siteunseen

They'll have to pry this new one from my cold, callous coverd dead hands.

Used my 240 as a backdrop for a new toy I bought. A real brand new 2 cycle Stihl weedeater. No valves! Weighs half as much and revs to the sky. Very happy with new old technology.

My '77 has those door guards and dealer chrome mud flaps. Hate them! Looks like a clown car at the Christmas parade.

Most folks just leave the valve cover gasket dry without any type sealant for the off and on you'll be pulling it, until you get it right then just once a year or so to check valve lash. I run those cover bolts down with an electric drill set to the lowest possible strength setting, that's always tight enough for mine. No leaks. Have you read about using ant-seize thread lube on everthing? It helps.

I dropped and refurbished my 1st tank on the '77 I still have. Honestly it was a waste of time and a little money, the car didn't run any better. At the end of the very "long day" it was the coolant temp sensor resistance to the ECU. It could be your fuel pump? Now the '72 240Z I bought was a whole different story. That tank was like a porta-john's tank minus the big breath mints. This isn't rust, wouldn't stick to a magnet, just old fuel and sediment. The car sat for years with fuel in the tank, eventually turning to pretty much dirt.

Good read here. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

I would have bought 2 gallons of new fuel. Drain the tank fuel into a clear plastic tub and see how it looks. Mine looked like Sunkist when the tank was fuel of crud.

Could be an air leak, those cause high idle from my experience. The throttle blade could be dirty, sticking open just a little. Check for cracks in the rubber accordion hose that connects the AFM to the throttle body. A lot of possibilities, AAR could be stuck open too.

I'm not 100% on this but next time your tank is full and it starts acting up, pull over and remove the gas cap. If I remember right it shouldn't have a "whooshing" sound as it trying to pull in air. Your gas cap could be bad, the top vent line could be stopped up? I have blown into my filler neck, cap removed, and could hear the gas gurgling around. That was my way of testing the hoses after a tank and hose refresh on my '72. @Mark Maras might have an idea to add. Good luck, it could be a lot worse of a problem.

@HusseinHolland What you've done is amazing. You should design the layout for the next Space Station. Just looking at your shop is like a museum, awe inspiring the way you make use of every available inch of space. Cliff

I completely understand. Main point is/was you need a good fire extinguisher. There's a lot of combustibles in a small space, looking at your pictures.

Fill it with Lume, kill the fire and no stinky smell.

(LOL)

That's the entrance to the meth lab. Boy oh boy there's a lot to take in on that pic.

I would be calling them "auto-body shapers" or artist of their trade. Wifebeaters is a little harsh and cars are our wives right? We wish. Congratulations on the progress.

@Bonzi Lon your's back from Saudi Arabia? Forgot to add that looks like a fine car and a good deal for the buyer. There's a guy not far from me with a white with blue interior 240. I've tried to PM him as I heard he was having some health issues but haven't gotten a reply. Maybe I'll ride out there one day soon and see if he got it put back together...

We're talking about it, so the doofus dinosaur is working.

Ferg you're one a few I know that can't use my best excuse for my life choices, "I'm not flying an airplane". I'm glad you're on a new path, life is long and we need your help. The library is huge.

If you have the Fram G3 between the tank and the fuel pump it should catch the gas tank trash before it gets up to the metal one in the engine bay so you are probably okay on the filter. That's just a knee jerk response from me. As Zed Head says, "carry on".

Do you have a fairly new fuel filter? The sediment falls down when they sit so it'll crank and idle for a minute then the crud stops them up.

When I was trying to figure out my lean running '77 I ran a fuel hose off a T to my driver's wiper blade, put the gauge on and zip-tied it to the window wiper and went for a drive. Mine was losing pressure while driving I discovered (couldn't see the engine mounted gauge while driving) so I ask an '80's Nissan Certified mechanic about it. He clamped off the return line which increased the fuel pressure on the rail and it ran much better. Told me to, basically, throw new parts in. Well after a lot of reading on this lovely forum I did the CTS tweak with a potentiometer from Radio Shack, $5 volume knob. Runs great when I drive it. This rainy day long read was my "ah ha!' moment. This was the fix. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

When I first bought my '72 it was a mangled mess from Ford mechanics trying to get it running. You know, "a straight 6 is a straight 6" It had the OE dizzy that had a small black wire going to it that was loose. I beat my brains out figuring that out but finally it ran. I went to the ZX electronic distributor and matching coil. No problems since the change over. Just from my FYI file...

My float chamber lids had loosened over time and caused me some problems. Make sure those screws are snug and the gaskets are complete, no wrinkles. My filter was low of fuel but after I got the float levels right it stays pretty full at idle. I have '72 carbs though, they're a little different than your's and @Mark Maras My favorite pic I "borrow" from @zKars (I think) shows it done on the car.

Go to a dealership and act like you want to buy a car. That's where I get all my pens.