siteunseen

A couple of suggestions you may already know but they helped me over the years. Our motors are not straight up in the engine bay, slight tilt to the passenger's side. If you mark the center of the cam towers and use that as your up reference it'll be more precise. Also you can get two to come up at a time so that helps speed things up when you do them hot. They're spread out though so I started making a mark off list on a piece of a case box for something like beer. Anyhow write it out and place it under the passenger's wiper blade and X them off as you do them. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Cold setting on top and the hot is the bottom one. It may help since you say the clicking is better after your second adjustment. Good luck with it, that ticking sound drive's me nuts.

I think you should make it clear to the carpet supplier you have the early 1977 with the sloped up rear deck. After some time I am not positive all 1977s have that. Send an email or a phone call to be sure. Sorry for any confusion.

Yes, you have a '77 and that rear hatch carpet piece would be different versus a 1976 rear carpet. The '76 would be too short for the slope up.

I have a 9/76 build date and it's considered a 1977. Has the sloped up rear deck with a space saver spare tire, collapsed with the a can of air. N47 cylinder head stamp on top of an N42 block. VIN# 355,834

I can't wait on erectile dysfunction, where it's always 5 oclock.

https://www.google.com/search?q=350z+seats+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=VJOuYLa8AonM_AbGmq5Y&oq=350z+seats+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABMgUIIRCrAjIFCCEQqwI6AggpOgUIKRCrAjoECCkQCjoFCCkQoAE6BQgpEJMCOggIABDqAhCPAToCCAA6BQgAELEDOgUILhCxAzoICAAQsQMQgwE6CAguEMcBEK8BOggIABCxAxDJAzoFCAAQkgM6BQgAEMkDOgYIABAWEB46BwghEAoQoAFQghJYlGpgtXNoAXAAeACAAbIBiAHUEZIBBDMuMTWYAQCgAQGwAR4&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

No color code sticker on the radiator support or a door jamb ID plate the only way I know of is to search the vin registry for a number close to yours. Thanks to @Carl Beck http://www.zhome.com/

Looking at the evap tank picture I'd say #919. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

I have the 6to1 headers and had to trim the heat shield around one of the primary tubes on my 280. I also had to grind a little off the bell housing where the collector barely rubbed on it. The 240 did not need any of that. You can use jack stands to hold up the 2.5 tube while you bolt it together. The S pipe right before the muffler is the hardest part to get tucked up the right way. Was for me. Good luck and check MSA for the correct orientation of the muffler. It's a hyper link in the description of the 2.5 exhaust.

Here's 2 for $67.45 each. https://www.ebay.com/itm/353191421255?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

Well it was almost 7 years ago so sorry about that, time flies for me now, but my Nissan dealer down the street. $42 I bought all the parts but waited a few years to do the work.

Yeah it's fun after you realize what's not on their screen. I used to get funked up and call local parts stores and asked about a water pump for a '82 911. Keep them on the phone forever.

Better number 27116-e4400

Anything past '95? they don't know. I'm buying parts for a 240sx as long as they know. You have to just tell them the part number or they argue with you, mine do at least. It may be '93 when they changed over? I can't remember. Another thing just by looking at your original hoses is the heater valve. They go bad all the time and dump coolant on the passenger's floorboard. It's another pain in the butt to change out but sooner or later you'll have a problem. I did the whole thing a year or so ago. The valve is about $40 and you'll need another short hose with it. Sorry I don't have that part number handy but here's the valve.

Part numbers...

To be honest, it is a pain but I would do both hoses and the rubber gromments on the fire wall Start loosening at the bottom and let it drain. I don't think the contents of the radiator will come out but aftet seeing your photo you need to change the fluid. Shouldn't be rusty looking.

That elbow wouldn't budge for me but that's not saying much as I'm a weakling. You don't want to deadhead the rear of the cylinder head by plugging that elbow. I did and after much scorning and reading learned not to. Here's some reading for you. https://www.google.com/search?q=bypassing+heater+core+classiczcars.com&source=lmns&bih=545&biw=320&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&prmd=vsin&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjc-Y60muPwAhVD0FMKHVtyDcUQ_AUoAHoECAAQAg#scso=_OROsYLK_FIOFwbkPhIK0YA24:0

Appears to be that heater hose to me. You could bypass the heater core using one hose connecting the cylinder head nipple back to the lower radiator hose. You can buy those hoses new from Nissan still, not braided but new. Orrrr cut off an inch or so and see what it does?

And another.

I bought a '76 that wouldn't go beyond idle. Spider web on the afm vane had it stuck. One of my all time lucky breaks. Probably none since then and that was '86, '87.

I think the covid dead cat bounce is on the ground for the last bounce. Guys aren't watching BAT like they were and the game is kind of over now. Time to tighten up those belts finally. Mine been tight so long I have a bruise around my waist.

Nipple, nipple nipple nipple nipple.

Another shade tree trick is to clamp the return fuel line to increase fuel pressure and see if your problem improves. Best of luck and we'd like to see some pics of this car. Sounds like a super nice '75.

I think the throttle switch comes off idle contact about 2500? It may need adjusting or cleaning of the contacts. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html