siteunseen

You need 2 of the11220s cantech shows above but only one tunnel mount 11320. You have 2 for quantity, am I missing something?

Reminds me of the episode where Gomer moved in with Andy and all night people would stop and rev their motors up and Gomer would tell his diagnosis. Very funny.

I would call a local dealership and let them run that p/n and their price. You could get it the next day most likely, no shipping but you have pay sales tax. Do you know about Courteseynissan.com? They are known for keeping older Zs on the road.

Just like the rest of us, cars are like girls. We remember the ones that were best. Rough and ratty but were there day in and day out.

The aftetmarkets I bought would not work without modifying. Anything that list '70-'83 almost certainly will need to be ground down, modified in my experience. You can't go wrong with Nissan parts. You get what you pay for so you get a lot with OEM parts, they're high like a giraffes arse.

That's also a Mitsubishi Starion.

I've measured tires tread with a penny but not a trunk with a dollar. I have seen strippers with large trunks covered inside and out with paper momey, not dollars though. I guess a dollar is similar to a hand when measuring horses?

That's what the potentiometer does, trick the ecu to richen or lean the fuel/air mixture. The 3rd hole advances the the cam timing. It's just some drinking thinking I've pickled around with, you know stirring the pot a little more. I get bored...

What do think about a potentiometer to add more fuel for a cam? I asked about this earlier but can't remember who or what the answers were. I have a pot knob on my'77 and can flood it out with fuel or starve it. I think it's a 7,500ohm volume knob from radio shack? I do know Schneider ask if it's efi or carbs when ordering so I know it's an issue. That maybe another advantage of hole #3 on the cam spocket from the beginning. Racer Brown's L motor chapter 13, FYI.

Hopefully those will work but for me the research i did showed that anything that was not specific to 240Zs were considered universal fit. Those do not work without some grinding, modifying of the pins. The ones you show are for 1970 to 1983.

Use it or lose it I've always been told.

You have the fever! I got it a few years ago and wound up with 3 Z cars and a storage building full of parts. Money in the bank! You can't go wrong unless you get duped by some scum bag.

Seriously though. I just thought of a headache he may run into. The 240 engine bay motor mounts are a little different than the 280's. The locating pin is diffetent. Check yours if you've bought them already, if not read around and get the good ones. I'll try and find that discussion. @EuroDat has the Nissan p/n on his reply, post #21. Whoa! $107 each. That pallet of money just got smaller.

I use Valvoline Maxlife 10w/30. Started out with VR1 but that's hard to get around here and rather expensive compared to Maxlife.

Wait until you ask about cams or the best oil. We have a lot of back and fourths, opinions I guess, but it's all fun.

I think I touched my brain with a crayon through my nose on a double dare. It was a sienna crayon too.

Be part of the solution. You could be that "somebody", I imagine Mr Beck is worn out after all he's done. I'd be glad to help but he probably needs someone like you to tow the line. I'd probably drop it in the water.

Get a neck brace.

I'd never installed a header before so I asked a couple of people that had and they said they had to be some type of self locking nuts with bigger bottoms to spread out the pressure. Not to use lock washers and flat washers. I used their past experience with good results, that's all I'm saying. I/we had many back and forths on this in 2011. If you go to zcardepot.com you can see what he says. Likewise if you go to msa's site you can read what they say. My local Nissan parts guy agreed with my Dad and my German car mechanic's advice. Use some type of locknuts.

This speaks a little on that special car, SAP.

I'd rather have ZZAPP.

Their gasket is like a compacted bunch of paper towels. They fold over when held outward. If you sprayed them with copper they may be okay but I always use Nissan when available. Their exhaust stud kit that comes with the headers are like the hardware you get with stuff from Lowes. Through away immediately. The nuts spin down the studs with my fingers. They need to be flanged clamping nuts, out of round, conical, pinch nuts, whatever you want to call them but SELF LOCKING for sure. Zcardepot has all the choices and info on his site. I bought mine from Nissan for a 4 cylinder Altima. 8mm with flange lock nuts. If MSA's will spin down so easy they will spin off that easy too eventually. People say use lockwashers, don't do that on a header. The pressure should be equal around the manifold stud.