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That's great news, now something positive is happening. Is this the "nail in the coffin" for DP,LLC?

They don't have Grose jets anymore, or at least I didn't get them a couple of months ago with my rebuild kit. Seems like I googled them and they're not made anymore. The ones now look like OE Nissan but with a skinnier pin, they look like valve stems without the hat. More like these, no ball bearing.

I figured out the other day while cleaning up my mess in the garage and stuffing another motor in there that I have a ready to go .030" over bored F54. It came with that persimmons and white 240 I bought. It was a guys project, he needed some money and sold it. It's got new dished pistons though so I'm going to get some flat ITMs and put a P79 that I have and do that build Dizeased does. I want to keep my orange car on the safe side and dependable. It's going to have the E31 that was part of the guys project and a medium cam, slightly notched block for the bigger valves. That's the plan.

Well my larger exhaust valves hit on 2.4 block. The intakes barely squeeze by. Maybe I'll do both but that would make my combustion area bigger resulting in less compression, know?

Well here I am again reading the intakes need notching. Which is it?

Mine was lean and ran bad upto 2,500 rpms, bucking and sputtering, then it would start pulling. The adjustable potentiometer made it behave throughout the rpms. A mechanic friend told me that clamping the return line built up more fuel pressure and made it run better, he said I needed a adjustable fuel pressure regulator. But that wasn't the case and saved me about $145.

That sucks. Maybe it'll be okay but the 2.8 wouldn't bother you would it?

Here's a remanufactured one from O'reilly's http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDF0/M23049/02535.oap?year=1973&make=Nissan&model=240Z&vi=5142641&ck=Search_C0401_5142641_-1&pt=C0401&ppt=C0025

Boy oh boy do I feel bad. Whole body ache, my head's worse. 102 temperature this morning. I know I'm sick when I don't even want to read classiczcars.com.

So the lash pad is measured from the recess of the valve tip? Good to know I've been wrong all along saying mine were .160s. Schneider says I'm getting .175 -.190s with my regrind. I've learned a lot through this thread, thanks Geoff. Check Schneider. Thats where msa gets their cams and componets. Might save some you money.

I considered cutting the acuator arm with bolt cutters to get the pump out. Rebuilding it on the car would be awesome if you could do it.

Proof that most anything Japanese last much longer than American. 105 years old, wow.

I bought some 15x7 Konigs with hankook 205/50-15 that are fantastic on my 240. No rubbing and leaves the car lower to the ground.

That potentiometer trick made mine my '77 run better than anything. $5 at radio shack wired into the cabin for fine tuning. Now to measure the resistance and get one you have to adjust with a small screwdriver for the permanent fix.

Mine has the same Yorx A/C system. It's a pain alright. I just woke up so I'm still a little fuzzy headed but here's what I remember. There's a bottom bracket going to the motor mount that I took loose so the compressor can fall back and down. Loosened the alternator too, took the bottom radiator hose off just so I'd have some room. You'll have to unbolt those 4 bolts holding the bracket to the head and hopefully you can pull it back far enough to get the old one off. Be careful that you don't break the inspection light's cover. If you put a socket on the pulley's nut and turn it one way (can't remember which way) it should loosen the A/C belt so you can get it out of the way. Be careful not to break the insulator in between the pump and the head, you'll need to take it off too, there's gaskets that go in between the insulator and the head then one between the pump and the insulator. I can't remember the process exactly, just bits and pieces. It'll take a some time if you're not familiar with it, like I wasn't. Just start taking stuff loose and you'll figure it out. You might want to take the valve cover off and pull the actuator back and forth by hand to make sure it is bad. I replaced mine not knowing that my fuel tank was full of crud and was causing the fuel problem. Get a gas can and put it in front of the radiator, run your supply and return into it and see what happens. You may have the same problem I had, it runs good with the gas can then I hook everything back up and stall out just a couple of miles from home. You could also buy/borrow a $20 electric pump and see. 3.5 psi for our carbs. I'm rebuilding my motor right now and all that A/C stuff is in a box where it will stay, it still worked but you can't hardly find R-12 anymore so it's not going back on. I'll just be hot. Here's current thread on rebuilding the original pump, I have the cheap stamped one from chain auto parts. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/30761-rebuild-a-240z-mechanical-fuel-pump/#entry463989

Thanks for that article (pictures). That 1st orange one would be what mine looked like when new, minus the rocker stripes.

I know it's for wood but Murphy's Oil Soap works great on my cars interior. It's a mild soap and leaves a nice smell. Simple Green for the tough stuff.

Lumosity wants money, you are helping me for free.

Thanks guys. I always forget the simplest things, I have 12 intake valves in a coffee container. I put them in my bare N47 and put that on top of my 2.4 without a head gasket. They dropped and hung up on the carbon ring at the top of the bore, barely tapped them and they fell through. Then I put a used gasket on and they fell through as soon as I let the clothes pins loose.

Can someone PLEASE set me straight on which valves need extra clearance on an 83mm bore. How to modify says on page 15, "When 35mm exhaust valves are used on engines with 83-85mm bores and high lift cams, the bores must be relieved, or notched, in the area of the exhaust valves". I've read a lot about the intake valves hitting. So which is it? Both? Thanks for any input, Cliff

That's my favorite Led Zeppelin song! EDIT! One of my favorites, The Ocean's pretty good too, it be easier to name their bad ones than the good. I can't even think of one right now but I'm about to crank up Nobody's Fault RIGHT NOW. My neighbors are at work, work's for suckers. Na na na na na nobody's fault but my-eeeine

Listen to this noisy N42 on "another happy customers" car.

Holy guacamole! I've been focusing on the exhaust valves but it's actually the intakes that will hit. Thank goodness I did that to a spare block. I'll get the intakes out and see where they hit. I almost stepped in a big ole pile of doo doo.

Nissan has the turbo head bolts for less money, $60 for mine locally. PNs Nine of the shorter ones 11056-P7600 Five of the long ones 11059-P7600