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Here's a good read on installation for a '72. Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Electri...Electric Fuel Pump InstallationIn an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using...

I had knee surgery and am starting to fool around with my Zs. The carbed 240 was a little more trouble to start. I think the bowls had evaporated all the fuel out. For some reason I decided to hit my precious carburetors with a small tack hammer. The lord only knows how many have dents from being hit, trying to knock the floats loose. Well I saw the most obvious thing ever before I started whalopping the sides of my float bowls. Is there a chance in hell Skinner Union or Hitachi put this boss there for any other reason? I tapped them both a couple of times without leaving any marks and that little baby roared to life after getting a flow of fuel. Could Skinner Union/Hitachi have some foward thinking or did they just put a big chunk of aluminum to show the fuel level?

Maybe he did what I did. Covered it from the inside? I used a piece of Gorilla tape from the inside instead of a chair leg cap on the outside. I was in a hurry, probably need to check that soon? 🤫

Missed 2 car shows yesterday because of rain but made up for it today as did others. A lot of classics out around here on a beautiful day. Car ran great! Here's to the rest of the day fellows, it's drinking time, all driving is over. 🍻

I would think you should at least "kill" the rust. I used SEM Rust Mort on a 240 I bought then sold. It has some type acid in it and turns the rust a black, dark grey color. It keeps the rust from getting any worse is what I found from a lot of reading around the www.com.

I can remember reading about a head gasket that covers one of the oil holes but that's about all I remember. I wish you the best of luck how ever it turns out.

What about pulling the valve cover and see if any oil is making it's way up to the cam? If you try this don't put your drill on HIGH when spinning the distributor/oil shaft. I learned that the hard way.

Opinions please! @zKars @grannyknot @Diseazd @madkaw @Mark Maras and all you other CZC's readers. I was thinking around $200 for the bare head? I found a P90 that pushed this E31 to the kid's table.

You may as well do the brakes too, you know, while you're mechanic is out of town. Rotors/drums resurfaced/replaced and new pads/shoes.

I think it's 4.225? thick?

Any input on a price, bare head, would be graciously appreciated. 😁

I would stay focused on the hot idle in traffic you have been talking about. If you haven't noticed the rough ride from worn suspension I wouldn't be concerned what the quick oil guys say. You'll see that in the wear of your tires. Google "240z struts". They aren't shocks.

I fell off the spring cleaning bandwagon pretty quick but I will get some pictures today and post them. Maybe, with some help from the forum I can come up with a price. It's not OE anymore, bigger valve seats and an attempt at some minor porting. Came with a 240 I bought years ago as part of a hopped up 2.8 engine build.

I have a early 1977 with the sloped rear deck. Mine was dated 9/76 and has some odd parts changes from that period on US spec cars. I'll share what I can and have many pics too. I learned a lot with this car.

Here's what I did on my hatch emblem. Thanks @Hardway

https://www.facebook.com/share/1BaR4fHeds/ https://www.facebook.com/share/1BaR4fHeds/

I bought mine from this guy... 1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) for...1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) for sale1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) license plate for sale at the Tag Dr. black is dull

For our Canadian friends... We appreciate it! Yes! Y'all brought back my favorite thread.

Hooking up a vacuum gauge is somthing else that helps find problem. You can get them at chain stores with loaner programs for free.

The Good 'ol Boy way as was told to me by Fastwoman. Cost maybe $10? Don't drive around busy streets while watching the gauge, find a nice backroad and there won't be any issues.

@inline6 now's your time to shine some of that knowledge on this fellow restorer. 🤓

My Dad always preached to not put old parts you can afford to replace back on the car. Lots of exceptions to that statement but you all know what I'm saying.

I told my #1 helper and the look on his face was pure disbelief. "WHAT?"

If the mechanical timing sprocket is on hole #3 it won't rev up very good at the top. I set mine on #3 after I rebuilt the motor with new parts. That advances the the explosion somewhat. I run full advance with the ZX distributor on my '72 240. I think it's 17 at idle and 34 degrees at 3,000 rpms. But it won't go much over 6,200 rpms on the street. Why are you reving it to max sitting still? That's completely nuts. No wonder you are constantly complaining. NO OFFENSE INTENDED It's your car, do what you want.