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Yep, I forgot to say hello and welcome to a very helpful group of guys that bought these car brand new. They know them inside and out, up and down. Working on cars was the last thing on my mind at 18 so we're glad you are here, proves most of our theories wrong. The young and the restless do know how to drive a stick shift.

Is this real? Song sounds good but I think the vocals maybe added?

Once the motor gets back to room temperature that's it until you crank it again. Just oil it up real good and keep it oiled. That new cam and the valve train needs to be covered with oil always while it sits. You could turn it over by hand occasionally too to prevent any sort of spots, like rolling a car to keep from getting flat spots on the tires.

Zed Head has a good idea as usual. Run the idle up while you're tinkering with getting it running. That's always been a hard buger to figure out, the idle adjustment. This thread shows what you need to be turning. Good luck and as said above keep us posted. Pictures are very helful also. I'd like to see the fusible links on the passenger's side, about a foot forward of the battery. Those are super important to your car. Here's that idle adjustment thread.

I've got the thought processes of an 18 year old so maybe I can help. Fuel, fire and air are the main 3 things needed to run a combustion engine. You need to get them all working but can do so one at time. Get a good battery, unhook the small solenoid wire on the starter. That should let the fuel pump run without cranking the car. Pull the hose off the top of the filter on the passenger's side up front in the engine bay. Put it in an empty gas can and see if you have a good flow of fuel. Pull a spark plug and turn the motor over to look and see if you have a good spark. Take the air filter out for testing. Clean any debris out of the air box. Not necessarily in that order but you'll have to do those basic things no matter what. I would put a new filter on and some new 10w30 oil. Get the cheap stuff at walmart if the car hasn't run in awhile. Clean the spark plugs before buying new ones. Clean all the grounds on the engine as described here... https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html Read this on vacuum leaks... https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/airleaks/index.html Let us know what you find out. I wouldn't fall into the trap I did buying up a bunch of parts you don't need.

The floats should look like this, I say a sped bump. I think that's called a metaphor? Same height on the ends but with a hump in the middle. Most of the time people's look like a ramp instead. That won't let the valves work right and they shut off too soon, no fuel. This is bad... You want them lower and level except the bump in the middle. Bend them down like this...

Has it ever run with those carbs, fuel tank and fuel pump? You can bypass the tank with a small gas can up front. Pull the suction hose off the fuel filter and put it in the jug. These cars are bad to get crudded up fuel tanks, mine was horrible when I first bought it. Wouldn't run for more than a few minutes so I used the jug trick and it ran fine. That's a whole other story... The main problem that I've seen is the floats are out of adjustment and don't allow enough fuel into the bowls, starving them of gas. When you pull the choke on it drops the nozzle letting in more fuel so your's are running or idling as you said above. Here's a very simple explanation @Jughead posted as few days ago to get the floats set at 9/16" down from the bowl's lid. I just reset the floats. Here's the procedure I used (which I got from Steve @ Z-Therapy): 1) Removed float chamber top and held with float on bottom. 2) Blew into fuel banjo fitting while slowly lifting float and holding 9/16" spacer between top of float and bottom of float chamber cover. 3) Adjusted (bent) the float adjustment tab so that airflow thru the banjo just stops at 9/16", and air flows with any downward movement of the float. After doing this, I checked the levels with Float Syncs. The levels are exactly the same in both carburetors: ~ 1/2" above the top of the metal bases of the Float Synchs. The base setting for 3 screw SUs is to have the adjustment nut on the bottom 2.5 turns down/out/counterclockwise what ever but anyway tighten them by turning them towards the passenger's fender, which is clockwise looking from the bottom up. Just snug them up not super tight. Then turn them backwards towards the driver's side, counterclockwise looking up from the bottom, 2 complete turns then a half way around turn. That's the ballpark and they should run like that. The nut I'm talking about is #19 in this diagram. When you loosen it the needles drop down and lets more fuel pass through the nozzles. Here's what I learned by and after doing it a few times it gets easy, you'll figure out what each step does and it'll all make sense. Thank You Mr @240260280

Just remembered a quicker cheaper way to get an idea of how much or little fuel you have. Get one of those little red straws off a can of Wd-40 and stick it down the vent bung. It should be "bouncy". You're pushing the floats down into the fuel. If you have plenty it should raise the straw right back up after you push it down. If it stays down there's not enough.

It seems like the float chambers are running out fuel really fast. With the ckokes on the nozzles are dropped lower adding more fuel. I would get section of clear hose and check the levels. That's the easiest way to get an idea of where you're at. Should be even with the mark at the yellow arrow. You get that hose at Lowe's or Home Depo. I think it's 1/4". Just one 2 foot piece is all you need. Cheap and easy.

We're having an unusually early spring down here. Groundhogs be damned. I have a box of the baby blue mask from work and holy cow at the very obvious crud I'm getting with these cheap things while doing yard work. It's amazing to see. They will be absolutely necessary until the day I kick the bucket, full of papers proclaiming things I want to accomplish before said time of the bucket to be kicked.

Just to add to your research here's some good pics thanks to @240260280 https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm '77 efi though. Not sure what you have but maybe useful in some way?

Here's a very good read about everything. It has details on the diff and transmission too. https://datsunzgarage.us/engine/

Did they get the money from your check? Reads bad press to me. Hopefully they'll get it straight.

Hello, also looking forward to you being part of our group. Love the color.

Post up some more photos please. Great looking car. Stimulus checks on the way and already itching.

@Ed Brock

I had a few EFI cars over the years then bought a 240. Then another one. Sold the least desirable one to free up some garage space. I love the carbed cars. They really scream.

Tends to cause trouble when she's bored? If she's 18 send her to me PLEASE!

That's a regal blue in my opinion. Very nice color too.

There's no such thing.

Purple Z. My Smurf block?

If you don't watch out it'll stick to you.

That looks fantastic. I'm jealous Ferg. Makes me want to go back to college.

I spy a Viper.

I put a N47 head on my 2.4 block. Chucked up the valves and spun scratches in the smaller bore block. Notched them then used clothes line wooden pins to hold the larger valves in place on the N47. Put it back on then unclipped the pins letting the valves drop without any contact. Worked good and gave me some quality drinking time in the coldest of winter. Provided but not required. Like I need an excuse to drink!