siteunseen

They also say use their stud kit. I can't find a sarcasm font.

They say curiosity killed the cat. I have buried some cats! If there's something to click on I'll click it. Amazing what my dumbass has learned on these things being curious. Now I'm finally figuring out these smart phones and my 13 year old nephew laughs at me like I'm the guy that keeps pushing the elevator button. Oh yeah Zed Head. You reply to each quote as you go. Don't load up up at the end.

A lot of people delete the CSV for the problem it caused you. One less problem it seems. I live in a warm climate so it has no bearing on my 280. If I remember right it just knocks a couple of seconds off cranking anyway. You may have to turn it over twice without it? Overkill in the early EFI systems. The newer ECUs measure the ethanol content for cold start-up.

An easy way to get a guess at fuel pressure is to simply try and pinch or squeeze the hoses. The one coming off the top of the metal filter should be as hard as rock. Then go further upstream and pinch the one that feeds the CSV. The one from hardline to rubber before the injectors etc. Good luck.

A+ plan! Those two are the best money spent.

My dogs butt looks like a wad of chewing gum.

Sunroof and off chart paint. It'll be interesting what it brings. Looks good though.

Both of mine have MSAs ceramic coated 6to1 headers. I love the fit and finish plus the sound is music to my ears. They have their flange thickness down pat. too. I bought Nissan manifold studs and out of round clamp nuts. I'd read a lot of bad fitment issues with all the others. Rebello sales pacesetters but then I read they rusted out too quick. You'll be happy. But going along with the "while I'm at it" mantra you should get the 2.5" performance exhaust. Beautiful sound.

I would check the throttle plate in the throttle body. The sweeper vane under the black cover on the side of the AFM to make sure it moves freely. Then maybe the idle contact on the TPS, the other black box. How long has it been sitting?

I was about to mount mine in front of the passenger's seat after reading a lot of folks doing that but I found a good one that fit in the storage bin so that's where it lives. I'm sure you'll figure out something, they are a MUST have with carbs.

Buy it! I'll go get it and put it on a trailer or in a dumpster to be shipped to you.

That's a Fred Flintstone Z.

Will it crank and idle? Dies out when you give it gas from the pedal? Just reading the cold start valve running the car. That's a good point.

...some people like abused dogs. Muscle Shoals Alabama. $3,240 1972 240Z. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/311576410101255/?notif_id=1611360618541143&notif_t=marketplace_price_drop&ref=notif

Could be the same holes?

Okay I see now. I guess my suggestion would be go a little tighter, maybe it will go away?

What do you have? That's kinda crazy looking to me but I don't know one thing about a '73.

You can get an inch/pounds torque wrench at harbor freight pretty cheap for those specs.

Here's mine... And another informative thread.

The shiny metal goes outward to the manifold or header for Nissan's and that looks like what you have. Okay I read your post and you did right. I would tighten a little more working from the middle out. Or that's what I did and it worked. Do you have square exhaust on the head and the manifold?

The one on the right. Here's what I went by to the T. 240 wiring diagram is at the bottom of the page. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html Thank you @240260280

My favorite thing to do with text like on our forum. It's lazy but sometimes witty too.

I went the easiest way. ZX e12-80 distributor and a Crane ps 20 fireball 1.4 ohm coil. You do take the resistor block out and the tach works. A lot of people run the Pertronix setup so I assume it works good. I know the ZX dizzy requires an adapter sort of part to work on the older Zs. Not sure about the Pertronix.