. Plus I put my brand new timing kit on a new rebuild at hole #3 the last one for chain stretch so that made it extra tight. That worried me for about a year but it never broke or caused any problems just advanced the mechanical timing 8 degrees I think? gave it more bottom end but with the 5 speed I put in there it has plenty of top end too. Your tensioner does have that rubber/plastic washer between the plunger and the body right? I think I can see it. From Zed's post above...

FWIW my Alabama '77 did not have the heat shield or converter. It was original before I got a hold of it.

You could ask the machinest how much to take some weight off the OE flywheel. The aluminum ones are expensive so a lot of folks lighten the stock one. Use that assembly lube, mine looked like fake blood but I can't remember the name right off. That really helps the bearings while you rotate the crank putting the pistons in. Sounds like you've covered all your bases and should be a walk in the park. Take your time though, I get excited and go too fast and end up making mistakes. Have fun!

On my 2nd go round with the 240 I used that Loctite that's blue. It's not as strong but from all I read it's great for regular vibrations. The gel stick is the way to go on bolt threads.

Thanks for changing the topic. Maybe you or me might start a new thread on Z secrets that only some can pass on to us. There's a few that I found by reading from my day 1 that are like writing the oil change date on the new filter with a Sharpie. Simple, but took a reminder to see the light.

I don't see any leaking, black soot, so maybe the intake gasket sealed it up good enough. I would measure the protruding section of the header. It may fit inside the exhaust ports? My 2 from MSA were flat as you say. Is there a name anywhere readable like Pacesetter? Those are cheap headers but like I saw there doesn't look like any leaking. Was it noisy? Ticking like a bad exhaust manifold/header seal. More info on any type problem or noise would be helpful to us.

I'm sorry, I lost my bearings reading your post. Post a picture of it and let the other members give you some experiences they may have had.

https://www.google.com/search?q=crankshaft+bearings+classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&prmd=vsin&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjkrM7ItJjyAhUjc98KHaQPCM8Q_AUoA3oECAIQAw&biw=320&bih=449&dpr=2.25#imgrc=xiJYkfGv9-2Z8M

If I remember right that groove is an oiling feature.

That's too funny Wayne! We are very skeptical of the "odd accent" types. They want SOMETHING.

Great pic of the motor's lean to the passenger's side. Adjust the valves after marking the center of the cam towers. Just call me Analee. Giggity!

Thanks @CanTechZ!!! Now I'm gonna have to dig through my storage shed and find my OEs. I have a '72 so I'd like to know.

I get this stuff at Lowes or Tractor supply for less than $40. Spray cabinet for small stuff or a big plastic tub or a tarp on the ground for the big stuff lets me reuse it many times after sifting it through a Walmart sifter. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Black-Bull-80-Grit-Abrasive-Glass-Beads/5001782823

I took it to mean "in agreement with" which is the same as you say but different words. 6 of one 1, half a dozen of the other, eh?

That's what I did. I only removed the hood then I unhooked everything up top, took the exhaust pipe off and the driveshaft then put a rubber cap over the transmission. I think I pulled the alternator and starter too. Don't forget the WD-40 cap over the clip for the hood hold up rod. Here's a good thread from '05. Post #15 shows the rubber plug I'm talking about. You'll read about rolling the car out of your garage to get some stuff off then roll it back in for the removal, good advice.

I didn't use straps but I did read that. here's my setup before install. I used an old valve cover so not to scratch up my nice pretty one. Here's one of my favorite " calm down it'll be fine" pictutres from @Jeff G 78. He really helped me from jumping off the roof. He's like a big 'ol walking talking Valium. He's the one that told me to jack the rear up and I made the decision to let the air out of the front tires as much as I could while still getting the hoist under there. My ceiling is low too but it's exsposed rafters so I lined the hoist up in between the rafters. That bought me another 10 or 12 inches. When it was all over with I'd say I overthought the whole deal, it's easy and I did it all by myself. You got this Ferg.

From what I've learned the 240's stick number starts with an E, 280's with a P. Good thread I found below with the different numbers and possible receiver tube lengths. And I agree on newer cars. They suck for us DIY mechanics. The newest car I've ever owned is my 2000 or 2001 Camry, can't remember what the title says but I list it as a 2000 on my insurance. I did buy a brand new 2009 lawnmower that cost as much as a car.

Sub category. What's the most valuable lesson I've learned for my Z. There's at least 3 different length oil dipsticks for our cars. Make darn sure you have the right one for your motor or you'll overfill it and have a drip after running the car. I did this and had a drip or two off my oil pump until I figured out I had a 2.8 stick in a 2.4 motor. Drained about half a quart and my garage floor is a dry as my dogs food.

Good luck with it! Don't scratch that nice paint job. Those HF levelers are nice but scary when you're working by yourself. They pop and are jerky when using them while loaded down with the motor. That little handle is useless, put a socket on the other end. Grease the bottom rail the roller rides on, makes it a little smoother. I found an old post of mine showing what I did. Might help you too. Here's some reading for ya. Below the videos it's stuff from classiczcars.com. https://www.google.com/search?q=engine+leveler+classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=_6wJYZWmJtScwbkPxba40AY&oq=engine+leveler+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBQgAEM0COgQIHhAKUJuaAVjkrAFgxrkBaABwAHgAgAHIAYgB5g2SAQYwLjExLjGYAQCgAQHAAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp Skateboarding comment. I always put my right foot down on the toe box of my tennis shoes and used that as a brake. Pissed my Mom off but what didn't eh? I had to google "eh" to figure out what @Racer X meant.

Wanted me to build her a happy home Now she's livin' all alone...

HaHa! It steers like a hot knife through butter. Very precise and quick but I feel every everything which is good and bad. I replaced everything on my 240 then bought new Rewinds and performance Hankooks. "The devils is in the details" is very true on the steering.

I need to 'splain my reply I think. Maybe the longer bolt got ran down and spun out. A shorter one may hold to the torque spec.

Or maybe a shorter one? Can't remember the torque spec but it can't be much. The 280s don't have a problem with the line up pin but the 240s do. They went to a universal fit off the 280 dimensions but they won't sit in the 240 holes. I had to file my 240 pins down to get them in. On my 280 they fit.