siteunseen

The best one I remember was @Captain Obvious's but his photos went away because "Photo Bucket sucks", as per Captain Obvious. Here's quite a few, his is in there too. I rebuilt mine without any problems. Bought the accordion boots with those stainless straps from a motorcycle parts department. They were for some kind of 4-wheeler, sorry I don't remember. I bought Moog tie rods with the grease zerk from rockauto.com. The driver's side is left hand threads FYI. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=KZYqYLycD83G5gKF3ZjgDQ&q=steering+rack+restore+classiczcars.com&oq=steering+rack+restore+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAM6BAghEAo6BQghEKsCUPgjWOJEYJdUaANwAHgAgAG9AogB5A6SAQgxNC40LjAuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXrAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwj81JuOnezuAhVNo1kKHYUuBtwQ4dUDCA0&uact=5 Here his is. He says later on in the thread the important photos are there.

42F here. And that's cold to these old bones. What's in Austin will be here tomorrow, damn it. Brown liquor helps me get through these 2 cold months.

Try leaving the cap off and pumping the pedal while running. It kinda sounds like you may need a new slave cylinder. No big deal changing those out. Good luck with your issue, easy fix hopefully.

We've posted together on this before. Texas heat, Alabama heat. I cheated and put a 280Z radiator on my '72 with a full ZX shroud. I have the OE stuff but for driving around here it runs nice and cool.

That zcardepot is a Pacesetter, same as ebay. 10 years ago the thickness was short, not good. Maybe better now? I would wait out msa or go with msds. Msa has theirs built then sent to a coating place nearby called Embee. They could have a batch at Embee almost ready?

Or maybe I pried it off with piece off wood between the front cover and the pulley. I can't remember but that sounds more doable now that I think about it.

If I remember right I took a small screwdriver and tapped that key keeper loose and mine came off fairly easy. Don't hit the pulley with a steel hammer from behind. You could use rubber but be gentle. Those things break on the thinner sides where the belt rides. Good luck.

Post a picture of your pulley and what you're dealing with. You may have some classic PO work around.

Yes, 27mm fits the crank snout bolt on my 2 Zs. 1972 and a 1977.

Yeah they're satin black. Learned that the hard way. Blue block and motor mounts. Maybe a few other things too, ftont pulley and I fade out...

I've driven the autos back then and they suck. I honestly don't remember a good downshift/passing gear. They just puttered along. 3 speed IIRC? But that's 55mph speed limit.

Okay I walked down there. Mr Arnett and Az-240Z are both righter than me! My '72 has the smaller pins Mr Arnett said but no hex head bolts, 2 more small rivets. I apologize for any confusion I may have caused. Top small rivets on the grey lip... Two behind the tag where they join together... I forgot to count but I'd say 8 total.

I'll take some pics eventually when i get off my lazy butt. Thank you guys for another change over in the early ones vs the later.

I was just looking at that. It seems the early 240s may have used small bolts but my '72 has two smaller plastic rivets behind the tag and the normal sized ones on the hatch lip up top, not sure how many without walking downstairs and taking the cover off. This is @CanTechZ early car. you can see the threads I think. These are the rivets i bought for my '72.

There's 2 small ones behind the tag too. Found the thread I was thinking about. I posted the Nissan #s in post #3. On the bottom there are clips the panel slides into.

That's it but you could get one way cheaper that's not all shiny. Give this thread a day or so and someone will probably offer one up. Read texasz's post on California datsun.

I'd try like hell to use a heli-coil in that buggered up hole and call it a day but if not it's not that big of a deal especially with the motor out. The two bolts are right at the front of the head looking down. Top of this picture.

Timing kit, oil pump and valve seals plus the basics. Water pump, alternator, starter, fuel pump. Depends on what you've done lately. Good luck with it, the blue paint looks good.

There's alternative headers too. The msds has good rating from @conedodger. You could check Summit too. Headman are mentioned. I like msa because they have the flange thickness dead on. The others may as well. I'd spend some time googling and researching. It's all out there.

Does msa have the 3to2 header? If I remember right thats the same as zstory's? I know a lot of people choose, prefer that design over the 6to1.

I thought Southern was hard to write out but damn, you got me.

I admit I haven't kept up with this thread, I read from the newest up. I've had great results with this stuff on aluminum and some steel too.

I played this and many others on an old Jam box. Usually while riding skateboards or running Cox cars. I'm old...

Shipping might be costly from North Alabama but here's the whole car for $4,000. I know the turbo's use a specific ECU so make sure you get that when you do find one. Good luck. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/997590577430996/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined

So a gender bender is more physical now than mental.