siteunseen

I bought one from Nissan in February, said they still had plenty too. $100 with my discount.

Here's a picture of my faceplate for my OE radio in my '72. You're going to need the metal back too. EDIT: It does look rectangular in the 3rd photo.

I was going to say, my neighbors backyard. Very common in my county. It's mostly agricultural or rural disticts? very few property rules.

You can pop those off in a second with some needle nosed pliers. Put them under the ball against the metal and pull up.

Guessing by that railroad crosstie, that tarps been on there since before bungee cords were invented?

Some reading but hopefully you'll get the "light bulb". http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm Thanks again, and again and again... to @240260280 Fuel Pump Checks Author: 79-280-ZX (---.sympatico.ca) Date: Sep 27, 6:48am Pumping from one can to another with no restriction (i.e. no FPR) should result in zero PSI on the outlet line but the pump should push at least one litre in 30 seconds. If you hook up can 1->pump->FP gauge->FPR->can 2 then you should see 37 PSI pressure and still get ~ 1 litre in 30 seconds out of the return port of the FPR. If you do not get 1 litre in 30 seconds the pump is probably toast. If you use a 2 litre coke bottle and you see air bubbles coming out of the return hose with this set up the pump is sucking air. If you do not see air bubbles with the can to can method but you do when hooked up to the fuel tank then suspect a hole / leak in the tank pickup tube or the pickup tube is above the level of fuel in the tank. Wayne Monteath Masham, Quebec. 1979 280ZX 2+2 1981 280ZX 2+2 Fuel Pump Control Circuit Information Author: 79-280-ZX (---.sympatico.ca) Date: Jul 1, 9:34am Well we have some confusion here. This question comes up at least once a week and gets as many wrong answers as correct ones. So, here in one basket, is the correct answers for all years from 75 to 83. The fuel pump control for the 75 - 77 N/A. When the engine is not running the flap in the AFM is closed and the fuel pump control switch in the AFM is OPEN. When the key is turned from "OFF" to "RUN" there is no continuity through the fuel pump switch in the AFM and the fuel pump should not run. When the key is turned to "START" the engine turns over AND the fuel pump relay closes which starts the fuel pump. As air is sucked past the flap in the AFM it opens and the FUEL PUMP contacts in the AFM close. When the engine starts the air flow through the AFM keeps the fuel pump running because the switch is closed. If the engine stops / stalls the flap in the AFM closes and the fuel pump control switch in the AFM opens thereby shutting off the fuel pump. The fuel pump control for the 78 - 81 N/A. When the engine is not running the oil pressure switch is closed and the transistor at the 'L' terminal of the alternator is "closed" and BOTH idiot lights for ALT and OIL are ON. When the key is turned to ON the idiot lights are on and the fuel pump is OFF. The fuel pump only "starts" when the key is turned to Start. These years used three relays to control the fuel pump. If the engine stops / stalls the loss of BOTH ALT and OIL signals simultaneously shuts off the fuel pump. The fuel pump control for the 82 - 83 N/A. For 82 - 83 N/A models the fuel pump starts and runs for ~ 5 seconds when the key is turned from "off" to "on" and then shuts the fuel pump "off" until the key is further turned to "start" at which time the fuel pump starts up again. The ECU uses pin 13 to control the fuel pump operation since it does not have a FPCM. When the ignition switch is turned from "off" to "on" the main EFI relay closes and supplies battery voltage to pin 27 of the ECU. The ECU then supplies battery voltage to pin 13 of the ECU to close the Fuel Pump Relay for ~ 5 seconds. When the ignition switch is further advanced to the "start" position the "start" signal is sent to pin 26 of the ECU which in turn allows the ECU to provide battery voltage to pin 13 thus starting the fuel pump again. The ECU also monitors the Ignition Coil Trigger on pin 18 coming from the '-' ignition coil terminal. If the engine stops / stalls or the engine speed drops below 50 RPM the ECU removes battery voltage from pin 13 which causes the Fuel Pump relay to open and stop the fuel pump. The fuel pump control for the 81 - 83 Turbo models. For all 81 - 83 Turbo models the fuel pump starts and runs for ~ 5 seconds when the key is turned from "off" to "on" and then shuts the fuel pump "off" until the key is further turned to "start" at which time the fuel pump starts up again. The 81 Turbo ECCS used pin 16 to control the fuel pump operation since it did not have a FPCM. All 82 - 83 Turbo models used a Fuel Pump Control Modulator in conjunction with the ECCS to control the fuel pump operation. If the engine stops / stalls the loss of the ignition signal stops the fuel pump under control of the ECCS and / or the FPCM. Wayne Monteath Masham, Quebec. 1979 280ZX 2+2 1981 280ZX 2+2 Post Edited (Sep 18, 1:17am) More excellent info from Wayne Monteath

We were thinking alike! Maybe just good ole common sense? EDIT: You posted in that thread too!

Keep coming back! Not like the court ordered kind.

Got to have the spell checker too.

I got it. New plugs work everytime. From the both of us.

Here's my picture.

I filled a section of PVC pipe with lacquer thinner and soaked mine in it for a few days. Worked out very well. I bet I got that idea from Mark Maras...

Those cans must be lights and a/c vents.

Pimps were jealous of these guys!

What!?!? Sandpaper, wire brush, steel wool, your toothbrush... I'm sorry. You're new to this.

It's betweem the back 2 plugs...

Yes. That's why we straight wire the pump, to bypass all the switches and $^!#. Temporarily of course. Don't leave it straight on the battery for too long, just for testing. Good luck.

I apologize ahead for saying stupid stuff, , but aren't there some fuel pump shut off switches on these cars in case of an accident? Like the oil pressure sender and one in the AFM? I'm sure ZedHead has posted this earlier but I'm lazy and haven't read the whole thing.

#7 post he says it's not the standard 240 tank. Hopefully he'll get it straightened out.

I cannot recall the member that did that but I've passed it on many times for others. I wish I was able to take credit for it but no. I'll remember as soon as I disengage. @Walter Moore thank you!

Music yo my ears...LOL

I cleaned mine with 0000 steel wool then coated with Helmsman satin poly. It's closer to red mahogany than any color I've seen on one. Mine is a '72 though. Possibly the earlier ones were other colors?

Seems to me if you pulled the coil wire off the center of the distributor cap, disabling all spark to the plugs, and then tried a quick spin of the motor in the morning then pulled the plugs to see how wet they were? A simple way to test your suspicions I would think. Editited after another thought; Pull the plugs out and spin the motor to see if fuel spurts out?

Here's an Excel chart I think your talking about? Distributor advance curves S30-S130 (1).xls