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I bought a .460 Schneider cam kit in 2015 to put in my e31 that has the new bigger valves. I tried shrouding the valves and smoothing the intake runners. Am not happy with what I did so it got shelved. Now I found this p90 that is a better version of the e31. Peanut shaped combustion chambers are newer and supposedly better. I'll post as many measurements that I can between the two asap and let you all help me decide what head to put $850 cam kit in. Running a ben moore paint store by myself and it's feast or famine there for 10 hours a day. So this gives me something to do during slow times which seem less now that I'm the paint king #1. Anyhow I'm getting my fingernails greasy again which is nice and raises my Datsun blood pressure again after a 5 year hiatus. More tomorrow...

So far so good. Now I know why it was so clean and made that slight pop noise when the valves came out. Dover cylinder head did a refresh sometime in it's past. The heat sensor was on the rear.

I feels soft and squishy like assembly lube. I'm thinking the p.o had the good sense to coat it real good before storage.

#10

Definitely glue with fuel resistant black rtv.

Trade with you? That's cool as hell right there.

Just realized your pic is a front carb. Mine are the rear. Things look a lot different.

Take the screws completely out then with the lid still flat on the chamber turn it 90 degrees in the opposite direction of the vent bung. Then turn it just enough to get that indention before the screw hole under the nub under the dome. Once you figure it out it's easy. An "ah ha!" moment. Turned Indention lined up lift up when you can whala

I'm going to try and take pictures of this paper weight as I make it lighter. Bought it from a guy that works at a scrapyard. $20 dollar scrap price but an old friend that works there knew what a Datsun 280ZX was and gave him $25. Called me and now it's my toy for the next month or so. With you guys asking about it I'll get it done. Pictures so far.

What coil do you have?

I bought an aftermarket adjustable fpr when I put my aluminum fuel rail on, it was crap. Ended up using the 1978 OE fpr. One in, one out plus the return and vacuum nipple.

"Home is where the head is" I'm going to take it to my job and disassemble it when I can. Bag and tag all the parts then bead blast it. In the meantime I can read up on the mod to figure out what to do next. Hopefully I can use this one instead of the 53 year old E31 I was planning on putting that cam kit on. Most likely use up all the parts I've collected to make a higher compression motor then drop it in the 280. I'm not touching that 240 unless I have to, fenders already have elbow dents all over the tops. @Jeff G 78 I found this for less than shipping that P79! $475 less than the ZX motor. Does this sound about right @Diseazd? - shaving the head .080" - installing 1975-78 L28 valves which have .080" longer stems - shimming up the cam towers .080" - shimming up the spring bases by .080

Low battery maybe? Could be a vacuum line fell off? Check your vacuum. Hope it's nothing! Good luck

Watch your inbox. I remember you use the Z valves in the p79 heads.

Was $25 too much?

I'm all about learning and enjoy the "local spoken" translations you share with me/us. I ask the locals to wherever I'm visiting where they eat and drink instead of shiny signs on the main road. Borat is where I'm headed with this. You would be very similar to that character if you came over here. A good ernest guy making friends with a huge language barrier. If I came to your neighborhood with my country bumpkin "mirenukert" you all would have me strung up on a high tree limb. Thank you for being friendly with us, learning our language and very often teaching us. You are a character! (that's positive)

This seems like a good regulator for not too much money. I ran a Holley blue low pressure pump and regulator on my boat and it was flawless for years, high cost up front though. This is one from amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adjustable-Regulator-Injection-Accessories/dp/B08S757C76/ref=asc_df_B08S757C76/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507600687300&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15473091677829872037&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=200524&hvtargid=pla-1212457430535&psc=1

That's where mine are for my 240. The newer 280 has them attached to the side of the compact spare tire.

I think it's good to run the cars once a month with the radiator cap off so you can see coolant flowing clockwise over the radiator, that'd be towards the passenger's side on American Zs . You need to move the fuel AND coolant once in awhile. I try for every Sunday but realistically maybe 2 a month.

Are you using a carb fuel rail, supply and return? That's where the reducer is. Small hole on return keeps it bottled down to 3-ish pounds.

I've got 2 Zs with the plastic pre pump filter. They stay full of fuel. Does yours? It looks close to empty in your pic which could be something simple in the flow direction. If those pumps aren't fed adequately they'll overheat and live a short life.

Music and boobies will never get old. Good to hear from you Mr Betty!

This would be my pick for a popular image but that girl leaning on the green 240 is at the top. Grayme Suckling cross flow radiator is 2nd on my screen.

If that's your faceplate in post #1, I would try a chrome or aluminum oil Sharpie on the lines. I had great results from this thanks to the tip from @psdenno I found mine and it's silver not aluminum.