siteunseen

Insured through classic car insurers like Haggertys much sooner. Way better than lumping them in with my other cars.

I've not seen one with the ring connector either. Pre EFI has a single wire for the gauge only, the 280s have one for the gauge and one for the high pressure fuel pump cutoff. I'm pretty sure I used the yellow size crimp bullet connector on my '72. You could buy the new sender then figure out your connection when you get it.

I've gotten more than one, just remembered I ask but never got an answer.

I have and was not long ago. A very generic username too. They are a "supporting member" and active on the site so I'm not worried.

You beat me to the answer Steve. Much easier to try the volume knob.

Trying to make sense of the dial up more fuel thinking. Mine is about half way between 0 and 10 on the volume knob. That's back to normal running on my 280. Resistance is trying to cut my dog's toenails.

I thought it was for the hairspray. You know...brushes and all that a starter needs.

If it's already lean as mine was just consider without the pot switch you're at -10????? whatever. So I add the potentiometer and can make it 0 or dial it all the way back and lean it out to -10. Go full the other way and I can fatten it up so much it barely idles. So to quote some politician it's all relative to what it is today as to what it can be tomorrow.

Here's what I went by. It's really easy and even easier to remove if it doesn't help. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

My '77 ran horribly up until about 2,500 RPM. I jerked and bucked between running good and bad, popped through the throttle blade too but above that certain RPM range it ran great. I read and read until I was overwhelmed by possibilities of what it could be. I decided to take a chance and went to Radio Shack and got the volume knob for a stereo. $5 dollars and some speaker wire I have plenty of now I have the potentiometer in the passenger's floor board so I can fine tune while driving. From what I gathered in all that reading was the ECU would get out of spec over time and the pot addition brought it back to life. It worked great for me and now I have a new something to distract me while driving. Page 3 is the good stuff out of the whole thread...

Has whoever tried moving the fronts to the rear? I haven't been keeping up so just a thought. Good luck.

No. I bought the rewinds and new tires after new everything else. High speed shake is usally the tie rods. Shaking when you're coming to stop is the rotors. You could have an alignment done. That might help.

Damn time bandits!

I bought both sets of Rewinds from Discount Tire. They wanted $45 for the lug nuts but I found them cheaper. This was 2011 and 2015 and they were $25 or $30 back then from those guys on ebay. Exact same set with the same black extension adapter for tire tool or impact gun. Same wheels as Blitzed shows in post #33. I have them on my 240 and 280.

I've bought 2 sets from these guys. They are high quality too, not cheap as you would think off ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/110687628566?hash=item19c57f2d16:g:l8cAAOxyn9BRZsRz&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8DfMmYIdef%2BSZiKbYt7w33lBvjkAJOjX5orwX4%2FBMHywvT7ril9%2F1yrM1Oq4%2BL9jh9b%2BP2i5R806emTN6nE4EYlaunW5JvbVJY80L%2B7p8Je3KoRrA12ak7NSQW4Xv6WsLh8sNwoW0%2BVY8zD6cCZ2r%2BajJxaYv7DqBMoakhE5IEFvYtWot4Mo0OvI70SvwGCET1gDauTgDGdIbRNR1NUt6pWwZK3huPdozLHyjIUTSsMoHNBd%2BnZLv1S6%2BwvgbhIxSuQSgCcYwsB3TBknxSLIfprt466rsGwHSFUC7pXBydrJDqPfeI9%2F41hQSVyU5pl19w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5Kq9qHlYQ

Ive only seen the acorn "fat bottomed" lugs. If he let you borrow his wheels surely he'll let you borrow the fastners. Not much good when they're not together. My aluminum slots had the self centering acorns with a washer to keep from scarring up the aluminum. My rewinds don't. I buy them off ebay for less than $20. Seven years ago price! They probably $50 now.

Sounds like another California Datsun. They started out the right way and ending up going the other way. Not real Datsun guys I believe. Market had a hole and they crapped in it. I can't recall the the name of that Ebay Datsun rapist that got me when I first bought online parts. His prices were outrageous but he had what I needed.

That looks great. I suggests you check your torsion control arm bushings. They play a big part in your steering wheel feel and shake.

I used a square 9 volt battery to get the pluses and minuses right when I cared about loud. Now I use my phone and a bluetooth speaker when, hardly never!, I go long. The exhaust is Rod Stewart sounding. I've always thought 12 volt car stuff was the lower 4 ohms because of the lower power 12 volt systems have. 110/120 house volts is 8 ohms. Is it 110-220 or 120-240 AC volts? I've heard both over my life but would like to know.

From what I remember when putting the stock radio back into my '72 the ground was through the chassis. The black wire is from the antenna.

Post #9

Here's some stuff I found on two pipes you could read over that may be helpful? https://www.google.com/search?q=twice+pipes+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=twice+pipes+classiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160.10873j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 https://www.google.com/search?q=dual+exhaust+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=sRYaZL_XLcGyqtsPyoy2yAE&ved=0ahUKEwj_86am8e39AhVBmWoFHUqGDRkQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=dual+exhaust+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIFCAAQogQyBQgAEKIEMgUIABCiBDoICAAQogQQsAM6BQghEKsCOgcIABANEIAEOggIABAIEB4QDToKCAAQCBAeEA0QD0oECEEYAVCwBljPO2CVS2gBcAB4AIAB0gGIAaEUkgEGMC4xNy4ymAEAoAEByAECwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Something I realized after a couple is when tightening the lock nut the adjuster nut will turn and get the spec off so I always hold the 14mm adjuster while I tighten the 17mm lock nut. Another thing I do that most people laugh at but why not? . Our motors are tilted pretty hard if you look so I've marked the center off my cam towers with a Sharpie and get the lobes lined up with my mark instead off straight up. It's one of those why not OCD things but...why not.

I thought my 240's core was bad when I bought the car but after pressure testing it with positive air or my shop-vac sucking negative pressure I realized it was okay. The flow valve was where all the leaking was coming from. Check the core somehow before you buy another one. It may be the same situation I had, still a tough job but nowhere near as much as replacing the heater core. I suggest taking the passenger's seat out and put a couch cushion over the door sill and use 1/4" drive sockets.

Yes! That valence makes all the difference in the world when you get up in the MPHs. You saw that it is adjustable too so you can get it up close and snug with the spoiler. The two 10mm below the side marker lights were my biggest pain.