siteunseen

My machinists used Manleys for a Dodge Hemi motor I believe is what he said. He had to cut my E31 for the larger seats. I am pretty sure he charged $10 per hole. He said for new valve seats it was important to lap the valves for a good seal. It's still sitting on a shelf in my spare bedroom.

There it is! $40 too. Keep it simple.

Click on that google search. A lot of stuff on the SUs.

https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=MOalXeK-IIec_Qacxq-gBA&q=240z+su+carb+diagram+&oq=240z+su+carb+diagram+&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-hp.3..33i22i29i30.5004.17168..18230...0.0..0.159.2435.3j17......0....1.......8..41j41i299j41i10j41i13i275j41i10i299j0j46j0i131j0i22i30j33i299j33i160.P2aVneooU_0

I like those! My Mom has a closet full of old leather purses. I'll have an Aigner fuel flap. My rubber/plastic one, where the fold up is, pushes my fuel door open sometimes.

We'll try not to disappoint.

I have 15" Rewinds on my 240, 16" on my 280. 0 offset and bought them super cheap at Discount Tire Direct. I had to use their credit card with the rebates and discounts they were around $150 each with Hankook tires and free shipping. MSA has some really cool matte black Rewinds too. If you can wait until Black Friday you'll save a lot of money.

Sheesh, you guys are tough! I'm getting those MSD wires that go around the front of the cylinder head when I get really bored this winter. Maybe Santa won't hold my naughtiness against me this year?

I did this a year or two ago so things get fuzzy but here goes. After much reading I took a small glass jar that my floats could move up and down without hitting the sides, made a mark 23mm down from the roof of the float chamber lid. Then I hooked up a low pressure fuel pump, running out of a gas jug to the float lid bung. Hooked the pump to a battery and after a few tries I got the float tangs bent just right so the valves shut off at the line. 23mm down from the roof. It was the dead of winter and I had nothing else to do and after doing this my 240 runs better than ever. Plenty of fuel where before they were starved. I found this out going up a steep mountain one day and the car started running so poorly it wouldn't pull anymore. I was running off the back carb only, 3 cylinders. I rolled the car backwards and cut the steering wheel so it was perpendicular to the road. The bowls filled up and I could go about another quarter mile up the mountain. Took about three or four times to reach the top. Here's my setup. Click on "siteunseen replied to a topic" and you'll see all the pictures. If you need more info maybe can help, let me know. Cliff

I will do my best Saturday morning when I'm back home. It's on my laptop.

I put brass plugs on my 72's. Works great and looks pretty good. Not as good as rossiz's but good enough for me. Gratuitous pic...

Check your float tang too. You don't want them bent up like ramps. They need to look like speed bumps. Here's a thread that has some good photos. Click on "siteunseen replied to a topic"

If I remember right I didn't want to do it so bad I went looking for a reason not to. I live in a hot climate too but I do use the defrost on occasion. Anyhow you can easily hook your new hoses on the two nipples off the heater core. Close one off and blow into the other to check the core for leakdown. I wouldn't blow very hard or you may create a leak.

I saw this on FB. Don't know one thing about it. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/951147868579072/

I rembered something from a few years ago. Ztherapy set me some valves that were way short. I called Bruce and he said they most likely were Datsun Roadster valves. Overnighted them from California to Alabama. Fantastic customer service.

@jonathanrussell Has some good information on the valves too. He's very helpful.

Here's the hoses you can get from Nissan. I bought these a year or so ago. Maybe they're still available? Zcardepot.com has them also. They definitely aren't braided. My needle valve advice from Bruce at ztherapy.com was to stack those small washers to get the height you need. All those pics are on my laptop. I can post up what I have later today. Cliff

Do you think the dealer installed aluminum 5 slots show better than the OE scallop hubcaps? Just curious how the judges work that in. Great looking car! Both sets look fantastic to me.

I found everything on here. Read a lot of threads for easier ways and viewed a bunch of pictures. I would recommend removing the passenger's seat if you have it off the road for awhile. Quarter inch sockets too. Get the firewall grommets and the 2 hoses, the valve and you're set. I put the hoses on the valve then fed them through the firewall and then attached the valve. Leave the gromments loose also on the engine bay side. They go a certain way as do the hoses. The Nissan hoses aren't braided anymore and have arrows for flow direction. Google "heater core valve replacement classiczcars.com". Read the newer ones then do an image search. @jfa.series1 has the best pictures. One more thing I didn't do I wish I had was mark the wire's position where it goes through the hold down barrel. Luckily I found a good enough kink to go by but it was a pain getting that cable adjusted just right. Good luck! A second "one more thing", just snug up the hose clamps so you can still twist the hoses until you get it right. I think I used a 10" extension and put a pillow over the front seat mounting thing. Don't know what it's called but it'll kill your ribs. Okay I'm out...

Same here. It was not the heater core and from all I read they don't leak, it's the water c o c k valve and that small hose that are normal suspects. I changed those out and all is good now. That valve and the hoses are still (were a couple of years ago) from Nissan. I have the part numbers in a file at home if you need them but zcardepot.com has them for about the same money. It's a real pain in the arse though but you really need to fix it or the floor pan will rot. That's a much bigger job. You can bypass the core until you're ready for the fix.

I use the front crossmember. It has a square plate thing in the middle that I put my floorjack under. Then once it's up I put jack stands where the A arms meet the crossmember. It's a tight squeeze getting the jack and stands in but it works for me. On the rear I do the same pretty much. Jack under the diff mount I think then stands where the rear A arms meet. I try to avoid under the rocker panel on mine, it's really soft under there. Best of luck! You've found a deep well of knowledge here. Not me though, I'm pretty new to 240s.

On my car there's a male on the temp gauge sensor female on the wire and it would plug onto here...

I'd think after driving it should drop down a bit. Fill the tank too. Nice looking car. Edit: I know when I rotate my tires it sits higher for a minute.

I'd never heard about the Batman Angle so you know I googled it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dutch_angle "Dutch angles were used extensively in the satirical 1960s Batman TV series (and its 1966 film spin-off) in which each villain had his or her own angle, as they were "crooked".

Dumb question, duh it's me, why is his connectors pointing towards the distributor and not the radiator? Optical illusion or maybe I stayed out too late last night.