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I bought mine from this guy... 1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) for...1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) for sale1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) license plate for sale at the Tag Dr. black is dull

For our Canadian friends... We appreciate it! Yes! Y'all brought back my favorite thread.

Hooking up a vacuum gauge is somthing else that helps find problem. You can get them at chain stores with loaner programs for free.

The Good 'ol Boy way as was told to me by Fastwoman. Cost maybe $10? Don't drive around busy streets while watching the gauge, find a nice backroad and there won't be any issues.

@inline6 now's your time to shine some of that knowledge on this fellow restorer. 🤓

My Dad always preached to not put old parts you can afford to replace back on the car. Lots of exceptions to that statement but you all know what I'm saying.

I told my #1 helper and the look on his face was pure disbelief. "WHAT?"

If the mechanical timing sprocket is on hole #3 it won't rev up very good at the top. I set mine on #3 after I rebuilt the motor with new parts. That advances the the explosion somewhat. I run full advance with the ZX distributor on my '72 240. I think it's 17 at idle and 34 degrees at 3,000 rpms. But it won't go much over 6,200 rpms on the street. Why are you reving it to max sitting still? That's completely nuts. No wonder you are constantly complaining. NO OFFENSE INTENDED It's your car, do what you want.

Couldn't find much for the ZX... Here's the Zx man. Maybe he can add some info. @dutchzcarguy

Remember all the 280s with upward bent front bumpers? ☹️ I had one.

You know that 3 and 4 have their own individual runners so I'm wondering if there's anything resulting from that? Maybe try snugging up the intake bolts? look for soot around the runners. Try accepting what the mechanic tells you instead of what you're reading on the www.com. He knows more than you, live with it and do what he suggest.

It's a one way valve. Blow and suck your breath in one side and see if it cuts off the flow. Very simple to test, so your mechanic is most likely correct. Personally I've never seen a bad one on a normal running car.

Whoa! I'd be POed. ☠️ The spot is farther back as you know but the tire jockeys don't.

I wouldnt touch it. That thing looks great! Supply the OE front lip and whatever else then "happy trails to you..." 😁

I'm wondering the age window myself. How much longer will people be interested in a 1972 Datsun?

My .02 cents on new alternators. Have it tested before you leave the parts store. I bought one and it blew the glass fuses, maybe not all of them but the car wouldn't crank and my gauges went limp. Ask the guys on here and found out it was "back charging"? Guys at the store were cocky but got alot nicer after it failed their test. Learned something new that day. 🙃

Any time! LOL

😇Good ole Blue! I miss that rascal.

She had problems with the valve and after a bunch of back and forth finally found one on E-bay from somebody like "sam the fuel guy"??? Her's is a '78 280 but it will be the same as far as I know.

I used piggy back connectors on the nail head studs on the top of the sending unit. Coverd it all with liquid electrical tape. Worked good for me, the rubber boots fell all to pieces on my '72.

I haven't heard of these guys before. They missed the boat on the ZX distributor swap. SkillardSkillardFind what you need to build your vision at Skillard.com We specialize in aftermarket parts for the Datsun and Nissan automotive enthusiast communities. Custom car parts, designed and manufactured i...

You're going to have to use a machine shop so why not let them get the guides? They've got access to all that kind of stuff. I worried myself to death looking for chrome faced rings like Nissan used for my standard 2.4 block and all I could find were steel. My machinist had them in 2 days. It's worth a call I think.

The wireless bras need recharging.

I have a set that I've never used if you need any measurements let me know. Any way these might be helpful?