siteunseen

I want download anything to my phone.

My d21 pickup did that too. It was the vacuum hoses that hook up right beside each other, 4 side by side if I remember right.

I would put a cheap fuel pressure gauge right out of the fuel filter before it enters the metal hardline. You may have too much fuel pressure? I think 3psi is about the max. Lowes has cheap gauges in the swimming pool supply section, fyi. Good luck. You want that fixed asap. While you're at Lowe's get a fire extinguisher. They have a metal rechargeable that fits perfect in the tool bends behind the seats.

When I cleaned mine I used Murphy's oil soap to clean them then I used some left over leather cleaner from a BMW I had. The leather cleaner made the interior smell good so I still use that. My Camry has leather too. Bought all that at Walmart.

I'm a dummy too! duh... Looks like transmission and bearing tools on my phone blow up?

I have an E88 with "Birmingham Cylinder Head" on those. Seems like there's one on each end? From what I've been told it's the glue? that holds them on that gets too hot and releases the button/disc. That voids their warranty if one is missing.

I googled that heat button on the head, "Pioneer cylinder head" and it came up as a parts supplier I'd never heard of for Nissan parts. Learned something new today. That's always good! https://pioneerautoinc.com/engine/internal-parts

Finally found the page I was looking for and I am WRONG. That '79 was a 2+2 with the F-54/ P-79. I don't know if that matters or if someone had swapped out the motor? Anyway here's the write up on all the different blocks and head combos. Great read but hard to find nowadays, they changed something and my old bookmarks do not work anymore. https://datsunzgarage.us/engine/ L24 (1970 240Z)2.4 liter# E31 (flattop pistons)E31 L24 ('71-73 240Z)2.4 liter# P30 (flattop pistons)E88 L26 ('74 260Z)2.6 liter# P30 (flattop pistons)E88 L28 ('75-80 280Z/ZX)2.8 liter# N42 (dished pistons)N42, N47 L28 ('81-83 280ZX)2.8 liter# F54 (flattop/dished pistons, siamesed cylinders)P79, P90, P90a

What the hell is that? A fuel filter. You're going to need a lot of help and you'll get it here. Walk lightly my friend. It took me a year at least before these wunderful guys accepted me into their fold.

I've got a couple of sledge hammers and maybe 6 wedges. Please get them from me. I'll leave them in the front yard propped up by the mailbox.

You can get one of these rubber caps for couple of dollars. Keeps the fluid in the tranny without driveshaft.

Looks right to me. The bushing goes on the very end, slick part. The splined part is bigger. I think that's what is throwing you off. Try it on the tool in your clutch kit.

I think it's from Deliverance... "You sure are a pretty sum bitch"

I check mine at oil changes. I only do the valves about once a year, maybe longer as I don't drive it much. Thanks zkars. I will now go check mine. 💣 Another reason it's a garage Queen.

They'll have an exta foot. Oh wait, I have a third foot. And Happy Father's Day to everyone, the four footed children too. Mine...

https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/carboncan/index.html Happy Father's Day @240260280 "Fart"

Maybe use a friend of your friends? They make $15 an hour around here so a Benjamin goes a long way.

Just guessing. I'm bored, maybe you can only go 4.5 down is the linkage is stopping it. In this photo where the scribe is in the hole one the nozzle and through the hole on the connecting flat bar. If you take that screw out it'll go down 10 with ease. If the screws in you'll have resistance from the linkage springs and what not. And that plate I think Mark is talking about has a screw in it to keep it in place. The reason for this screw from all I've read is to turn the knob all the way up untill snug then use that screw to adjust dead center up. Edit. It has something to do with the makers on the knob. I used a Sharpie on mine.

Has anybody recommended letting a police officer check the vin #? I've done it before buying a car and they got all the info I wanted. Maybe he doesn't have the vin? Haven't read the thread. Okay, skimmed through and found no vin. Good luck with your search.

I keep my carb hose connected and plug the other end that connects to the vacuum advance with a golf tee. I have no idea what that does or doesn't do but it's what I've always done. When I do the 3,000 rpm full advance feature on my light I hook it back up. No golf tee. 240 and 280 are the same at 17 and 34. My cars really like advance. I may be destroying them today but I'll let the next owner deal with that. I'm having fun today...

Yeah I forgot to ask is a JY distributor or a new remanufactured one. I bought a '79 which seems to be the most desirable one from amazon plus the matching coil a Crane Fireball PS20 I think. Works great. The problem with the junkyard dizzys are the vacuum advance ball bearing cages are plastic and break apart 40 years later disabling the feature and getting steel balls stuck to the stator. My '77 is suffering that now. And I'm here to tell you it doesn't run as good without that advace. I'm gonna put a new one on asap but that is asaIfli, as soon as I feel like it. Priorities...

I chucked one right after a rebuild. I was breaking the motor in and heard a god awful tick from the valve train. Jeff told me the easy way to fix it and I've not had an issue since. @Jeff G 78 got instant hero status and respect from this guy. If you're ever in Alabama dinner and drinks are on me.

Max it out on the timing plate under the distributor. My car has the most advance I can get. Cam spocket on #3 from the git go and full advance on the timing plate. Runs great!

I miss Walter Moore! He had a great 240 and got hit, totaled it. Now he's gone from here since the wreck. Maybe he still checks on us? @Walter Moore

Was it the free beer, doughnuts or not wanting to get it again? Regardless, glad to hear. We may shake hands someday at a ZCON meet.