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I used this stuff to fix my broken console. Used it on the bottom side mainly and smoothed out the excess on the top side with fine sandpaper. Turned out good and is still holding up. That was 2015. There's other "strengths" too.

Looks close to "Scott Hyatt's" 260Z http://www.gladiatorroadracing.ca/group-8-historic-gtu.html

I put the wide B 5 speed in my '72. Wouldn't stay in gear until I ground it down. You can do all the install and see what happens. Taking the shifter out is not hard if you need to grind some off.

Hard starting could be from loosing pressure...the gas you're smelling. I good valve adjustment seems to make mine start quicker.

#1 at my house way back when. Now I'm a Frosted mini-wheats guy too, no milk, straight out of the box. No dairy...how bad that sucks, I miss cheese.

There's no fuel in the cabin so if that's where you smell it it's gotta be the weatherstripping. Easy way is to extend the tailpipe, maybe turn it down too. The rear hatch is usually the suspect. If it's under the hood, most likely the cold start injector if everything else is right. You can make a new gasket out of a cereal box or gasket material. I used Fruity Pebbles or Coco Puffs, can't remember? Stay away from bran.

I like your valve cover. I sand blasted a few over the years but the last one I added some shine with super fine sandpaper. I did the Nissan part and liked it so I went further and shined up the 3 lines that run the length of the cover. Then cleared it with high heat satin. I don't have a picture of the final iteration but you see the start...

The 1st thing you should do is take the valve cover off and drench the cam with oil. You put ATF in the spark plug holes. Once you get all the moving parts oiled up put a socket on the the cam gear and slowly turn it clockwise looking from the radiator. Leave the plugs out and turn it a little everyday. Start cleaning stuff. There's a bunch of places spider webs can be a pain. The AFM sweeper arm and the TPS contacts are especially important. Open the air cleaner box and look for acorns and other critter $^!# they hide.

Mix a quart of ATF with a quart of acetone in a spray bottle for penetrating fluid. Works great and is a lot cheaper than PB Blaster.

You have a Maxima N47 cylinder head on top of an L28 block. Maxima's had 2.4 liter blocks which would be stamped L24. A Maxima head on a L28 block raises the compression and runs better. I would guess you have the original block from 1975 which would be an N42 with dished pistons. That is not the head that came on that L28 block but you do have the parts for a good running car. Clean it out and get familiar with the car before worrying about the motor. You have a lot of reading to do. And to be clear, do not try and start the motor as it sits, in fact take the battery out of the car while you're working on getting things figured out. Running the fuel pump would be terrible this early.

You'll have to grind on the shifter or cut the tunnel's sheet metal. So my advice or common sense to you would be drive it and make sure it goes in each gear without popping out when you get on the gas pretty strong. Do reverse too before you put the console back on. Another "good idea" while you there is the choke lever mount from Mr Art Singer.

Edit: I understand how you're doing it now. Stupid question but will your transmission jack go up high enough to get it out/in? I used a motorcycle lift and it wouldn't go very high.

You're right as usual. There is an N but no M in the casting number. More coffee. @nowak1981 you have a hard to find cylinder head, don't get rid of it.

I got my P90 head down and took some pictures. Zed Head it was right there before ours eyes but I didn't see it because I didn't think the N47 had one yet, but I was wrong. Here's his N47 head with a hole in the passenger's side just like the P90. My '77 N47 doesn't have this. Must be a ZX thing? And the Maxima head is a MN47.

They're what kick those fans on I think. Went in the side of the head. Another thing is the '79 ZX had an N42 block didn'? We shall see. This guy is ready get busy I'm sure. It's going to be a challenge going from a Crown Victoria to an early 280Z with fuel injection. Here's something you might consider depending on your long term plans.

My '77 had an N47 head and a '79 ZX motor I bought had an N47 head. I think it's a 1979 280ZX motor. The cut head temp sensor, the fuel rail fan are what I'm judging by. That xenon page has some mistakes on the head dates. The '75 and '76 came with an N42 block and an N42 cylinder head, great running combo from the factory. I'm pretty sure the first ZX, the 1979, came with an N42 block? You will play hell finding an N42 cylinder head. That's the one before they did the EGR N47 head. N42s are a lot simpler and cleaner looking. You can pull the motor and transmission together and start working on rebuilding the motor. When you get frustrated or run out of parts/money then go to the interior and body work. 2 years is a good timeline or at least that's what it took me by myself. Have fun, you seem to have a good mindset going to work on your Z. Know when to walk away for a few days is the lesson I learned. https://datsunzgarage.us/heads/

Engine codes... https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/engines.html The number on the block below spark plug #6 and #5 should match the number on the ID tag inside the driver's door. Yours won't but anyway...

Get some boxes and zip-lock baggies to put everything in, label what it is with a Sharpie. Take pictures of everything, you won't regret it. This is the best book by far to get if your like me and need to read about the cars before rebuilding. It covers mainly the drivetrain, engine and transmission. Here's the thread on "waking the sleeping beast" that Carl Beck wrote up. It's for a 240 but worth a read as a lot of it overlaps with the 280. Post #8... The book you need to read about 3 times before you ever even start disassembly. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

You bought vales and guides already, as seen in the pictures you posted. You replaced the Far 311 cam with a street able Schneider. What all was changed with the new cam? There is a lot more to that than just swapping out the actual cam. With your new parts already bought and paid for just go ahead and take the leap. Have the head rebuilt, new valve seals that will not interfere with your cam's lobes. Make sure all valves are cut the same and seating properly. Don't get in hurry finding a cylinder head rebuilder. Find one that is recommended by mechanics or even better some machine shops. You've got time now moving to Spain and getting settled. Make a plan and budget. Don't waste time or money.

These guys will help you with your car, they love to help. .https://forums.hybridz.org/search/?q=petronix&quick=1 We are more original equipment hence the name "CLASSICZCARS"

Nothing is sacred anymore.

Here's the basic grounds that should be cleaned and shined up. It doesn't take too long, an hour at the most, and really helped my EFI 280. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Those are good. Battery and alternator seem fine. I do believe you could have starter issues.

My gauge reads just like yours, needle lines up on the right side of the M but like everyone else's it isn't too hot. It's the gauge. Those laser temperature guns work good but if you don't have one a meat thermometer worked for me. This is idling in my garage, thermostat open and flowing coolant. I see your choke light is off. Glad you got that fixed.

I would have the starter tested for sure. It's easy to get off on these cars and free testing at chain stores. Also clean and tightening the wires really good could help. Might be a bad ground or the spade connector on the solenoid needs cleaning and crimping down a little tighter. I did that backwards . Check the wiring 1st then pull the starter. Sounds like a shitty remanufactured starter to me. I've learned to have them tested before I buy. Starters, alternators etcetera. You should check the voltage on the battery when it won't crank, possibly low of water/acid or a failing battery. Do a 24 hour 2 amp charge and make sure the fluid is topped off. Leave the covers off while charging and put an old rag or towel around the acid/water holes. Should show around 14 volts while running, 13 at least. Cold weather is a battery killer.