siteunseen

Use "siteunseen classiczcars.com" and it'll crawl my arse.

Mine wouldn't fully engage 5th because the shift rod hit. You'll see marks where they hit and you grind that down some and it'll go in and stay in 5th. Post #16

I really want him to understand temporarily remove and keep up with it, pictures with date stamps are great. There's nothing I can remember that isn't related to a bigger thing. No parts are there for no reason. You can get away with it now that there so old but some inspections are about original "appearance". You don't want someone to see a bolt zip tied to a hose. If you're going to do that try and hide it if you can. I guess it all depends on your end game. "Carry on"

You need to plug the lines you think are useless with bolt or similar, I used golf tees on the smaller ones. Once you're sure then get brass plugs for the final dress up.

Google images will help you, try it and see if you can find the drain. Damn! You've got my opening 24 hours of topics all about you and your car. Slow down. It's free advice, we're not charging by the hour.

"Internet wisdom" that's too funny an oxymoron like "model prisoner". I've read that as well and I've always used the cone shaped cast iron prop, Asin one too. From what I remember it was the steel impeller causing electrolysis and freezing up the steel bolts in the aluminum front cover? Both my Zs had the OE cast iron pumps and they were still flowing great. I think they're designed better on side by side comparison. I'm an old timer!

@jalexquijano

Use the tire calculator that is in that thread. The 195 is the sidewall size. The lower number is the width, for mine they're 50s for width or rubber meets the asphalt footprint.

I've got 15x7 0 offset Rewinds with 205/50 Hankooks on my '72 and am very happy with the fitment and price. That thread says Falken tires but I was wrong. The 15s are Hankooks and I have Falkens on 16" rewinds on my '77.

Ha! I stumbled right into that. Me and you, George and Lennie. See that^^^, I like bunnies.

I've always used local chain store Felpro. The bolts stay in place with it. Loosen them and just lift the cover off.

There's a little difference on the sides up front. Look close when you put it on. I put one on upside down and the thermostat housing side was a little longer on the staight part before the cam sprocket hump.

I have that same spoiler and the same issue. The wipers start lifting off the windshield too.

@Zed Headwill you make my life easier when you get done here? I know how helpful you are with Zs. I needs some help with more ZZZ'S.

Damn Greg! It's like a junkbox out of Graceland. You know em all.

If you have it on the right wire it should blink as the turn signal. If not the bulb socket is no good. I'd say fuse, bulb filament, female socket then the main switch.

Watered Rodger, the 240. He has a new friend, Archie. Can't wait to shake brakes with one another.

Check your fuses if you haven't already.

I've used a insulation piercing volt meter many times without removing the part I was testing voltage on. It has a needle like end you push through the outer insulation to the copper wire for testing. I can't say how many times I've pricked my fingers to accidentally test MY voltage.

If it's a '75 it should have an n42 head with the pump hole already there, at least mine does.

Join our club. Put those SUs on a 240. I don't think my stock efi supplies the fuel when it could. It seems like a bottleneck compared to the carbs. The carbs get in the redline and won't stop until you decide. Efi seems to have a governor built in somehow with all the components. I'm talking stock stuff, no work arounds. On newer cars and bikes you have to re configure the ecu to get all the juice squeezed out.

He goes from efi to SUs here...