siteunseen

Sam the diesel man is no more on ebay but I googled the info and got these results... https://www.google.com/search?q=5-16-Check-Valve-Diesel-Gas-8mm-One-Way-Fuel-Flow-&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Would slightly slowing down the return cause the fuel to be cooler in the rail? I've wondered if it flows too fast it wouldn't cool down. My aluminum rail is sort of cool if you grab it but I've got one of those ceramic coated headers from MSA. Restrictor for the return line?

I've got that wheel and tire combo on my 240, 205/55 Hankook tires. I put the wide 5 speed out of a '79 ZX too. It's pretty accurate driving side by side with another car while talking back and forth on our phones. I have the r180 that's original to the car. Seems like I used the 4 speed speedo cog in the 5 speed transmission. I'll try and find that old thread where I asked about it later today. Those 15x7 fit perfect and look great. 16s rubbed in the fronts so they're on the 280.

I have these in mine. Cheap too. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html

You all probably have seen this but maybe not? Go to the bottom to the "flow rate injector list" https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/index.html There was a write up using Supra injectors long ago but I can't find it now.

That looks really good. Maybe a flat or matte clear spray would keep them looking good for a long time?

My '77's were not painted. The replacements I bought from rockauto.com are unpainted also.

You could try dropping the nozzle another round. Most people say that 2.5 is a base setting. That's where I started. Good luck. Added info you most likely know already. Setting Mixture 0. Warm up car 1. Screw both jets all the way up to the top 2. Screw the jets down 2.5 turns (default starting point) 3. Take the car for a run and listen closely for popping in the exhaust (rich), popping in the intake (lean) and note power 4. Screw both jets up or down 1/2 turn and take another run to see impact. 5. Repeat 3&4 and do 1/4 adjustments until you are happy 6. Take the car for a spirited 30min drive with plug wrench then while driving fast on a long stretch, hit clutch, kill motor then pull over to side of road, look at all plugs and compare colour. If there is a difference between the front 3 and rear 3 then the fuel jets need tweaking. Adjust the darker 3's carb by turning up the jet to lean the mixture a 1/4 turn If all plugs are too dark then turn both jets up 1/2 a turn. 7. Repeat 6 until you are happy. All plugs should be the same colour and very light brown. Listen for popping out the front to tell if you go too lean. Don't worry, you can take your time and do this leisurely over a couple of days to fine tune and colour match your plugs.

You could easily pull the valve cover and pour oil right on the cam and all the other stuff, rockers and valve stems. The valve seals and lash pads too. If you aren't in a hurry you should do a valve adjustment double check from the rebuild. A lot of times lash pads fall off after rebuild settings. Mine did and I was fully attentive, half drunk but paid attention.

Take the wire off the coil and spin it with no plugs. It'll need the oil on the valve train after sitting so long. Follow atlanticz advice, I always have.

A new tool huh? Would you make this girl a smaller guitar? About a violin size.

Grannyknot wrote the books on 240s, I only know how to read them.

I've wondered if it's a misunderstanding in raising and lowering the nozzles by way of the direction the mixture nuts being turned.

The valves used to be different heights to compensate front and rear for acceleration. To simplify adjustment I have two of the short ear lids. Another member here drilled the holes higher for the float pins to be the same.

That's fantastic work Sir. I had the sense to saw mine off but the bottom of my tunnel was rotted farther back and too jagged for a plate. I was going to do as Zedhead mentioned, just put a big 'ol wad of JB Weld in there but lucky for me I found an N42 on an old junkyard 280.

They put them on some ZXs, not sure of the years. '81-'83?

Judging by one of your pics all that black soot around that jagged hole confirms exhaust is going through the egr tunnel. I had a golf ball size hole in my n47 from exhaust gas rot. If you don't have to deal with the state inspection I would highly, highly recommend going to an n42.

My old fluid looked like Sunkist and had about the same consistency. I'm sure it was low but everything under mine was dry. It'd just been sitting for 10 years.

Mr Obvious, I had to talk into getting in the car. I was already 3 sheets in the wind. Drove over a bridge looking for him that said "Welcome to Arkansas". I turned around and found the Man with some shot glasses of home brew on a "plank". I'll remember that until my dementia takes over.

He is most definately not "slow" or on the SPECTRUM. I met him, the Sasquatch in Memphis. Really weird dude but I let him in my car and we hit up some local breweries. We both got weird. Redneck from Alabama with an engineer from Philly.

I'm sorry but I just read this. Seems like the coolant wires were different colors than the thermotime wires? I'm away from my cars at the moment but you might could figure it out by looking at these pics on Blue's Tech Tips https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Here's some quick cleaning spots that will help a lot. Metal files work good, fingernail files too. I have an old points file that works great. 320 sandpaper works. Blow it all out with an air compressor. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

I know a ZX shroud fits a 280 radiator. 😊

I'd leave brand new plugs out for compression test. Motor turns freely but the test fitting will build psi. Do all six the same test procedure. No variant possibility. All the same. Stay focused.

The valve seat came loose? Did it beat the piston to death or did you shut it down when you heard the racket? There are cylinder head repair shops all around my part of Alabama so I'd think you could find something close by. If it were mine I would go by the oldest machine shop you can find and explain your problem. You might save $$$ taking the head off and have them replace the seats, probably old bronze now, and grind your valve edges. Install new valve seals too. Put the head back on yourself. That way your Z stays in your garage.